UKC

Rockfax Description
An action-packed route with bold climbing on its initial pitch followed by a tough second. Start 2m left of the narrow mossy cleft of the route Mickledore Chimney, as for Chartreuse.
1) 5c, 45m. Follow Chartreuse up the gangway and out to below the bulge. Move over the bulge and climb the slab to a triangular hold. Climb left and up past a slight overlap before joining and following Mickledore Grooves to a belay in the corner at a block.
2) 6a, 10m. Move out left to a groove and make hard moves up it, finishing at the top of the wide crack of Chartreuse. Abseil off. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
John Kettle 26 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 may not be climbable as a 2m x 1m block has detached from the start (rock scar is obvious), making it more serious and much harder to access the groove. Finishing up Chartreuse (to abseil) or Mickledore Grooves instead are both possibilities. 25/08/2021
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 may not be climbable as a 2m x 1m block has detached from the start (rock scar is obvious), making it more serious and much harder to access the groove. Finishing up Chartreuse (to abseil) or Mickledore Grooves instead are both possibilities. 25/08/2021

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Guidebooks for Scafell East Buttress

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
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Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shape of Things to Come

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Eagle Crag (Buttermere))

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