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|Cumbria > Gimmer Crag >|
|Carpetbagger|| VS 4b|
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|3 pitches. An interesting route with some fine climbing on good rock, worth tracking down. From the gearing up spot for The Crack walk up the gully for about 20m to a large rock which creates two (normally) dry waterfalls. Scramble (rope recommended) up from the right hand “waterfall” to a steep field then up into a grassy bay. Belay 5m below small pinnacle which may have some tat on it. Above is a prominent groove with a slabby left wall and a sharp arête to its right. This is Godiva Groove.
Pitch 1. (4c) Climb diagonally right to reach a ledge right of the groove then up the overhung slab till it is possible with difficulty to gain a slim tapering groove on the right. Climb this to reach an optional stance below a slabby wall right of the sharp arête. Climb the wall pleasantly till a difficult traverse right is possible passing a dubious flake to belay below a large overhang which caps a grassy gully.
Pitch 2. (4c) Climb diagonally left below some small overhangs. Just before reaching the arête overlooking Godiva Groove climb onto a slab and continue with some difficulty up a groove line to belay in a corner below a dirty looking mossy line (Bridge’s Variation Finish to Hiatus). Belay shared with Hiatus
Pitch 3. (4c) An exposed and exciting finish. From the bottom of the mossy line hand-traverse out right below the overlap till it is possible to climb up onto the arête. Finish ,still exposed, up the arête.
Ticklists: Rog Wilko's Neglected Gems in The Lakes.
Photo: The less than appealing start to Carpetbagger. © Rog Wilko
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This climb is in 4 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.
Hidden - 2012
A bit of a scrappy start, but improves rapidly. Pitch 2 is excellent. All pitches include 4c sections.
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 22/May/10 with Pete Nugent
p1 was bone dry but still serious & tricky. Would be horror if wet!
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Roger Wilkinson
Dave Westby - Lead - 2007 with Rob Lewis
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mussonlr, Hidden, Lumbering Oaf, Ropeboy, Hidden