Rockfax Description
The much-eyed overhanging slim groove is a fierce exercise. Start 5m left of the Mickledore Grooves rampline at the base of the very steep narrow corner.
1) 6a, 40m. Battle up the groove to a sloping ledge, then haul up the thin crack to another ledge - poor belay possible here. Climb the groove above the ledge to near its top then move out right to the rib. Follow the rib until an easy slab on the left leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. The corner-crack to the top, as for May Day Direct pitch 3. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Poor belay after p1, easily linked into p2.
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Lost Horizons
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Scafell East Buttress)