UKC Logbook - 'Western Front'

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North Yorkshire > Almscliff >

Western Front

E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Leaf Climb

Great Western >>

13m. A butch outing that is 'only E2' for those who have done it a few times. From the sloping ledge in the corner, pull through the initial bulges (hard for the short) and hand traverse left to the point where strenuous moves up the inverted Y gain the jamming crack; sprint up this to the pedestal. Finish up the short crack above, or more fittingly out right in a glorious position. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics.

Photo: Western front © Gareth H
View all 20 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 149 logbooks, and on 51 wishlists.

CragDog - Lead rpt - 15/May/13

MeMeMe - Lead - 07/May/13 with Tom

Jams, stamina, quick thinking and strength are useful on this climb.
MichaelGallimore - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Maria, Stephan

cobweb - Lead - 13/Apr/13 with Roger Waterworth

this was easy where i thought it would be hard and hard where i thought it would be easy(the middle crack gets bear). great climb though. cant wait to go back and climb it again. proper.
henry peter jenkins - Lead dog - 02/Apr/13 with robbie jenkins, paul jones

Had a rest on the rope as i triyed the hard move the rong way by going to far left, now i no all the holds must go back for a clean lead as this is probably the best gritstone climbe iv tried:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 05/Jan/13 with H washbrook

A big move from the top of the Y to the good jams.
petegunn - Lead - 19/Oct/12 with Bob, Owain, Davina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/12

a13x - 2nd dnf - 14/Oct/12 with Matt Harle, Matthew Gibbings

stonemonkey159 - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Matt Gibbs

MeMeMe - Lead - 23/Sep/12 with Amy

Gutted - fell off the top jams, thought I could jam....
wolverine - Lead dog - 15/Sep/12 with Ben Burns

just as good as i remember it. easy if you know how!
GeoffG - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/12 with tim lowe

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Sep/12

Got to the Y-cracks...placed some gear in the crucial hand-hold...faffed around...rested...faffed around...got pumped...backed off.
DavidR - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/12 with Holly Adamthwaite

cobweb - Lead - 28/Jul/12 with Roger Waterworth

SPD224 - 2nd - 26/Jul/12 with Martin Smith

great stuff
Rockwarrior - Lead - Jul/12

Fell at the last hurdle. Very greasy in the sun, but I really must learn to jam!
conorcussell - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/12

The 'jug' that you pull up to the jam with felt greasy/warm/polished (insert excuse here). Reckon doing this last meant the wall got warm in the sun. Quick rest on gear, chalk and brush of jug and the move went ok. Didn't actually think this was that good, compared to the other two (sour grapes?). Oh well!
Dave Warburton - Lead dog - 24/Jun/12 with Conor

3rd go - fine once you know the good jam
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 02/Jun/12 with Andy H

design crisis - Lead dog - 21/May/12 with Phil

barni - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Tapper

Second go ground up... Must, learn, to, JAM.
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 29/Feb/12

Absolutely shattered! Couldn't make the big move to the dodgy jam. Blame it on illness?
funsized - 2nd dog - 30/Oct/11 with Jake Lloyd

Loved this route, but the crux is very reachy. Likely tech 6a for the short. Soft touch if you're average height though, and aren't afraid of flared jams. Since when have grit jamming routes been overgraded? Is Yorkshire going soft?
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Oct/11

Fell of the jamming crux, then took me a few goes... Good jamming practice.
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 25/Sep/11

Struggled to do crux move and eventually pulled up on cam. Will have to practice left hand jam to be able to do this.
pwilkie - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/11 with Joe Banner

Hard
pipof747 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

Fell out of the jam crack at my first attempt. Got well pumped trying to figure out how to reach it. Managed to recover enough for a successful go later but with the gear still in place to below the crack.
gforce - Lead - 20/Sep/11 with Dave O

akhughes - Lead β - 15/Sep/11

Got to last crack, and felt weak...lowered. Tricky on sight slopy hand jam upto crack, big move!
beds74 - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with neil mackay

Hidden - 03/Sep/11

3 ground up goes, made it to the Y each time but found it very difficult to get the jam to stick for the move to the crack. Finally made the move on my 3rd go but fell getting my other hand into the crack through bad footwork. Every bit as good as I expected though, will be back ASAP to finish it off.
AlistairB - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/11 with Lisa

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Aug/11

part of spa training
willbatho - TR - 11/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11

Had a bash on petes gear at the end of the day. Must come back and have a go when its cooler / i'm fresh. Fun route.
JRae - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/11 with Pete Graham

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/11

Just can't do the crux by jamming. So instead, left hand pulling on the top of the left fork, right foot high right, left foot on not great foot hold between the cracks then right hand up to below the jam, twist around into a layback, do something with your feet then left hand up into a secure jam.
MeMeMe - 2nd - 06/Jun/11 with Pete

Pumped out at y,lowered off,pulled ropes, tried again,pumped out, rested on gear, managed crux fresh after a rest on rope. Downer.
Phill Mitch - Lead dog - 25/May/11 with mick

awesome route but i put too much gear in it, had to take a rest before the crux move, even then took lots of moving up having a go then coming down again before i finally got it!
pudding - Lead dog - 24/Apr/11 with john phethean

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11

Jack Loftus - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/11 with Nick

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

NaomiHart - 2nd dnf - 17/Oct/10 with Peter Hart

I was expecting sustained steep jamming, so was a bit surprised by the hard, reachy move to gain the decent jams up above the inverted Y. Needed a rest. Bah. Excellent climbing, though.
PeteH - Lead dog - 17/Oct/10 with Ursula Balderson, Naomi Hart

Jon Read - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with andi turner

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/10

Knackered just before the crack, should go next time.
James Oakes - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/10 with Brad Cowley

Jack00 - Lead - 27/May/10 with Olly

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/10

fell off laybacking the crack. pulled the ropes and got it next go on solid jams
simon kimber - Lead - 24/May/10 with Rob Sandercock

Excellent route, got 2nd go, after nearly flashing it the day before. Tough crux reaching jams.
Tez29 - Lead RP - 24/May/10 with Ivan

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Nov/09

Got told to do this when Lisa couldn't make the move out over the roof, wasn't sure if I could either having witnessed Mikes immense span between the good holds leaving me to use poor ones. Up the corner with ease, a really deep mono lets you switch hands. Turn out right, reach up left as far along the roof flake as you can, and then shuffle it along. Eventually got a decent hold, toe hooked and matched it with my right hand. Cut loose and got my feet back on quickly. Swung along a bit more then heel up into the flake. Reached up up the cracks a bit more but had to rest as was really pumped, about the same stage mike got to. Went a bit further up, tried reaching straight up to the jams in the crack far above - too far. Then got some beta from Mike to get a (excruciating) cammed fist jam in the hold just down left of the jamming crack. Then reach up with that, which allowed me to reach a good jam in the crack, I proceeded to plug up as quickly as I could before I ran out of strength, up into the niche. Then the 5 star finish - brilliant. If I had a lot more stamina I could lead this I think.
Reaver2k - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/09 with Michael Watson

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09

markalmack - Lead rpt - Aug/09 with gregg capon

Hidden - 2nd dog - Aug/09

great climbing through the roof watched allex up to this point then he fell off so had know knolage about the rest off the route but a really good battle...
andy gravestock - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09 with allex

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/09

Fell off three times on three seperate attempts.... oh dear
MONKEY78 - Lead dog - Jun/09 with Toby Dunn, John Helme, Jules Vulliamy

Went up and down to the Y a few times then just went for it, easy when you find the jam!
Sean_J - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Timmy

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09 with AJ

Seymore Butt - 2009

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009

Toby Dunn - Sep/08

duzinga - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/08 with Pete Harris

Dammit! not my day at all!
dj_brigham05 - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/08 with Chris Thain

Bah.
MeMeMe - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/08 with Andy

Felt fine today. Much more relaxed than first time so i could enjoy it more.
joe larner - Lead rpt - 09/May/08

'retro onsight' - dogged up it as a hapless second after reeve 6(?) years ago before I could jam or know what i was doing really. Still felt pretty tough today though - must practice jamming!
Belier - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08 with Tommy M

Couln't reach the Jam first time. Went for it after a quick rest on the gear and it felt fine. Despite not doing it clean feel alot more confident about trad after hardly doing any for a ages. Awesome jamming. Seconded it to get the gear and felt fine. ill be back.
joe larner - Lead dog - 19/Apr/08

Felt really easy and felt really strong and confident(even in the gale) until... I just couldn't reach the Jam above the inverted Y. Went for a rest. Still couldn't reach it..! Will be interesting to get back on this in a couple of weeks.
IanJackson - Lead dnf - 23/Feb/08 with Big Ian

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2008

Boy - 2008

Thought I was starting up Great Western! Got past the traverse neath the roof and just under the jamming crack beyond that.
Will Hunt - Lead dnf - 28/Oct/07 with Dave Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Oct/07

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Oct/06

Gus - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06 with andi elizabeth turner

Easy for grade. All time great hand jamming.
shark - Lead rpt - 11/Feb/06 with Bruce Woodley

oldmanrivers - Lead - 2006

WB - Lead β - 01/Aug/05 with Jim

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/02

shoulders - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/02 with anna

ando227 - 2nd O/S - Aug/01 with pete

Scorching hot day. A hard jam move, the rest is jugs. E2 6a surely?
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jul/01 with John Kirk