Rockfax Description
18m. A butch outing that is 'only E2' for those who have done it a few times. From the sloping ledge in the corner, pull through the initial bulges (hard for the short) and hand traverse left to the point where strenuous moves up the inverted Y gain the jamming crack; sprint up this to the pedestal. Finish up the short crack above, or more fittingly out right in a glorious position. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
"A butch outing where the guidebook writers need to learn that they're grading for the onsight and comments like "only E2 if you've done it a few times" are irrelevant nonsense." 11-08-14

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Rockfall Northern England top 50.

Mike Todd 22/May Lead RP


with Jim Simpson
Gabe Oliver 22/May Lead dnf

Not a great effort. Shut down by drizzle, weak arms, low energy or a combination of all 3. Good to get on and have a go but definitely need to be stronger for steep Gritstone routes at this grade. Next time :)

Graeme Hammond 14/May Lead O/S

Smashed it (if i do say so myself), and fantastic climbing that didn't disappoint. Felt more like E2 5b/c max with easy but steep jams but probably harder for the short.

with Matt
kyaizawa 08/May Lead dog
with Rowan Chesmer
Tom McCabe 08/May Lead O/S

Yes! Less solid jams than expected, only just got through the crux. Needed some serious effort.

JRJones 08/May 2nd dog

very impressive lead from Tom.

Mike Todd 07/May Lead dnf

Couldn't make the jam work.. Be back to try a layback!

Will Hunt 04/May Lead dnf

Another failure.

scarmichael 09/Apr Lead dog

Finally worked out the crux jam sequence, will be back with tape to repeat clean!

with Steve Wooton
Hidden 25/Mar Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd dog
robertmctague 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
theomoore 25/Oct/15 Lead RP

Really pleased with this one. Found it really hard as I'm not much of a jammer. Tried it ground up for a while, then dogged the shit of out of it before leading clean.

with Roisin
tim newton 11/Oct/15 Lead β

Rach had just had a go and then stripped it on ab, but I took exactly the gear she had placed and she gave me good short persons beta for the crux too

Rachel Slater 11/Oct/15 Lead RP

Had a rest on the crux the first time as I initially couldn't figure out what to do. Did it second go with some sneaky beta, placing all the gear again.

JenShelley 03/Oct/15 2nd dog
with Mike
MichaelGallimore 03/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Seconded this route 3 years ago. Sat on the gear on first attempt, lowered, abbed off to retrieve gear then led clean second go. Still felt really hard! I got pumped in my back.

Alex Winter 26/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Oh for god's sake.

with Jake, Chris, Nat, Matthew, and Alison
PeteH 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Rob Boyle
robman 18/Jul/15 2nd dog

Jamming!! Dont jam..lay back.

david morse 09/Jul/15 Lead RP

Fell off at the top of the triangle first time up. Managed to fluke it second go, just

with Dragon
Jono_LS16 13/May/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead G/U
willackers 21/Apr/15 2nd β

Followed Mills up it after his near death fall. Gear everywhere!

with Tom Mills
farmus21 27/Mar/15 2nd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 27/Mar/15 Lead β

Last of the three. some of the best on grit. Arms were feeling the steepness. Didn't help that i was hanging about trying to do the crux reach wrong until a helpful chap who was walking past yelled up some beta. cheers.

with james G
phil64 ??/2015 -
Ed carrigan 12/Oct/14 Lead

second go

jacobjacob 01/Oct/14 Solo rpt

Never thought I would solo this when I first lead it 2 years ago, amazing how much easier it is when you know how to jam!

Olli-C 27/Aug/14 Lead RP

Proper buzzing! 1 down 2 to go.

with Chris Waddle
Hidden 24/Aug/14 -
Hannes B 22/Aug/14 Lead dnf

***king had it mate!! right hand came out too early, tool! nice lob, great classic.. thanx for the belay!

with Dan S
ian d f 20/Aug/14 2nd β

easy when you've seen it climbed!

pearson9596 20/Aug/14 Lead dog
PaulTanton 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead dog
ashtond6 14/Jun/14 2nd
Olli-C 12/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Pete Harris, Swanny
Olli-C 14/May/14 2nd dog

Had to rest under the move. Lost the onsight but now i can just have lead attempts until its ticked. Brilliant route.

with Swanny
Phill Mitch 14/May/14 2nd dog

one rest again in the same place!

with mick
Hidden 02/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/14 2nd
Nez ??/2014 -
robertmctague ??/2014 Lead G/U

Ground up, second go.

Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 25/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Dan McKinlay
PaulTanton 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt

This is so good.

Rhys Macallister 21/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/13 Lead dog
Apharri 08/Sep/13 Lead β
with Jim Gayler
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead G/U
GPN 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S


with Neil Harvey
Nick Russell 17/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't get to the good jam from the top of the 'Y'. Or maybe I should have been able to jam the flare... Need more practice!

Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead RP
oread 13/Aug/13 2nd dog


feilx 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Floris
dannyboy83 11/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Dan B
climberchristy 21/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Pleased to lead this clean after a few previous attempts in recent weeks. Crux is very reachy for the relatively short like me. More like 6a. Totally safe route though and totally briliant! 4 stars!!

with Keith Swainson
cobweb 16/Jul/13 2nd rpt

As the temperature cooled in the evening ,conditions were perfect

with Roger Waterworth
MikeLeeds 04/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Neil Redgrave
CragDog 15/May/13 Lead rpt
MeMeMe 07/May/13 Lead
with Tom
MichaelGallimore 21/Apr/13 2nd dog

Jams, stamina, quick thinking and strength are useful on this climb.

with Maria, Stephan
cobweb 13/Apr/13 Lead
with Roger Waterworth
henry peter jenkins 02/Apr/13 Lead dog

this was easy where i thought it would be hard and hard where i thought it would be easy(the middle crack gets bear). great climb though. cant wait to go back and climb it again. proper.

with robbie jenkins, paul jones
Andy Peak 1 05/Jan/13 Lead

Had a rest on the rope as i triyed the hard move the rong way by going to far left, now i no all the holds must go back for a clean lead as this is probably the best gritstone climbe iv tried:-)

with H washbrook
petegunn 19/Oct/12 Lead

A big move from the top of the Y to the good jams.

with Bob, Owain, Davina
Hidden 19/Oct/12 2nd dog
a13x 14/Oct/12 2nd dnf
with Matt Harle, Matthew Gibbings
Matt Harle 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Gibbs
MeMeMe 23/Sep/12 Lead
with Amy
Mike_Hayes 15/Sep/12 Lead dog

Gutted - fell off the top jams, thought I could jam....

GeoffG 04/Sep/12 Lead rpt

just as good as i remember it. easy if you know how!

with tim lowe
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead dog
DavidR 08/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Got to the Y-cracks...placed some gear in the crucial hand-hold...faffed around...rested...faffed around...got pumped...backed off.

cobweb 28/Jul/12 Lead
with Roger Waterworth
SPD224 26/Jul/12 2nd
with Martin Smith
Rockwarrior ?/Jul/12 Lead

great stuff

Rockwarrior ?/Jul/12 Lead

great stuff

Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Dave Warburton 24/Jun/12 Lead dog

The 'jug' that you pull up to the jam with felt greasy/warm/polished (insert excuse here). Reckon doing this last meant the wall got warm in the sun. Quick rest on gear, chalk and brush of jug and the move went ok. Didn't actually think this was that good, compared to the other two (sour grapes?). Oh well!

with Conor
robertmichaeladams 02/Jun/12 Lead

3rd go - fine once you know the good jam

with Andy H
a_hein 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
design crisis 21/May/12 Lead dog
with Phil
barni 16/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Tapper
jacobjacob 29/Feb/12 Lead RP

Second go ground up... Must, learn, to, JAM.

funsized 30/Oct/11 2nd dog

Absolutely shattered! Couldn't make the big move to the dodgy jam. Blame it on illness?

with Jake Lloyd
jacobjlloyd 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Loved this route, but the crux is very reachy. Likely tech 6a for the short. Soft touch if you're average height though, and aren't afraid of flared jams. Since when have grit jamming routes been overgraded? Is Yorkshire going soft?

with Jonny
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger 25/Sep/11 Lead dog

Fell of the jamming crux, then took me a few goes... Good jamming practice.

pwilkie 24/Sep/11 2nd dog

Struggled to do crux move and eventually pulled up on cam. Will have to practice left hand jam to be able to do this.

with Joe Banner
pipof747 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S


gforce 20/Sep/11 Lead

Fell out of the jam crack at my first attempt. Got well pumped trying to figure out how to reach it. Managed to recover enough for a successful go later but with the gear still in place to below the crack.

with Dave O
akhughes 15/Sep/11 Lead β
beds74 03/Sep/11 2nd

Got to last crack, and felt weak...lowered. Tricky on sight slopy hand jam upto crack, big move!

Hidden 03/Sep/11 -
AlistairB 31/Aug/11 Lead dnf

3 ground up goes, made it to the Y each time but found it very difficult to get the jam to stick for the move to the crack. Finally made the move on my 3rd go but fell getting my other hand into the crack through bad footwork. Every bit as good as I expected though, will be back ASAP to finish it off.

with Lisa
Hidden 19/Aug/11 2nd dog
willbatho 11/Aug/11 TR

part of spa training

Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead dog
JRae 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Had a bash on petes gear at the end of the day. Must come back and have a go when its cooler / i'm fresh. Fun route.

MeMeMe 06/Jun/11 2nd

Just can't do the crux by jamming. So instead, left hand pulling on the top of the left fork, right foot high right, left foot on not great foot hold between the cracks then right hand up to below the jam, twist around into a layback, do something with your feet then left hand up into a secure jam.

with Pete
Phill Mitch 25/May/11 Lead dog

Pumped out at y,lowered off,pulled ropes, tried again,pumped out, rested on gear, managed crux fresh after a rest on rope. Downer.

with mick
pudding 24/Apr/11 Lead dog

awesome route but i put too much gear in it, had to take a rest before the crux move, even then took lots of moving up having a go then coming down again before i finally got it!

with john phethean
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
Jack Loftus 27/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Nick
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Steve Crowe ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead
with Helen Wise
NaomiHart 17/Oct/10 2nd dnf
PeteH 17/Oct/10 Lead dog

I was expecting sustained steep jamming, so was a bit surprised by the hard, reachy move to gain the decent jams up above the inverted Y. Needed a rest. Bah. Excellent climbing, though.

with Ursula Balderson, Naomi Hart
Jon Read 08/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/10 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead
James Oakes 28/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Knackered just before the crack, should go next time.

Jack00 27/May/10 Lead
with Olly
Hidden 24/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 24/May/10 Lead dog
simon kimber 24/May/10 Lead

fell off laybacking the crack. pulled the ropes and got it next go on solid jams

with Rob Sandercock
Tez29 24/May/10 Lead RP

Excellent route, got 2nd go, after nearly flashing it the day before. Tough crux reaching jams.

with Ivan
Hidden 03/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Nov/09 Lead dog
Reaver2k 12/Aug/09 2nd dog

Got told to do this when Lisa couldn't make the move out over the roof, wasn't sure if I could either having witnessed Mikes immense span between the good holds leaving me to use poor ones. Up the corner with ease, a really deep mono lets you switch hands. Turn out right, reach up left as far along the roof flake as you can, and then shuffle it along. Eventually got a decent hold, toe hooked and matched it with my right hand. Cut loose and got my feet back on quickly. Swung along a bit more then heel up into the flake. Reached up up the cracks a bit more but had to rest as was really pumped, about the same stage mike got to. Went a bit further up, tried reaching straight up to the jams in the crack far above - too far. Then got some beta from Mike to get a (excruciating) cammed fist jam in the hold just down left of the jamming crack. Then reach up with that, which allowed me to reach a good jam in the crack, I proceeded to plug up as quickly as I could before I ran out of strength, up into the niche. Then the 5 star finish - brilliant. If I had a lot more stamina I could lead this I think.

with Michael Watson
Marti999 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
markalmack ?/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd dog
andy gravestock 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S

great climbing through the roof watched allex up to this point then he fell off so had know knolage about the rest off the route but a really good battle...

with allex
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead
DavidEvans ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

Fell off three times on three seperate attempts.... oh dear

with Toby Dunn, John Helme, Jules Vulliamy
Sean_J 01/May/09 Lead O/S

Went up and down to the Y a few times then just went for it, easy when you find the jam!

with Timmy
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with AJ
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/08 -
duzinga 15/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Pete Harris
dj_brigham05 08/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Dammit! not my day at all!

MeMeMe 29/Jul/08 Lead dnf


with Andy
joe larner 09/May/08 Lead rpt

Felt fine today. Much more relaxed than first time so i could enjoy it more.

Ram MkiV 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S

'retro onsight' - dogged up it as a hapless second after reeve 6(?) years ago before I could jam or know what i was doing really. Still felt pretty tough today though - must practice jamming!

with Tommy M
joe larner 19/Apr/08 Lead dog

Couln't reach the Jam first time. Went for it after a quick rest on the gear and it felt fine. Despite not doing it clean feel alot more confident about trad after hardly doing any for a ages. Awesome jamming. Seconded it to get the gear and felt fine. ill be back.

IanJackson 23/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Felt really easy and felt really strong and confident(even in the gale) until... I just couldn't reach the Jam above the inverted Y. Went for a rest. Still couldn't reach it..! Will be interesting to get back on this in a couple of weeks.

with Big Ian
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
Boy ??/2008 -
Will Hunt 28/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Thought I was starting up Great Western! Got past the traverse neath the roof and just under the jamming crack beyond that.

Hidden 28/Oct/07 2nd
ali_robb ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/06 Lead rpt
Gus 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S
shark 11/Feb/06 Lead rpt

Easy for grade. All time great hand jamming.

with Bruce Woodley
oldmanrivers ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
WB 01/Aug/05 Lead β
with Jim
pezzerrr 19/May/04 Lead G/U
Hidden 10/Apr/03 Lead RP
Nigel Coe 22/Aug/02 -
with Tim Dunsby
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 25/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with anna
Chris Reid 11/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Rob Muirhead
ando227 ?/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with pete
Ian Jones ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Scorching hot day. A hard jam move, the rest is jugs. E2 6a surely?

with John Kirk
Bug ??/2000 -
jhardwick ??/2000 Lead dog


Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 24/Apr/99 Lead O/S
GeoffG 28/Mar/99 Lead
Mike Owen 13/May/98 -
with Mark Hounsley
Jon Read ?/May/98 Lead O/S
with Tanya Holdsworth
jameshiggins ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/97 2nd rpt
steveb2006 05/Jul/97 Lead

Pleased to do this ok

with Rob Gambles
Laramadness 01/Jun/97 TR
uphillnow 12/Aug/96 Lead O/S

led the climb variously in 1980's but have one ascent in 1996 which I recorded

Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
innes ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Craig
Dave Musgrove 04/Apr/96 2nd rpt

Nigel led

with Andy Wild, Nigel Baker
goi.ashmore 19/Jun/95 Lead dog

1 slip at the top!

with Matt Hirst
John Southworth 18/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Andy MacNae
Hidden 09/May/95 Lead
craig h ?/May/95 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
Dave Musgrove 30/Aug/93 Lead

With left hand finish

with Nigel Baker
rob.grafton 18/May/93 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Dave Musgrove 01/Oct/92 Lead rpt
with Nigel Baker
Dave Musgrove 09/Sep/92 -
with Nigel Baker
andybirtwistle 12/Jul/92 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Rich Kirby 23/Jun/92 Lead dog
with Andy Mackay
rob.grafton 20/May/92 Lead
with Bruce
nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/91 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove 29/Jul/91 2nd
with Nigel Baker
charlesmfrench 07/Jul/91 2nd RP
with Larry Parkes
Dave Musgrove 22/May/90 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/May/90 Lead

After a number of previous failures. A major breakthrough

with Dad
The Jazz Butcher ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 09/May/89 Lead
Bob 29/Oct/88 Lead O/S

Short and pumpy with a weird crux move.

with P.Cox
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
MikeYouCanClimb 03/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Glyn Appleyard
Hidden ??/1986 Lead dog
Pete Pozman 18/Sep/85 TR dog
with Nigel Baker
Chris Craggs ??/1985 Lead
Mark Kemball 15/May/83 Lead
with Chris Calow
Dave Musgrove 20/Apr/82 Lead β
Dave Musgrove 13/Jun/81 Lead β
Dave Musgrove 04/Aug/79 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1976 Lead O/S
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set