Rockfax Description
Easier if you climb it on the left. Also known as Unholy Alliance. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbable at any grade between about 5+ and 6b+ depending on how close to and which side of the bolts you choose. Originally a trad line, E5 6a; now bolted (and as a result, sometimes called "Unlikely Alliance").

Martin Crocker, Roy Thomas 1994

wilchivs 29/May Lead O/S
Glyn 22/May Lead O/S
with Amy
chrisscutt 14/May Lead rpt
with Maya
kmoffett1989 30/Apr 2nd O/S
with SUMC
Chubbard 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Tomar
gingernick 26/Apr Lead rpt
steveanthony 26/Apr Lead O/S
Josh Lewis 16/Apr Lead rpt

Forgot to bring climbing shoes so wore approach shoes. Couldn't believe how solid they felt - highlight of the day.

steve L 16/Apr Lead rpt
steveanthony 30/Mar Lead rpt
with John Bullock
Rory Black 12/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar Lead O/S
Anksmb64 05/Mar TR dnf

One bolt from anchor and old wrist injury played up- couldn't grip and couldn't finish...! Highly frustrating

owillmot 28/Feb Lead O/S
with ABC
Penny30 14/Feb Lead
ian bryant ??/2016 -
adam 24 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
ella.thorne5 ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
maddy92 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Connie-Em 27/Sep/15 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead RP
sharpemajor 26/Sep/15 TR
jackbell ?/Sep/15 Lead G/U
Josh Lewis 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 15/Aug/15 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/15 TR
Tom Blyth 15/Aug/15 TR
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead β
rachelvlc 15/Aug/15 Lead

Went left, think it gets 6a

Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Gareth T 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Amber Chaloner 08/Aug/15 TR dog
with Lowri
tom jefferies 22/Jul/15 Lead rpt
steveanthony 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with John Bullock
tom jefferies 17/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Warm up

Rockmonkey1977 11/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jul/15 2nd
Rosea Day 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Gwionens 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead β
Ian Bell 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tania T
Ian Bell 24/May/15 TR rpt
with Tania T
Greg Jones 04/May/15 Lead rpt
with Helen
Neek 02/May/15 Lead
with Caroline
Hidden 02/May/15 Lead
cclason 02/May/15 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
TomJ 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Charlotte
phil64 17/Apr/15 Lead G/U

options out left to be avoided

withey1992 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
simo 24/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Tomas P 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Aelita
AmyYates 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Didymus 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead rpt
dmacmorris 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Ollie B 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with D.MacMorris
gingernick 08/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 24/Jan/15 Lead rpt
TimSolway ??/2015 Lead
Gibbo 20/Dec/14 Lead
with Tom Gibbison
just one more 30/Aug/14 Lead
LucasHarazin 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
anthony henry 23/Aug/14 Lead β
with Chris
chrisscutt 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with ant
LC 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
r_o_b_h2 20/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
beksch 17/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Lydia
Sarah Black 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Josh Lewis 26/Jul/14 Lead RP
CaptLing 26/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead
ChrisAllen 11/Jul/14 -
oldcheese 05/Jul/14 -
Samuel Cox 14/Jun/14 TR dog
with Nicky
brices 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
Petar Samkov 04/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jessbinx 04/Jun/14 2nd β
with Cai, Petar, Tom <3
jonskippy 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Retro flash

with Edgars
A Jackson ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BicycleBradley 26/May/14 Lead rpt
khris 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Bradley
Adam_42 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Tough crux move.

with Tom Beach
Hidden 07/May/14 Lead
mdjb 05/May/14 Lead
Tor Grigg 26/Apr/14 TR β
with Cas
Josh Lewis 25/Apr/14 Lead dog
with James Taylor, Steve Lewis
steve L 25/Apr/14 Lead O/S
eugeneth 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Warm up

Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead RP
chris85 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
brices 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
brices 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
Giles Davis 23/Mar/14 Lead rpt
gingernick 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Thomas Matthews, Dan the Man
MikeSP 23/Mar/14 Lead
08nbrierley 25/Jan/14 Lead dog
with pete
Hidden ??/2014 -
quiffhanger 07/Oct/13 Lead β
with Kate
monsteratt 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Bill, Carl
Carl Watkins 01/Sep/13 Lead β
Marti999 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
alice_loudon 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Geoff
grp 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Matt88 22/Jul/13 TR
beakerburgess 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with will johnson
Motown 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Day
Phil_hood ?/Jul/13 Lead
saraguti 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

tended left but still had a fall , got it on second go.pumpy. good route.

Giles Davis 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Chris Shepherd
Paul Robertson 31/May/13 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with paul
timreynolds 27/May/13 TR

In the rain - would go on lead

Alex Wade 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
CLyus 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
with partz
simonr 07/Apr/13 Lead rpt
brices 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Joe Day
Jay81 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 30/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden 25/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Matt JM Stevens 15/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 01/Mar/13 Lead RP

Tended left of the bolts.

joem 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR
beakerburgess 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Ciro 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Clare
haydng 13/Oct/12 Lead RP
with Dave, Rachel
CJSuttz 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Giles Davis 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Giles Davis 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
riff156 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
owlman 16/Sep/12 Lead β
DorsetGareth ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead
shoulders 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Gwionlewis ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
owain86 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
eugeneth 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Owain
Dave Cale ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 27/May/12 Lead rpt
Giles Davis 27/May/12 Lead rpt

Repeated to take clips out.

mloskot 26/May/12 Lead β
Henry Brown 15/May/12 -
Greg Jones 15/May/12 Lead dog

Soo cooked so hard to read.

JonnyW 15/May/12 Lead
with Alexander J Linge
Giles Davis 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Thom.milburn 13/May/12 Lead β
Kevster 06/May/12 Lead O/S
AshWH 10/Apr/12 Lead β
with Eliot
BenTiffin 04/Apr/12 Lead β

Very intimidating start at 6a+!

with Ellen Hughes
matt_lethargic 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Marta
Giles Davis 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Alex Wade 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JonnyW 21/Mar/12 Lead
r_o_b_h2 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Nik Goile
gingernick 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Daryl
Cailean Harker 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hannah Brading 01/Mar/12 Lead RP

4th go

jonskippy 18/Dec/11 Lead
Dave Rumney 06/Nov/11 -
with Tanya Milner
OERees 05/Nov/11 Lead rpt
owain86 01/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Morgan
Matthew Edwards 16/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
partz 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ed
Giles Davis 10/Sep/11 Lead dog
Giles Davis 10/Sep/11 Lead RP
gethin_allen 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

slightly to the left of the bolts at 3rd or 4th bolt, straight up the middle seemed stiff for the 6a it gets in the guide.

Fatboy1000 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Should have gotten the onsite, rested after first move. 6b start on a 6a climb.

with Chris
OERees 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt

L.B Sport F6a+

EliotStephens 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
OERees 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

L.B Sport F6a+

Stone Muppet 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with max bums, cc
TimBoothby 23/Jun/11 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
rannett ?/Jun/11 TR
josh1905 ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with eliot stephens
Mateusz 29/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Dan
Dan_Carroll 25/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Mateusz
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
DrGav 23/Apr/11 Lead β

Followed the tick marks - but definitely escapable on the left. Good rock, good climbing.

with Dave
Christian Reynish 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tim boothby, Daffyd Jones
Craig Seaman 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Rhyso
Dan_Carroll 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Iain
Mattdix 19/Mar/11 Lead
Mattdix 12/Mar/11 Lead
chers 11/Sep/10 TR

Should've/could've led this one

d_meacher 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gejones 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC, Sean
DafSWMC 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sean L, Gareth
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Wendy 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Coles
notclive 08/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Sophie
notclive 25/Jul/10 Lead dog
Tim W 17/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah Jenkins, Andrew Davidson
Betty M ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
RD ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Claire S-J 26/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Cowflinger 30/May/10 Lead rpt
with Pete Lewis
mikeshewring 30/May/10 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
tweedcore 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
stu1981 24/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead
Aaron Stephens 18/Apr/10 TR
Racky123 18/Apr/10 TR
bluesharper 17/Apr/10 Lead β
cjsheps 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Tim W 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
rhoslynfrugtniet ?/Mar/10 Lead
Caspian Johnson ??/2010 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
sam8oy 03/Sep/09 Lead
with John
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
paul walters 08/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Had leader fall on second runner. NB demonstrated his combined belay/spotting technique, as I swung right into him. Hurt him more than me. Which was nice of him !

with Neil Baker
Billg 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
simonr 14/May/08 Lead O/S
jfreeman 13/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead β
onlytovey 10/Aug/07 TR O/S
with Luke
chris wyatt 04/Jun/07 Lead RP
with Tam
matt.woodfield 15/Apr/07 Lead
steve.warrington 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
selman ??/2007 Lead β
goi.ashmore 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Unholy Alliance

adrianjenner ?/Feb/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Eugetj ?/May/94 Lead O/S

2nd ascent as trad route very poorly protected

with Roy Thomas
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set