Chien Lunatique* HVS 4c
[A sunny day at Screda, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete is a popular introduction to the crag. Start just left of the base of the arete.
Climb good cracks to ledges on the arete. From the upper ledge boldly climb the arete on its left side to a crack and follow this to finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: A sunny day at Screda © Jelly Mould Surfer
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 134 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - TR O/S - 28/Aug/15

whiteexplorer - TR O/S - 18/Jul/15 with joe

dready - TR O/S - 18/Jul/15

Did the original line as far as standing in the little hole then made a long step left into the crack of Tourist Trap and up to the big pocket, from the bit hole traversed back right to rejoin the original Chien Line. This goes at HVS 5a
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/15

bigbear86 - TR - May/15

First time since the epic on discovering the loss of arete. I stepped left early at the start of the old crux sequence and gained Sundare/Tourist Trap, climbed to the hole and then went back right above the hole. That line is probably VS 4c and worth a star or two
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/15

Gear is rubbish, and the climbing is more than 4c. Not worth its star.
JoeCoxson - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/15 with Kristy Wallace, Luke Gorman

Skip - TR rpt - 12/Oct/14 with Ivan

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 27/Sep/14 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Stayed on the original route until level with the hole then traversed round the rack fall.
riddle - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Mike Stephenson

mikeyjbs - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

with bits of Sundare
timreynolds - Lead - 25/Jul/14 with Steve Taylor

EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with pete belfield

lead the route stayed on the arete did not know part had fell off,bloody scary
the mist - Lead O/S - 28/May/14

Skip - 2nd rpt - 04/May/14 with Ivan

An important part of the arÍte is lost to the winter storms. Once I completed the original crux I discovered the runners and holds from here to top have gone. Now for intents and purposes a solo. Suggest once past the original crux (feet in the small pocket) make hard a step across to Sundare at about 5a. Holds and pro then available. Climb up to the hole and then traverse back to the original line of Chien. (Traverse can be made earlier with hands at the small pocket) To finish direct - at a guess E1 4c, E2 5a.
Jelly Mould Surfer - TR rpt - 30/Mar/14

at high tide. I had a rest. after a pint, glad I did it
jaffshols - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/13 with Alex Zalewski

Scotsken - Lead - 11/Aug/13

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Mike Brookes

Easy but run out section is spicy.
alexjz - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with John Zalewski

maffujones - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with David Fisher

Skip - TR rpt - 09/Jun/13 with Ivan

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/13

Hidden - TR - 25/May/13

Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Colin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

ian coe - 2nd - May/13 with Richard, Chirstian Good

Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/13

Skip - TR rpt - 02/Mar/13

Did alternative route by small traverse onto Sundare.
Skip - TR O/S - 30/Sep/12

Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Craig

tim exley - Lead rpt - 17/Sep/12 with ben padbrury

Top route, Definitely 4c, definitely HVS. A bit out there for a while.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12

Hidden - TR O/S - Sep/12

Bex_M - TR O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Duncan Dunbar

had to be lowered in from the top and top rope it as the tide was coming in
alexjz - TR O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Vincent Rang, Mark Zalewski

peter.ravenscroft27 - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with Jodie Bee

just one more - Lead - 09/Jul/12 with Phil K

Okecroak - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12 with W. Frost

climbed in the dark with headlight
HansUDes - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/12 with JA Thomson

Motown - Lead β - 19/May/12 with Mike

Just a little sparse on gear in the middle :-)
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Nancy Jones

culmclimberRob - Solo - 08/Mar/12

Carl Johnson - 2nd O/S - 13/Jan/12

Jordon Fleming - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/12 with carl johnson

Zeb - TR O/S - 13/Nov/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/11

edmitchell - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Ellen Cobby

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11

Ellen Cobby - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with Ed Mitchell

Hidden - TR O/S - 31/Aug/11

climbing_wiggy - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Dale

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/11

Joey C - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Tim Exley

nice climbing with run out gear.
vertically_challenged - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11

Warmed up with this great introduction to the crag. Last bits of gear is two nuts in the crack. Then the crux requires you to follow the arete up to the beginning of a new crack. I felt excellent when I was climbing, focusing on the moves and not on the run out!
Legs - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Macca

manwithacam - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/11

Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

Easy on a top rope
MatthParkinson - TR O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Chris Butler

chrisbutler - TR O/S - 01/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 05/Dec/10

led fast.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with haydn jones

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with ed morris

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Becca

Scarily run out at the crux. Probably a bit easier for the tall. Really good route.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Tom

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with stevieo10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Emily went a bit off route and ended up doing the E1 in the middle by mistake, nice link up though...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Emily

Sam-westcott - 04/Apr/10 with simon keenor

Bob Peters - Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

MGrock - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

briar4012 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Marti

Dave Thompson - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Chris Mellor

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - TR O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

eley1 - Lead - Dec/07 with graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/07

prawn - 2nd - Jun/07 with Graham

Dan Shirley - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/07

Dan Shirley - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/07

richardr - Jul/06

Urgles - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/06 with Laura

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

rockpool - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with pol

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05

Above my current grade, had a lot of assistance (very tight rope) from belayer, top rope. Hope to try again this summer.
Skip - TR O/S - May/05

Hidden - Lead - 25/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/04

drpeters - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/03

Hidden - TR - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/02

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Sep/01 with Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/01

Hidden - Solo - 22/Aug/01

Stone Muppet - 2001

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/00 with jim

CraigMac1 - 2000

andy_pemberton - TR - 2000 with Louise Teal, Jonathon, Rik Meek

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/99

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas

mikej - TR - 27/Aug/99 with Mr Shunt

Simon cook - Apr/98

iskra2000 - 2nd - 23/Aug/97 with John Dale

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/97

kp64zl - 2nd - Mar/97 with David Pickford

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/97 with Duncan DS

colin milton - 2nd - 20/Jul/96 with eric milton

Hidden - 07/May/95

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

eroica64 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/94 with Denis Crampton

alan moore - 1993

Hidden - 21/Jun/91

kp64zl - 2nd - May/91 with Paul

Andy Say - Solo - 27/Apr/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/91

Tom V - Lead - 03/Apr/91 with Howie Darwin, Glenn Watson, John Burns

mark-abz - Lead - 12/Aug/89 with Phill R

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, alexjz, Dr Caterpillar, Ropeboy, andymoin

Total votes cast 45
hard E10 of 20
E10 of 20
easy E12 of 20
hard HVS5 of 20
HVS10 of 20
easy HVS3 of 20
hard VS0 of 20
VS0 of 20
easy VS0 of 20
hard 5a0 of 3
5a0 of 3
easy 5a0 of 3
hard 4c1 of 3
4c2 of 3
easy 4c0 of 3
hard 4b0 of 3
4b0 of 3
easy 4b0 of 3
3 Stars0 of 22
2 Stars12 of 22
1 Star9 of 22
0 Stars1 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat