The easiest route on the face and consequently a popular excursion for newcomers to trad climbing. Generally good rock and a logical line.
Start on the right side of the split in the face, just right of Via Irma.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb a crack, initially easy then becoming steeper, to a stance on the left.
2) IV, 30m. Continue in the same line following the continuation crack.
3) IV-, 35m. Continue in the crack then follow the corner-chimney above.
4) IV-, 35m. Aim for the roof above, climbing the right of three wide cracks, then move diagonally right below the roof to a yellow niche.
5) IV, 40m. Climb direct up a corner-chimney, overcoming an bulge on good holds, to a stance on a ledge.
6) IV, 40m. Climb direct from the belay and enter a narrow chimney crack. Climb this - sometimes wet - then exit left for a couple of moves before moving back into the chimney. Continue more easily on the left to a ledge.
7) IV, 35m. Climb the cracked rock above, moving right. Overcome a bulge and continue in the crack before making a short traverse right to the stance in a niche below a ramp.
8) III+, 30m. Climb the vegetated ramp more easily.
9) III, 30m. Continue in the same line.
10) II, 25m. Easy scrambling leads to the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax
Del Torso, Lezuo 1935
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Tom F Harding||?/Sep||AltLd O/S||
Rockfax guide has the grade of the first pitch marked wrong - it's IV but in the description down as IV+. Pitch 5 is probably the crux, with steep climbing on slightly loose rock.
|ian d f||?/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
|Rich God 3||16/Aug/13||AltLd||
Margaret G, Kate R
Nice route, thrutchy crux.
|Fiona Reid||04/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
Lovely route, given D- in the local guide but HS 4a seems fair enough. Led odd pitches.
|The Bad Cough||12/Aug/09||AltLd O/S|
CAI Camposampiero (PD), 9 corso roccia
2 x Students
|John HW||11/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
Instructing on Garys Exped
2 x Students
|John HW||?/May/02||AltLd O/S||
After third attemp of climbing this route in awful conditions finnaly got up it.