Opinion is divided on this route: it is either one of the best climbs in the area or an overrated choss-fest! Either way, what is clear is that this climb would be a classic if the first hard pitch wasn't so dangerously loose. Despite being fairly short for the Dolomites, every form of climbing can be found in this compact little route.
To start, continue for 100m past the roofs of Via Italia '61 then cut back right up a grassy ledge to the right side of a small pillar.
1) IV-, 45m. Climb the corner formed by the pillar's right side then traverse a ledge and vegetated rock right to a stance just right of a yellow chimney.
2) IV+, 50m. Move left to the chimney and climb this, using the flake on the left side, to reach a grassy ramp. Follow this to reach a corner-chimney, and climb this to half height before moves left lead to a grassy ledge. Belay on the left.
3) IV, 20m. Traverse left on the ledge then on good holds to a stance on the top of a small pillar.
4) VI-, 25m. Climb a loose yellow crack just right of the stance, pull through a roof with difficulty then ignore the line of pitons above and instead traverse right to a hanging belay.
5) VI, 20m. Climb a crack and a flake rightwards on loose rock and belay below a corner.
6) VI, 30m. Climb the corner with superb well-protected climbing to a stance just below the roof.
7) VII, 10m. Move right under the roof on excellent holds then pull through it to the left. Climb direct to reach easier ground leading to the terrace. © Rockfax
Zeni, Trotter 1960
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
plus 1:20 on guide book time
great climb, looks chossy, but is solid and the climbing is superb
Very over-rated climb in my opinion, lots of rambling loose pitches, followed by hard loose pitches and finally a couple of reasonable ones. Got hit by a heavy thunder storm on the crux overhang which might be why I don't have fond memories of this one....other routes we did were much better....
|Ed Babs||23/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
the best climb we did in the dolomites - the final 4 pitches are absolutely amazing and culminate in a jug haul across a 3m roof 250m up. breath taking.