A direct on Insectitude and relatively popular. Well protected.1) 4c, 9m. Climb the wide crack to a small overhang. Make a long reach to gain good holds and jams. Pull up to the large belay ledge at the fault-line just above.2) 4a, 20m. Climb the chimney and corner crack above, moving left just below the top to avoid loose ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start from the left of the boulder filled bay. Climb the wide crack past a difficult move as it turn to a short corner. Possible belay on ledge above but better done in one pitch. Continue up chimney groove above and up wide corner to left. Step left at top to avoid doubtful blocks. Stake belays far back.
K Turner, G A Jenkin 1984
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Led pitch 2, where the start is the hardest bit.
|Ian MK||31/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
|brian watson||03/Aug/14||2nd rpt||
bob mott, scott titt
|The Ivanator||06/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
Really good route, I liked the initial crack that seemed made for beefy fist jams, the upper romp was great too.
|Sophie Nunn||10/Jun/13||2nd rpt|
Think I made hard work of this one. Wet and greasy and needed so big gear for the bottom which I did not have!!!! Some loose blocks at top. Climbed as one pitch.
Led P1. Awkward move into the thin upper crack.
|Julian Prieto||18/Nov/12||Lead O/S|
in 1 pitch
The move out of the groove was strenuous and needs to be dispatched quickly, but it's a short lived affair. The second pitch wasn't the romp home I expected (at 4a) but a really nice route all the same.
|Sophie Nunn||15/Apr/12||Lead O/S|
|Andre Clarke||15/Apr/12||AltLd O/S||
No way a 4C move
I lead first, hard pull out of the wide crack