UKC

Restricted Access

The south side of the gorge is privately owned by Cheddar Caves & Gorge and forms part of the Longleat Estate. It is not Open Access land under the CRoW Act (2000), unlike the National Trust owned land on the north side of the Gorge. Cheddar is unique in the fact that many of the crags are directly above a busy road which forms part of a major tourist attraction in the area. Unlike many crags, where a dropped piece of gear or rock is unlikely to have any impact on a member of the public, in Cheddar it has far greater potential to injure a visitor or damage a car. 

Because of this, for climbing on the south side the year is split into three seasons according to the number of visitors to the gorge.  During the busiest periods, all crags on the south side are closed, during the moderately busy periods only the restored routes (which have been cleared of loose rock as far as possible) on the south side are open, and during quiet periods all routes are open. These seasons are based on school and public holidays so change slightly every year.

Anyone climbing on the south side of Cheddar Gorge must carry civil liability cover of at least £10 million. This comes as standard with BMC or MCofS membership or can be organised separately. BMC/MCofS membership cards or details of your individual policy must be carried as proof of cover whilst climbing on the south side of the Gorge and the climbing warden and CC&G staff carry out frequent checks. Civil liability is also recommended for anyone climbing on the north side of the Gorge, but is not a requirement.

The BMC Cheddar Gorge Access Map has full details of which areas can be accessed during which periods. This should be considered required reading for any climber visiting the Gorge, regardless of which side or area you plan to climb on. A trial started in 2019 allows additional access to some areas so check the map before you visit as new year round access is available on three crags, but climbers need to demonstrate an ability to follow the agreed restrictions to make this a permanent lifting of restrictions.

The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015) – has a definitive list of restored routes on the south side as well as routes on the north side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015) – has a definitive list of restored routes on the south side as well as routes on the north side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

It has been reported that there is some confusion or misunderstanding of the use of the terms "restored" and "unrestored" routes in relation to access.  Restored routes are trad routes that were cleaned and equiped with lower off bolts, and sport routes that were  bolted or rebolted and equipped.  This work was carried out as part of the Cheddar Gorge Climbing project between 2003 - 2005.  All these routes are described in the current guide book  - Cheddar Gorge Climbs by Martin Crocker.  The access agreement  only includes routes found in this guide.  Some restored routes in the guide remain as winter only routes. This includes most of the multi pitch routes in the gorge. Full details are in the guide.  The climbs on the South side listed in previous guide books and not found in the current  book, including the previous CC guides are winter access only - 1st October -- 15th March.

Annual loose rock removal carried out by the landowners has nothing to do with access changes for climbers and has no bearing on on the climbing access agreements.  It is carried out entirely in the interest of safety for visitors to the gorge.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 16 March to 30 September

Reason: Public Safety

Due to the proximity of Cheddar's cliffs to the road and tourists below, there are complex access restritions which vary depending on the time of year and section of cliff on the south side of the Gorge. These restrictions are fully detailed in the BMC's Cheddar Gorge Access Map.

Please ensure you follow the access agreements detailed on the map to ensure that future access is able to continue. It is imperative that climbers self police otherwise access permission may be withdrawn by the landowner Cheddar Caves & Gorge.

First pitch to Doc Martins.
The only sport pitch on the lower half of the Warlord Wall.
Belay on long sling / wires below the first bolt.
Climb the steep lower section, moving right at about 7m and continue to a rest at the foot of a smooth slabby section. Climb the slab and pull into a slim groove. Climb the groove to the main break and move left to a belay / abseil station.

Ticklists

The road to paradise lost , Cheddar 7a Challenge , 7As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
ericinbristol 16 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Get on it! We found it best to approach up Shoot Gully, do the route then exit to the top up Shoot Gully (stunning view all the way to Glastonbory Tor etc) and walk back round and down: much more pleasant than descending Shoot Gully. As for the route itself, the rock is generally clean and sound, the moves great, the exposure fantastic (a Chinook helicopter flew below us!) and the bolting spaced but okay. Be.ay with a sling round a handy pinnacle at waist height. The LO (two rings) is hidden as it is bolted into the horizontal ledge. We were concerned that threading the rings would jam the rope, so we threaded an in situ krab on one ring and a in situ krab (glued/stuck shut) on a rope thread above the LO: the angles made the rope pull okay. Maybe take a leaver krab in case the one on the ring is taken. 3 stars. Best 7a in Cheddar, when all elements (including wild exposure) taken into account).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. Get on it! We found it best to approach up Shoot Gully, do the route then exit to the top up Shoot Gully (stunning view all the way to Glastonbory Tor etc) and walk back round and down: much more pleasant than descending Shoot Gully. As for the route itself, the rock is generally clean and sound, the moves great, the exposure fantastic (a Chinook helicopter flew below us!) and the bolting spaced but okay. Be.ay with a sling round a handy pinnacle at waist height. The LO (two rings) is hidden as it is bolted into the horizontal ledge. We were concerned that threading the rings would jam the rope, so we threaded an in situ krab on one ring and a in situ krab (glued/stuck shut) on a rope thread above the LO: the angles made the rope pull okay. Maybe take a leaver krab in case the one on the ring is taken. 3 stars. Best 7a in Cheddar, when all elements (including wild exposure) taken into account).

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pearl Harbour

Grade: 7a ***
(Brean Down)

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