58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route, but feels bold for the grade. Start below the V-groove of Dorcon.
1) 30m. Scramble up left to the base of a rib. Move out onto the rib and follow it boldly past a holly tree on the right (possible belay). Carry on to a steeper wall and belay on the flake.
2) 12m. Move up and left passing an overlap to reach a slab that leads to Y Borfa.
3) 16m. Move diagonally right up easier-angle terrain to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A pleasant route, but feels bold for the grade. Start below the v-groove of Dorcon.
1.) 30m, Scramble up left to the base of a rib. Move out onto the rib and follow it boldly past a holly tree on the right (possible belay). Carry on up a steeper wall and belay on the flake.
2.) 12m, move up and left passing an overlap to reach a slab that leads to Y Borfa (The Pasture).
3.) 16m, move diagonally right up easier angle terrain to the top.

R Davies, G Williams 27/May/1953

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Hidden 31/Oct Lead
Neil Metcalfe101 03/Oct 2nd

Climbed with Chris Russel and Bryn. Hadn't Climbed for years and Bryn probably hasn't Climbed before. Chris lead all pitches, Bryn 2nd & me 3rd. They had mountain boots on and I had approach shoes on which made the 'bold' sections pretty bold! Did some abbing practice at the top in readiness for The Cullin Ridge.

SAF 27/Sep Lead O/S

Led P2 and P3 of Y Gelynen after seconding Condor

with Phil
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd dnf
acollins615 30/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 21/Jul Lead O/S
with Dan2
lithos 19/Jul AltLd

I did P1 on this- which was about 40m not 30, and i got 11 bits of gear (and there was a bit more) some in clusters, but were a couple of long runouts. Mike led P2 & P3 . Great route

with Mike Shaw
Ann S 10/Jun Lead rpt

Repeat lead all pitches. Started day well by leaving shoes in car and had to run back to fetch, then set off up wrong scramble line and had to beat retreat with a tension traverse off a daisy root. Good practice for Mark learning how not to do it.

with Mark Jeffrey
hobnobs 10/Jun 2nd β
odari 06/Jun -
fizzychewitt 17/May AltLd
with Richard, MagsB
Hidden 16/May Lead
foostu4 21/Apr Lead O/S

Leading 2 clients for MIA practice, nice route, super compact rock!

guy.paton 21/Apr 2nd

With Stu and Maggie, first climb for her for a long time, so well done

with Stuart
GermanAlex 05/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Quite bold as per guidebook description.

MusicalMountaineer 04/Apr AltLd O/S
Jack Manfredi ?/Apr Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Raggar 23/Nov/14 AltLd

Led pitches 1 & 3 - bold

with Jon B
liverpooldave 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Paul & Paul

manosand 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Liverpool Dave
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd
oddtoast 16/Aug/14 AltLd

Long bold first pitch, nice.

with Gav
mattgrange 07/Jul/14 AltLd

Superb and exposed for VDiff

Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd
wilf 01/Jun/14 AltLd

good exposed, gear thin low down but fine from middle of P1 on. Went L after wall on P1, a little exposed for VD.

with Tom, Andy, nick f
Neil Watson 25/May/14 AltLd

Climbed with Byrne and Liam. Byrne did a great job leading the first pitch after a bit a false start. I led pitches 2 and 3. Went with Climbers Club description for P2 going o ff the left side (facing in?) which felt quite exposed with sparse pro. Well done to Liam for some good climbing. Only marred by the fact that another pair decided, with the whole mountain available, to do this climb at the same time.

with Liam, Byrne
Hidden 25/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Pesda potato 21/May/14 AltLd O/S
with chris
matthew_ellis24 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Very exposed early on. Went a bit wrong further up and went right of the main route - which made it fun!

vinspin 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with kaz
Hidden 02/May/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 AltLd
robjdc 12/Apr/14 AltLd

Wessex lead 1&2. I lead 3&4

with Wessex
accordion_to_who 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one and three. Followed Joe up pitch two.

jmills94 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

lead top part of first pitch as hugo split it at the holly busy. Amazing climbing once your on the slab on this pitch all the way to the ledge. Fantastic first multipitch lead by hugo as the bottom bit is rather run out! dont let this put you off as above is some ace climbing

Hidden 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/14 Solo rpt
Joshthomas 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Anna Yorke 17/Mar/14 AltLd
Trevers 16/Mar/14 AltLd

Made an absolute mess of the first scrambly pitch, ending up in the wrong place. Led through the second pitch which seemed very bold for a VDiff - some improvisation required to find runners. Climbed in glorious sunshine. Was worried that a sheep stuck on the ledge was going to jump onto my head!

with wjcdean
wjcdean 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

first vdiff of the season and a bit of a shambles. The less said about hte first pitch the better (you idiot, Trevs). the rest is good climbing although on horrific protection, glad i wasnt leading P2 (well redeemed, Trevs!). A sheep stuck on y Borfa was stamping his feet at me as I topped out, glad he didnt feel the need to butt me off his territory

with Trevers
Babika 19/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Not a great route in January. P1 was slimy, vegetated, muddy and lichenous followed by a bold and steep wall. Freezing fingers and a hailstorm meant we bailed at the holly. Not VD at all.

JulianB 19/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

A sunny spell lulled us into a false sense of security. Bailed at the first (official) belay with wet, numb hands when the hail started falling having already turned it into two pitches. As soon as we abbed down the sun came out again!

with Babika
Uriah 11/Jan/14 Lead

with MagsB & JonP. A little cold and damp near the top

Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
bantamdave 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Club hut meet

with Gary
steven 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Dawson
sdawson1 16/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with swifty
alexcollins123 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Nice and exposed but quite run out. Easy climbing - final pitch is a scramble.

xusa 19/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Joshthomas 01/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/12 2nd O/S
luke glaister 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Was hungover but still think this is more than vdiff. I lead pitch 1 and 2. Casey did the top. most of the climbing is ran out and on crap gear. would not like to be a vdiff climber and take this on... or perhaps it was the beer gremlins. :-)

casey johns 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
dansmonkeytroubles 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Solo
ladymuck 23/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/12 -
Hidden 19/Jul/12 AltLd
DaveAllen 27/May/12 2nd O/S
with Andy Muir
lost.arrow 27/May/12 Lead
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
liverpooldave 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Aaron
avin_a_look 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
craig h 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Duncan Beard 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

From the small stance below the crack Pip lead the first pitch proper. He must have run out 12m of rope before he found any gear and the stance is 10m off the ground! Fortunately he has a steady head from lots of hard scrambling experience. Nice pitch but seemed a bit scrappy above. Lovely situation though.

with Pip McCarthy
Ows ?/May/12 AltLd
cem 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

With severe finish

with Natalia Male Alcalde, Graham Dolman
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
ewan i 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with dave duggan
mandy ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with elf
alaster tonge 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Lawrence Eccles 04/Jul/11 Solo O/S
KevinJ 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Jimmy Q
sdawson1 24/Jun/11 -
with Martin, Ray
ayuplass 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Led 1st and last pitch, Lesley did 2nd. First pitch was 150ft with 3 runners, the last 2 were 10ft from the belay. Bold! Brilliant rock. Tried sev finish but backed off

with Lesley, Fred
Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar/11 AltLd
Jams Crwca 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S

With frozen fingers - delicate. Did in 2 pitches, straight up on 2nd pitch with a flake to pull over at the top ... HS 4b move?

with Pat
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
lisafer ??/2011 -
Adrianw 17/Oct/10 AltLd dnf
sarah hawker 17/Oct/10 Lead dnf

I led to beside the holly tree, then got scared. Managed to drop belay plate in a gorse bush out of reach so brought Adrian up on an italian hitch on one rope, he was too cold to lead on so we bailed out left.

Nordic 26/Sep/10 AltLd
with Alan Hardie
tompilgrem 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Very nice, did in 2 pitches, led p 2. Very nice though gear was a little spaced for a vd , all good placements though. Myb worth severe?

with Dad
bobpilgrem 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 - Tom ran P2 and 3 togethor as it started to rain.First pitch has good but spaced pro for a VD

with Bob/Tom
The Green Giant 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Seconded 2nd pitch. To Honeysuckle Corner from Dorcan.

with Heather
dansmonkeytroubles 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd
HeatherF 15/Aug/10 AltLd

2nd pitch

with Alex
coffeepot 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with jelaby
ParkFace ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
SGD 27/Jun/10 AltLd
jossjones 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ann S 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

Took a short early belay at end of wet scramble before starting on the rib. I think this helps avoid rope drag through heather and gorsey veg. Led pitch 1,2 and 4. Superb quality route-very little gear but no hard moves and thoroughly enjoyable.

with Carole
cas smerdon 02/May/10 AltLd
with Ann Shaw
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
groovy_nut 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3 (Severe variant - definitely much, MUCH better than the VDiff finish)

with Patrick
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead
ashsleight ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches with the Severe finish.

with Ratty and Phil
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
mikelaing ?/Dec/09 Lead
with Carolyn
trish1968 11/Sep/09 Lead

Lovely climb but sparse on gear

with Terry, Si
Terentius 11/Sep/09 2nd
sjdg5 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S
overexposure 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Gear thin on pitch 2. Climbed as a three

with Ki, LB
krusty23 05/Sep/09 2nd
with overexposure, Lou Beetlestone
Frank Blakeley 05/Sep/09 AltLd
with Ian
Hidden 01/Aug/09 Lead
gh84 ?/Aug/09 AltLd

alt leads, i did number 2, rich finished severe variation.

Stoney Boy 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
abercolin 24/May/09 Lead dog

Struggled on the first section after slipping on some mud then pulling having a large crystal snap off in hand. Gear is a little lacking, especially on the lower section. Having said this it's a superb route up a stunning line - especially good with the severe finish, which I found easier than the lower bottom of pitch one. Excellent route but beware of some friable rock.

hayleylouise 24/May/09 2nd
berry ?/May/09 Lead
with simon
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd
richw2k2 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with Andy T
Moniawl 13/Apr/09 2nd
with andy t & richw2k2
snakebite 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1 and 2, Claire took top pitch

with Claire Sheehan
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead
fingermagic 01/Mar/09 2nd
with Allan
overexposure ??/2009 -

Climbed as a three on twin ropes.Gear on middle pitch is a little intricate (for a VD!) and requires small wires and cams. Looks bigger than it feels when you are on in.

with Ki, LB
Frank Blakeley 05/Nov/08 AltLd
with Ian
Matt - BodyPoint 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Wood
JCB42 08/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/08 Lead
Whealiebob 08/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2&3 (very quickly to escape the midges!)

with Stee & Terry
Milne 08/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

great climb, though bold and tough for VD. and midge infested.

with Dave
Hidden 07/Aug/08 -
Hidden 07/Aug/08 Lead
tommcdonna 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

My first Multipitch. Wet and squelchy walk in and out in the rain, with plenty of water filled holds to boot. I think we must of run this as 3 pitches, I led P2.

with Steve Culverhouse
Different Steve 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Tom McDonna
fizzychewitt 28/Jun/08 Lead
michael burrows 28/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
KeithW 19/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

1st & last pitches, quite taxing in big boots. Explored the mines afterwards.

with Corky
Mike Soulby 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S

took the servere on the last pitch, a bit grassy in places but nice finish

Brown 02/Mar/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/07 AltLd
Neil Metcalfe101 04/Nov/07 2nd
with Allan Mac & Peter Vaughn.
Neilfrherts 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

lacking gear on the first part of the first pitch

with Sean
joe larner 23/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
tanssop 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S

first pitch is challenging

with Julie
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
rd20 24/Aug/07 AltLd

P1 and P3

with Martin
smolders 24/Aug/07 AltLd
stephen Rowley 15/Aug/07 2nd O/S

A bit overgrown and and wee bit damp as it hasnt catch the sun much on the day we went up. Little bit alcking in gear but a good work out and fairly enjoyable

with Bob
Hidden 15/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Stephen Roberts ?/Aug/07 AltLd

Its taken me 33 years to complete this route! I first tried the route when I was 17, fell off above the holly tree and hit the ground sustaining fractures to my spine, knee cap, and ankle. 33 years later, in the dry, with modern protection I was successful!!!

with Les Jennings
Ian Broome 10/Jul/07 Lead

felt run out for grade

with Tanya
Hidden 10/Jul/07 2nd
hazeysunshine 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/07 AltLd
Karlos 06/May/07 Lead
with Rebecca
nathan_kelly ?/May/07 2nd
with Fruit Bat, Steve Wilcox
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead
Hidden 18/Feb/07 AltLd
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Joe Miller 29/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Dave, Tim
Thomas Healing 01/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Dry Rock

Phil Jennings 06/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with James Brown
Big Steve 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 30/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
ZA ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with steve copplestone, Sofka
Rampikino 28/May/05 Lead
with MMC Various
Ybot Htulk ?/May/05 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
sgl0jd ?/Oct/04 Lead
with Tim Jones
D Berry 12/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Claire Berry
Hidden 30/May/04 Lead
Marq 10/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

top 2 pitches after Condor

with Daniel Dennehy, Jon Moulding
andygreen 19/Apr/03 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13/May/02 2nd
Hidden 05/May/02 Lead O/S
oscaig ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Steve Reeves
alan moore ??/2000 -
Martyn ?/Apr/98 AltLd
with Rob Boylin
Hidden ??/1998 Solo
Hidden 24/May/97 Lead O/S
Ian Archer 10/Nov/96 AltLd O/S
with Tony Morris
Hidden 04/Jun/96 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
pete_fewings ??/1995 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Aug/94 AltLd
with Roz C
stokienomad 19/Jun/94 Lead
malc 16/Apr/94 AltLd
goi.ashmore 16/Aug/93 Solo O/S
auld al ?/May/93 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1993 -
Fiskavaig ??/1993 Lead

Good route

with Steve Ben
Hidden 23/Nov/91 Solo
Iain Thow 13/Apr/91 Solo rpt
timreynolds 26/Sep/90 Lead

First pitch only - lacing up pre-placed gear

with Andy Phillips
pingora 15/Apr/90 Solo
babymoac 26/Nov/89 Lead
with Ronan
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/89 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
sdht ??/1989 -
Gordon Stainforth 28/May/88 AltLd
with Nick Gregory
nigehughes ?/Apr/88 AltLd
with John Arnott
Hammy 02/Aug/87 Solo
Iain Thow 16/May/87 Lead

Great route on amazing bubbly rock.

with Richard Holmes
Simon2005 08/Mar/86 Lead O/S
with KevG
lithos ?/Nov/85 Lead
with mark planner
Nigel Bond 05/Aug/84 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
Rob Davies ?/Jul/82 Lead
with Jessica Flower
Hidden ?/Jan/80 -
rogerskews 02/Apr/78 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Hidden 17/Feb/77 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 29/Feb/76 AltLd
with Mike Ward
mikej 29/Feb/76 AltLd
with Malcolm Parker
Hidden 16/Jun/74 AltLd O/S
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