Rockfax Description
Easier if you climb it on the left. Also known as Unholy Alliance. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbable at any grade between about 5+ and 6b+ depending on how close to and which side of the bolts you choose. Originally a trad line, E5 6a; now bolted (and as a result, sometimes called "Unlikely Alliance").

Martin Crocker, Roy Thomas 1994


ClimberDateStyle
wilchivs 29/May Lead O/S
Glyn 22/May Lead O/S
with Amy
chrisscutt 14/May Lead rpt
with Maya
kmoffett1989 30/Apr 2nd O/S
with SUMC
Chubbard 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Tomar
gingernick 26/Apr Lead rpt
steveanthony 26/Apr Lead O/S
Josh Lewis 16/Apr Lead rpt

Forgot to bring climbing shoes so wore approach shoes. Couldn't believe how solid they felt - highlight of the day.

steve L 16/Apr Lead rpt
steveanthony 30/Mar Lead rpt
with John Bullock
Rory Black 12/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar Lead O/S
Anksmb64 05/Mar TR dnf

One bolt from anchor and old wrist injury played up- couldn't grip and couldn't finish...! Highly frustrating

owillmot 28/Feb Lead O/S
with ABC
Penny30 14/Feb Lead
ian bryant ??/2016 -
adam 24 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
ella.thorne5 ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
maddy92 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Connie-Em 27/Sep/15 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead RP
sharpemajor 26/Sep/15 TR
jackbell ?/Sep/15 Lead G/U
Josh Lewis 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 15/Aug/15 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/15 TR
Tom Blyth 15/Aug/15 TR
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead β
rachelvlc 15/Aug/15 Lead

Went left, think it gets 6a

Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Gareth T 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Amber Chaloner 08/Aug/15 TR dog
with Lowri
tom jefferies 22/Jul/15 Lead rpt
steveanthony 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with John Bullock
tom jefferies 17/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Warm up

Rockmonkey1977 11/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jul/15 2nd
Rosea Day 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Gwionens 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead β
Ian Bell 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tania T
Ian Bell 24/May/15 TR rpt
with Tania T
Greg Jones 04/May/15 Lead rpt
with Helen
Neek 02/May/15 Lead
with Caroline
Hidden 02/May/15 Lead
cclason 02/May/15 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
TomJ 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Charlotte
phil64 17/Apr/15 Lead G/U

options out left to be avoided

withey1992 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
simo 24/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Tomas P 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Aelita
AmyYates 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Didymus 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead rpt
dmacmorris 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Ollie B 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with D.MacMorris
gingernick 08/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 24/Jan/15 Lead rpt
TimSolway ??/2015 Lead
Gibbo 20/Dec/14 Lead
with Tom Gibbison
just one more 30/Aug/14 Lead
LucasHarazin 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
anthony henry 23/Aug/14 Lead β
with Chris
chrisscutt 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with ant
LC 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
r_o_b_h2 20/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
beksch 17/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Lydia
Sarah Black 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Josh Lewis 26/Jul/14 Lead RP
CaptLing 26/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead
ChrisAllen 11/Jul/14 -
oldcheese 05/Jul/14 -
Samuel Cox 14/Jun/14 TR dog
with Nicky
brices 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
Petar Samkov 04/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jessbinx 04/Jun/14 2nd β
with Cai, Petar, Tom <3
jonskippy 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Retro flash

with Edgars
A Jackson ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BicycleBradley 26/May/14 Lead rpt
khris 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Bradley
Adam_42 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Tough crux move.

with Tom Beach
Hidden 07/May/14 Lead
mdjb 05/May/14 Lead
Tor Grigg 26/Apr/14 TR β
with Cas
Josh Lewis 25/Apr/14 Lead dog
with James Taylor, Steve Lewis
steve L 25/Apr/14 Lead O/S
eugeneth 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Warm up

Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead RP
chris85 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
brices 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
brices 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
Giles Davis 23/Mar/14 Lead rpt
gingernick 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Thomas Matthews, Dan the Man
MikeSP 23/Mar/14 Lead
08nbrierley 25/Jan/14 Lead dog
with pete
Hidden ??/2014 -
quiffhanger 07/Oct/13 Lead β
with Kate
monsteratt 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Bill, Carl
Carl Watkins 01/Sep/13 Lead β
Marti999 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
alice_loudon 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Geoff
grp 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Matt88 22/Jul/13 TR
beakerburgess 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with will johnson
Motown 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Day
Phil_hood ?/Jul/13 Lead
saraguti 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

tended left but still had a fall , got it on second go.pumpy. good route.

Giles Davis 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Chris Shepherd
Paul Robertson 31/May/13 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with paul
timreynolds 27/May/13 TR

In the rain - would go on lead

Alex Wade 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
CLyus 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
with partz
simonr 07/Apr/13 Lead rpt
brices 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Joe Day
Jay81 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 30/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden 25/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Matt JM Stevens 15/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 01/Mar/13 Lead RP

Tended left of the bolts.

joem 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR
beakerburgess 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Ciro 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Clare
haydng 13/Oct/12 Lead RP
with Dave, Rachel
CJSuttz 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Giles Davis 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Giles Davis 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
riff156 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
owlman 16/Sep/12 Lead β
DorsetGareth ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead
shoulders 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Gwionlewis ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
owain86 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
eugeneth 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Owain
Dave Cale ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 27/May/12 Lead rpt
Giles Davis 27/May/12 Lead rpt

Repeated to take clips out.

mloskot 26/May/12 Lead β
Henry Brown 15/May/12 -
Greg Jones 15/May/12 Lead dog

Soo cooked so hard to read.

JonnyW 15/May/12 Lead
with Alexander J Linge
Giles Davis 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Thom.milburn 13/May/12 Lead β
Kevster 06/May/12 Lead O/S
AshWH 10/Apr/12 Lead β
with Eliot
BenTiffin 04/Apr/12 Lead β

Very intimidating start at 6a+!

with Ellen Hughes
matt_lethargic 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Marta
Giles Davis 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Alex Wade 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JonnyW 21/Mar/12 Lead
r_o_b_h2 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Nik Goile
gingernick 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Daryl
Cailean Harker 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hannah Brading 01/Mar/12 Lead RP

4th go

jonskippy 18/Dec/11 Lead
Dave Rumney 06/Nov/11 -
with Tanya Milner
OERees 05/Nov/11 Lead rpt
owain86 01/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Morgan
Matthew Edwards 16/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
partz 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ed
Giles Davis 10/Sep/11 Lead dog
Giles Davis 10/Sep/11 Lead RP
gethin_allen 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

slightly to the left of the bolts at 3rd or 4th bolt, straight up the middle seemed stiff for the 6a it gets in the guide.

Fatboy1000 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Should have gotten the onsite, rested after first move. 6b start on a 6a climb.

with Chris
OERees 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt

L.B Sport F6a+

EliotStephens 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
OERees 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

L.B Sport F6a+

Stone Muppet 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with max bums, cc
TimBoothby 23/Jun/11 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
rannett ?/Jun/11 TR
josh1905 ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with eliot stephens
Mateusz 29/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Dan
Dan_Carroll 25/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Mateusz
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
DrGav 23/Apr/11 Lead β

Followed the tick marks - but definitely escapable on the left. Good rock, good climbing.

with Dave
Christian Reynish 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tim boothby, Daffyd Jones
Craig Seaman 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Rhyso
Dan_Carroll 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Iain
Mattdix 19/Mar/11 Lead
Mattdix 12/Mar/11 Lead
chers 11/Sep/10 TR

Should've/could've led this one

d_meacher 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gejones 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC, Sean
DafSWMC 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sean L, Gareth
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Wendy 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Coles
notclive 08/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Sophie
notclive 25/Jul/10 Lead dog
Tim W 17/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah Jenkins, Andrew Davidson
Betty M ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
RD ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Claire S-J 26/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Cowflinger 30/May/10 Lead rpt
with Pete Lewis
mikeshewring 30/May/10 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
tweedcore 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
stu1981 24/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead
Aaron Stephens 18/Apr/10 TR
Racky123 18/Apr/10 TR
bluesharper 17/Apr/10 Lead β
cjsheps 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Tim W 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
rhoslynfrugtniet ?/Mar/10 Lead
Caspian Johnson ??/2010 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
sam8oy 03/Sep/09 Lead
with John
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
paul walters 08/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Had leader fall on second runner. NB demonstrated his combined belay/spotting technique, as I swung right into him. Hurt him more than me. Which was nice of him !

with Neil Baker
Billg 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
simonr 14/May/08 Lead O/S
jfreeman 13/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead β
onlytovey 10/Aug/07 TR O/S
with Luke
chris wyatt 04/Jun/07 Lead RP
with Tam
matt.woodfield 15/Apr/07 Lead
steve.warrington 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
selman ??/2007 Lead β
goi.ashmore 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Unholy Alliance

adrianjenner ?/Feb/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Eugetj ?/May/94 Lead O/S

2nd ascent as trad route very poorly protected

with Roy Thomas
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GeorgT
Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set