VF dei Finanzieri Colac* VF4B

Rockfax Description
From the town of Canazei you can't help but notice the impressive northwest face of Colac rising up besides the western flank of the Marmolada. Despite being easily accessed from the top lift station of the Ciampac cable car, this via ferrata has a very Alpine character and feel. It receives very little sun and consequently it is not uncommon to encounter snow and ice late into the season. The rock quality is also more 'Alpine' in nature and the face has suffered several large rockfalls in the past. Despite this the via ferrata is engaging and has cleaned up nicely in recent times. The views from the summit are excellent and the descent down the southeast side makes for a complete and rewarding itinerary.
Approach - From Canazei, take the SP641 heading southeast towards the Marmolada. After 2.5km you reach the village of Alba. At the end of the village, just before you get to Penia, is the Ciampac cable car on the right - free parking is available here. The usual approach is via the cable car which runs from late June to mid September. For those wishing to walk, it is possible to take path 602 and then track 644 up to the lift station. Alternatively it is possible to walk straight up the winter ski piste, but both routes are arduous and not particularly pleasant.
Exit to the left from the top of the lift station and cross the ski pistes heading roughly southeast following signs for the via ferrata. The path skirts a small reservoir (that doesn't always have water in it) and then heads more steeply uphill through scree. After 20 minutes you should reach the first section of cable. This turns out to be brief and a further stint of uphill walking takes you to the start of the cable proper.
VF - The route starts up an often-wet slab rounding a corner to climb a successive slab. This leads to a steep section of slightly overhanging stemples with some excellent exposure. From here the climbing gets easier although remains fairly sustained as you proceed along more slabs and up a number of corners. The route presents a number of false summits as you climb and often takes longer than people anticipate. The actual summit is worth the wait providing spectacular views of the surrounding area and in particular the Gran Vernel on the west flanks of the Marmolada.
Descent - The descent path is clearly marked with paint and leads down to the south. There are some easy passages of down-climbing often protected by intermittent sections of wire. After descending a wide scree-filled gully the path forks. Stay up high on the right heading for the saddle of Forcia Neigra. After descending from the Forcia back into the Ciampac bowl the path forks again. Take the right-hand fork following path 644 back to the Ciampac cable car. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Great route to summit, but steep with loose rock


Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

7hrs to rifugio passo San nicolo.
Nicola - 12/Jul/15

yelotango - Solo - Jul/15

Hidden - 01/Aug/14

johnny-adams13 - 04/Sep/13

mikelaing - Lead - Aug/13

Hidden - 04/Sep/12

Marq - 22/Aug/12 with James Rowe, James Pearson

Hidden - 22/Aug/12

Gemma & Stuart
Vicky L - Solo O/S - 20/Aug/12

Good route
Fiskavaig - Solo - 09/Jul/12 with Steve Bridg, Paul R

phillipjohnson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Matt schwarz

Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Phillip Johnson

Hidden - 14/Jul/11

Quite polished, nice warm up route though and excellent views.
prog99 - 03/Jul/11 with Fiona

Pretty stiff for 3C but a good route. Well worth continuing over the easier Feratta on the way down.
Fiona Reid - 03/Jul/11 with Mike

Hidden - 03/Sep/10

Rampikino - Solo - 26/Aug/10 with Cat

The descent VF.
Rampikino - Solo - 26/Aug/10 with Cat

seanyt - Solo - Jul/10

Long and exposed route that stays cool in the middle of summer. Damp on the ramp. Really nice route.
Guy - Aug/09 with Pamela

pocketsarah - 11/Jul/09

Hidden - 2009

andrewbooth1000 - 11/Jul/08 with Rob & Mark

Elsier - Jul/08 with Stuart

guy stabler - 2008

flat eric - Lead - 04/Sep/07

JulianD - Solo - 31/Jul/07 with Ann

Hidden - 16/Jul/07

Hidden - 2007

runwildjohn - 16/Jul/06 with Alice Horton

a bit slippy on the slab... Saw marmots on the way down, the first ones we'd seen in the alps.
Toerag - 09/Jul/05 with Samantha Woolcombe

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jul/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
orangeboy

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard VF4C0 of 11
VF4C0 of 11
easy VF4C0 of 11
hard VF4B0 of 11
VF4B0 of 11
easy VF4B0 of 11
hard VF4A0 of 11
VF4A0 of 11
easy VF4A1 of 11
hard VF3C6 of 11
VF3C4 of 11
easy VF3C0 of 11
3 Stars4 of 12
2 Stars8 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S