Saxon*** E2 5c
[Descending, chuffed, after ticking Saxon, 3 kb]Climbs the wall and hanging crack R. of the Great Flake of Central Buttress. Start immediately L. of Moss Gill. 1)5a. Climb the corner and rib to the triangular overhang. Traverse L. for 6m then climb the wall to slabs and grassy ledges. Belay up R. below a short corner. 2)5c. Climb the short corner and move L. to step up onto the wall. Climb this trending R. to a ledge on the arete (gear). Traverse back L. until below the crack and climb up into it. Follow it and the groove above to a ledge and belay. 3)5b. Climb the awkward mossy corner crack behind the ledge to slabs. Follow a second corner crack and pull out R. at the top to ledges. Step up onto the final wall and move L. to the arete. Climb this to the top.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?.

Photo: Descending, chuffed, after ticking Saxon © Stig
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 106 logbooks, and on 69 wishlists.

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Nick Jones

Great intimidating 2nd pitch
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Ben Ochner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14

A great variety of styles on this superb route. Super hot day! Very glad we were in the shade. Finished off the day with a refreshing swim in Wast Water. Led p2,p3 :)
petegunn - AltLd - 25/Jul/14 with Davina

mike lawrence? - AltLd - 24/Jul/14 with Liam Chalkie Halsey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14

Bollocks
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Doug the thug

Hidden - AltLd dog - 09/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/14

Led 1st pitch that cuts out from easy ramp up to CB ledge, as per 2024 guidebook. Led final pitch too. Ace route
MONKEY78 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Ste Brock

did this and ichabod. a great way to spend the longest day of the year.
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Drew

P1 and P3
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with ferdia

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - AltLd dog - 22/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/13

Sardien - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Rich Gentry

Hard, pumpy, crimpy, a diagonal crack in a heroic position and an airy finish. What a climb! Right on my limit!
StuartCJones - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jul/13

Amazing. Lead P2.
GPN - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Shaw Brown

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Lead p2. Well good!
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with chris todd

Led P1&P3. These pitches were better than expected, added with the awesome P2 makes for a top class route.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with George North

2nd pitch still a bit green and slimey, had to give up and traverse off right as top crack was too wet...
buzby78 - AltLd - 08/Jul/13 with Jess

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Mal Scott

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

absolutely magnificent. Been on my ticklist for 25 years and worth the wait. Bone Dry.
Dave Rumney - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with Tanya Milner

brilliant route! The second pitch is bold but steady. Quality.
a_hein - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Sam C

jess - AltLd - Jun/13 with neill

P1 and P3
Andrew Wilson - AltLd - 27/May/12 with jon stewart

Hidden - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Tremendous climbing,no chalk to follow so great experience. Bold but positive holds. Probably one of the best E2's in the UK
cooperman - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Graham Iles

Lead the first and last pitches.
Graham Iles - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Neil Cooper

Brilliant route. Wet in the crack and corners. This time I led pitches 1+3, (led pitch 2 25 years ago).
robinsi197 - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2011

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with misha nepogodiev

Wasn't particularly cold but suffered from numb yellow fingers from the outset. Should have spent longer warming them up after P1 but decided to go for it on P2 and see what happens. What happened was that the fingery traverse up and right proved impossible on numb fingers, so spent a while getting some feeling back into them while stood on a small ledge above a nest of uninspiring small gear. The traverse was fine in the end. Quite bold on this middle section going up right and then back left to the crack. Fingers were almost ok by the time I got to the crack. This was wet and slimey in places, which didn't help given that it's hard E2 anyway. Spent a while trying to do the initial moves to get into the crack, could see several ways but all seemed precarious. Finally figured out a sequence that wasn't too hard after liberally dabbing a wet hold with the chalk bag. Just as well the good hold higher up was pretty good as it was also pretty slimey. Out came the chalk bag again. The crack refused to give up but so did I! The highlight was awkward jamming towards the top of the crack, which wouldn't have been that bad if it hadn't been slippery. Relieved to get dry holds out to the right at the top. Enjoyed seconding the technical P3. A good route worthy of three stars but can't really see it as one of the best E2s in the country. Led P2. Five hours on the route, mostly due to the length of time it took to do P2.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Tim Newton

I led pitch 1 in 1976 as Central Buttress Direct. That was the first time I ever saw chalk and I assumed it was bird shit! No chalk at all this time which made for some interesting route finding on the thin wall. The slanting flared crack (always a little wet)is the highlight. A magnificent middle pitch which would easily warrant **** in Scotland. Easily the best E2 in the English mountains. Pitch 3 is quite tricky too.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Dan Moore

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/10

datoon - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with K

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10

khawk - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with DT

Hidden - 2010

Pretty damn awesome, excellent climbing from bottom to top. Best route of a brilliant weekend. As the guide says the crux crack is tricky when wet and quite bold below this too...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Rik

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Adam Gill

Seymore Butt - 2009

Followed Luke, Great route.
IanJackson - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/08 with luketheape

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/08 with Ian Jackson

tuftynick - 2008

John Kettle - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/07

frost - AltLd - Jun/07 with D Garry N Griffiths

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - May/07 with Dave, Simon

mux - AltLd - 2007 with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths

Bella - 2nd O/S - Aug/06 with Chris

Awesome climb. "Best E2 in the country" according to some guide who was on the crag at the same time as us.
fizzy_elephant - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/06 with stu

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/06

superb!
Tom Phillips - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/06 with Jarek

Stig - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Bern - 2006

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 2006 with Dave Morris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/05

piken - 2002

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

whispering nic - Jul/00 with Al Reid

craig matheson - Lead - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/96

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/95

struggled on pitch 3
rob.grafton - AltLd - 31/Jul/95 with Bruce

andybirtwistle - Lead - 30/Jul/95 with Graham Hindle

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Fabulous. Crack pitch wet, as always.
Grezza - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/94

Andy Say - Lead - 04/Sep/93

lead P3
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

keefe - 29/Jul/91

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Jul/90 with The General (P.Henderson)

andy gittins - Lead - Jul/90

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/89

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 17/Jun/89 with Perric Crellin

Led pitch 1 and 3, John got the crux which was wet
David Smith - AltLd - 21/May/89 with john stanger

Mike Owen - 19/Jun/88 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/86 with Frank Wilkinson

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/86

Have climbed this route three times, as it is one of my favourites. On 18.06.89 with Mick Mason and again in1991 with Barry Roberts.
Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/84 with Eric Marsden

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/84

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1984 with Mike Lynch, Various

Bob - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/83 with M. Lynch

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/77

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Voting
Total votes cast 82
hard E30 of 27
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