Y Gelynen** VD
58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route, but feels bold for the grade. Start below the V-groove of Dorcon.
1) 30m. Scramble up left to the base of a rib. Move out onto the rib and follow it boldly past a holly tree on the right (possible belay). Carry on to a steeper wall and belay on the flake.
2) 12m. Move up and left passing an overlap to reach a slab that leads to Y Borfa.
3) 16m. Move diagonally right up easier-angle terrain to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A pleasant route, but feels bold for the grade. Start below the v-groove of Dorcon.
1.) 30m, Scramble up left to the base of a rib. Move out onto the rib and follow it boldly past a holly tree on the right (possible belay). Carry on up a steeper wall and belay on the flake.
2.) 12m, move up and left passing an overlap to reach a slab that leads to Y Borfa (The Pasture).
3.) 16m, move diagonally right up easier angle terrain to the top.

R Davies, G Williams 27/May/1953

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

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This climb is in 236 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Climbed with Chris Russel and Bryn. Hadn't Climbed for years and Bryn probably hasn't Climbed before. Chris lead all pitches, Bryn 2nd & me 3rd. They had mountain boots on and I had approach shoes on which made the 'bold' sections pretty bold! Did some abbing practice at the top in readiness for The Cullin Ridge.
Neil Metcalfe101 - 2nd - 03/Oct/15

Led P2 and P3 of Y Gelynen after seconding Condor
SAF - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Phil

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Sep/15

acollins615 - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Amelia Coggon

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/15 with Dan2

I did P1 on this- which was about 40m not 30, and i got 11 bits of gear (and there was a bit more) some in clusters, but were a couple of long runouts. Mike led P2 & P3 . Great route
lithos - AltLd - 19/Jul/15 with Mike Shaw

Repeat lead all pitches. Started day well by leaving shoes in car and had to run back to fetch, then set off up wrong scramble line and had to beat retreat with a tension traverse off a daisy root. Good practice for Mark learning how not to do it.
Ann S - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/15 with Mark Jeffrey

hobnobs - 2nd β - 10/Jun/15 with Ann Shaw

odari - 06/Jun/15

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 17/May/15 with Richard, MagsB

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/15

Leading 2 clients for MIA practice, nice route, super compact rock!
foostu4 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/15

With Stu and Maggie, first climb for her for a long time, so well done
guy.paton - 2nd - 21/Apr/15 with Stuart

Lead pitch 1. Quite bold as per guidebook description.
GermanAlex - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15

MusicalMountaineer - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/15

Jack Manfredi - Lead - Apr/15

Hidden - 2015

Led pitches 1 & 3 - bold
Raggar - AltLd - 23/Nov/14 with Jon B

Paul & Paul
liverpooldave - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14

manosand - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Liverpool Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/14

Long bold first pitch, nice.
oddtoast - AltLd - 16/Aug/14 with Gav

Superb and exposed for VDiff
mattgrange - AltLd - 07/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/14

good exposed, gear thin low down but fine from middle of P1 on. Went L after wall on P1, a little exposed for VD.
wilf - AltLd - 01/Jun/14 with Tom, Andy, nick f

Climbed with Byrne and Liam. Byrne did a great job leading the first pitch after a bit a false start. I led pitches 2 and 3. Went with Climbers Club description for P2 going o ff the left side (facing in?) which felt quite exposed with sparse pro. Well done to Liam for some good climbing. Only marred by the fact that another pair decided, with the whole mountain available, to do this climb at the same time.
Neil Watson - AltLd - 25/May/14 with Liam, Byrne

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14

Pesda potato - AltLd O/S - 21/May/14 with chris

Very exposed early on. Went a bit wrong further up and went right of the main route - which made it fun!
matthew_ellis24 - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

vinspin - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with kaz

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Apr/14

Wessex lead 1&2. I lead 3&4
robjdc - AltLd - 12/Apr/14 with Wessex

Lead pitch one and three. Followed Joe up pitch two.
accordion_to_who - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/14 with Joe Mills

lead top part of first pitch as hugo split it at the holly busy. Amazing climbing once your on the slab on this pitch all the way to the ledge. Fantastic first multipitch lead by hugo as the bottom bit is rather run out! dont let this put you off as above is some ace climbing
jmills94 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/14

Hidden - Solo rpt - 17/Mar/14

Joshthomas - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/14

Anna Yorke - AltLd - 17/Mar/14 with Alex Riley

Made an absolute mess of the first scrambly pitch, ending up in the wrong place. Led through the second pitch which seemed very bold for a VDiff - some improvisation required to find runners. Climbed in glorious sunshine. Was worried that a sheep stuck on the ledge was going to jump onto my head!
Trevers - AltLd - 16/Mar/14 with wjcdean

first vdiff of the season and a bit of a shambles. The less said about hte first pitch the better (you idiot, Trevs). the rest is good climbing although on horrific protection, glad i wasnt leading P2 (well redeemed, Trevs!). A sheep stuck on y Borfa was stamping his feet at me as I topped out, glad he didnt feel the need to butt me off his territory
wjcdean - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Trevers

Not a great route in January. P1 was slimy, vegetated, muddy and lichenous followed by a bold and steep wall. Freezing fingers and a hailstorm meant we bailed at the holly. Not VD at all.
Babika - AltLd dnf - 19/Jan/14 with Julian Bridle

A sunny spell lulled us into a false sense of security. Bailed at the first (official) belay with wet, numb hands when the hail started falling having already turned it into two pitches. As soon as we abbed down the sun came out again!
JulianB - AltLd dnf - 19/Jan/14 with Babika

with MagsB & JonP. A little cold and damp near the top
Uriah - Lead - 11/Jan/14

Alfie Conn - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13

Club hut meet
bantamdave - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Gary

steven - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Simon Dawson

sdawson1 - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/13 with swifty

Nice and exposed but quite run out. Easy climbing - final pitch is a scramble.
alexcollins123 - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

xusa - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Gareth Borthwick

Joshthomas - AltLd - 01/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/12

Was hungover but still think this is more than vdiff. I lead pitch 1 and 2. Casey did the top. most of the climbing is ran out and on crap gear. would not like to be a vdiff climber and take this on... or perhaps it was the beer gremlins. :-)
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with casey johns

casey johns - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with luke glaister

dansmonkeytroubles - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/12 with John Roberts

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo - 25/Aug/12

ladymuck - 2nd - 23/Aug/12 with Andy Worster

Hidden - 19/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/12

DaveAllen - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Andy Muir

lost.arrow - Lead - 27/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

liverpooldave - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Aaron

avin_a_look - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Dave Stacey

craig h - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12 with Janet Hannah

From the small stance below the crack Pip lead the first pitch proper. He must have run out 12m of rope before he found any gear and the stance is 10m off the ground! Fortunately he has a steady head from lots of hard scrambling experience. Nice pitch but seemed a bit scrappy above. Lovely situation though.
Duncan Beard - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Pip McCarthy

Ows - AltLd - May/12

With severe finish
cem - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Natalia Male Alcalde, Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 06/Nov/11

ewan i - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11 with dave duggan

mandy - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with elf

alaster tonge - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11

Lawrence Eccles - Solo O/S - 04/Jul/11

KevinJ - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Jimmy Q

sdawson1 - 24/Jun/11 with Martin, Ray

Led 1st and last pitch, Lesley did 2nd. First pitch was 150ft with 3 runners, the last 2 were 10ft from the belay. Bold! Brilliant rock. Tried sev finish but backed off
ayuplass - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Lesley, Fred

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Mar/11

With frozen fingers - delicate. Did in 2 pitches, straight up on 2nd pitch with a flake to pull over at the top ... HS 4b move?
Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Pat

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

lisafer - 2011

Adrianw - AltLd dnf - 17/Oct/10 with Sarah Hawker

I led to beside the holly tree, then got scared. Managed to drop belay plate in a gorse bush out of reach so brought Adrian up on an italian hitch on one rope, he was too cold to lead on so we bailed out left.
sarah hawker - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/10 with Adrian W

Nordic - AltLd - 26/Sep/10 with Alan Hardie

Very nice, did in 2 pitches, led p 2. Very nice though gear was a little spaced for a vd , all good placements though. Myb worth severe?
tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Dad

Lead P1 - Tom ran P2 and 3 togethor as it started to rain.First pitch has good but spaced pro for a VD
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Bob/Tom

Seconded 2nd pitch. To Honeysuckle Corner from Dorcan.
The Green Giant - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Heather

dansmonkeytroubles - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Steph Duits, Tom Hutton

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/10

2nd pitch
HeatherF - AltLd - 15/Aug/10 with Alex

coffeepot - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with jelaby

ParkFace - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with Jo Fromant

SGD - AltLd - 27/Jun/10 with Vicky Holmes

jossjones - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10

Took a short early belay at end of wet scramble before starting on the rib. I think this helps avoid rope drag through heather and gorsey veg. Led pitch 1,2 and 4. Superb quality route-very little gear but no hard moves and thoroughly enjoyable.
Ann S - AltLd O/S - 02/May/10 with Carole

cas smerdon - AltLd - 02/May/10 with Ann Shaw

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/10

Led P1 and P3 (Severe variant - definitely much, MUCH better than the VDiff finish)
groovy_nut - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Patrick

Hidden - Lead - Apr/10

Led all 3 pitches with the Severe finish.
ashsleight - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Ratty and Phil

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

mikelaing - Lead - Dec/09 with Carolyn

Lovely climb but sparse on gear
trish1968 - Lead - 11/Sep/09 with Terry, Si

Terentius - 2nd - 11/Sep/09 with Simon Davies, Trish Mellor

sjdg5 - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Terry, trish1968

Gear thin on pitch 2. Climbed as a three
overexposure - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Ki, LB

krusty23 - 2nd - 05/Sep/09 with overexposure, Lou Beetlestone

Frank Blakeley - AltLd - 05/Sep/09 with Ian

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/09

alt leads, i did number 2, rich finished severe variation.
gh84 - AltLd - Aug/09

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Phil Cundy

Struggled on the first section after slipping on some mud then pulling having a large crystal snap off in hand. Gear is a little lacking, especially on the lower section. Having said this it's a superb route up a stunning line - especially good with the severe finish, which I found easier than the lower bottom of pitch one. Excellent route but beware of some friable rock.
abercolin - Lead dog - 24/May/09 with Hayley Riggs

hayleylouise - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Colin Riggs

berry - Lead - May/09 with simon

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/09

richw2k2 - AltLd - 13/Apr/09 with Andy T

Moniawl - 2nd - 13/Apr/09 with andy t & richw2k2

I led pitch 1 and 2, Claire took top pitch
snakebite - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Claire Sheehan

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/09

fingermagic - 2nd - 01/Mar/09 with Allan

Climbed as a three on twin ropes.Gear on middle pitch is a little intricate (for a VD!) and requires small wires and cams. Looks bigger than it feels when you are on in.
overexposure - 2009 with Ki, LB

Frank Blakeley - AltLd - 05/Nov/08 with Ian

Matt - BodyPoint - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Andrew Wood

JCB42 - AltLd - 08/Sep/08 with James Turner

Hidden - Lead - 18/Aug/08

Led pitches 2&3 (very quickly to escape the midges!)
Whealiebob - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/08 with Stee & Terry

great climb, though bold and tough for VD. and midge infested.
Milne - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/08 with Dave

Hidden - 07/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/08

My first Multipitch. Wet and squelchy walk in and out in the rain, with plenty of water filled holds to boot. I think we must of run this as 3 pitches, I led P2.
tommcdonna - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Steve Culverhouse

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Tom McDonna

fizzychewitt - Lead - 28/Jun/08

michael burrows - 2nd - 28/Jun/08 with liz hewitt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/08

1st & last pitches, quite taxing in big boots. Explored the mines afterwards.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/08 with Corky

took the servere on the last pitch, a bit grassy in places but nice finish
Mike Soulby - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08

Brown - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/08

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Nov/07

Neil Metcalfe101 - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with Allan Mac & Peter Vaughn.

lacking gear on the first part of the first pitch
Neilfrherts - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Sean

joe larner - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/07

first pitch is challenging
tanssop - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Julie

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/07

P1 and P3
rd20 - AltLd - 24/Aug/07 with Martin

smolders - AltLd - 24/Aug/07 with Robert D

A bit overgrown and and wee bit damp as it hasnt catch the sun much on the day we went up. Little bit alcking in gear but a good work out and fairly enjoyable
stephen Rowley - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/07 with Bob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/07

Its taken me 33 years to complete this route! I first tried the route when I was 17, fell off above the holly tree and hit the ground sustaining fractures to my spine, knee cap, and ankle. 33 years later, in the dry, with modern protection I was successful!!!
Stephen Roberts - AltLd - Aug/07 with Les Jennings

felt run out for grade
Ian Broome - Lead - 10/Jul/07 with Tanya

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/07

hazeysunshine - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/07

Karlos - Lead - 06/May/07 with Rebecca

nathan_kelly - 2nd - May/07 with Fruit Bat, Steve Wilcox

Hidden - Lead - May/07

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Feb/07

fran04 - AltLd - 2007

Joe Miller - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/06 with Dave, Tim

Dry Rock
Thomas Healing - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/06

Phil Jennings - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/06 with James Brown

Big Steve - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Dan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

ZA - AltLd - Aug/05 with steve copplestone, Sofka

Rampikino - Lead - 28/May/05 with MMC Various

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - May/05

Hidden - Lead - 2005

sgl0jd - Lead - Oct/04 with Tim Jones

D Berry - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/04 with Claire Berry

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/04

top 2 pitches after Condor
Marq - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/04 with Daniel Dennehy, Jon Moulding

andygreen - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/03

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/02

oscaig - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Steve Reeves

alan moore - 2000

Martyn - AltLd - Apr/98 with Rob Boylin

Hidden - Solo - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/97

Ian Archer - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/96 with Tony Morris

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/96

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/95

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

pete_fewings - Lead O/S - 1995

steve prior - AltLd - Aug/94 with Roz C

stokienomad - Lead - 19/Jun/94

malc - AltLd - 16/Apr/94

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 16/Aug/93

auld al - Solo O/S - May/93

Hidden - 1993

Good route
Fiskavaig - Lead - 1993 with Steve Ben

Hidden - Solo - 23/Nov/91

Iain Thow - Solo rpt - 13/Apr/91

First pitch only - lacing up pre-placed gear
timreynolds - Lead - 26/Sep/90 with Andy Phillips

babymoac - Lead - 26/Nov/89 with Ronan

Rog Wilko - Lead - Aug/89 with Debbie Wilkinson

sdht - 1989

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 28/May/88 with Nick Gregory

nigehughes - AltLd - Apr/88 with John Arnott

Hammy - Solo - 02/Aug/87

Great route on amazing bubbly rock.
Iain Thow - Lead - 16/May/87 with Richard Holmes

Simon2005 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/86 with KevG

lithos - Lead - Nov/85 with mark planner

Nigel Bond - Lead - 05/Aug/84 with Rodger Edenborough

Hidden - Jan/80

rogerskews - AltLd - 02/Apr/78 with Martin Coward

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/77

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 29/Feb/76 with Mike Ward

mikej - AltLd - 29/Feb/76 with Malcolm Parker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/74

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, sting

Total votes cast 76
hard HVD4 of 41
HVD1 of 41
easy HVD16 of 41
hard VD8 of 41
VD12 of 41
easy VD0 of 41
hard HD0 of 41
HD0 of 41
easy HD0 of 41
3 Stars5 of 35
2 Stars19 of 35
1 Star10 of 35
0 Stars1 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat