18m. Perhaps Almscliff's most famous classic. The steep corner leads to the roof and a large spike, traverse left into an exposed position and pull into a short crack with difficulty (hidden holds?). From a rest on the uncomfortable pedestal, finish up a short crack or, MUCH better, head right up the jamming crack on Western Front - the icing on the cake. Be aware of rope drag problems. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the corner below the overhang till it is possible to take the horizontal break on the left. Follow this till it is possible to climb up into the niche at the end (cramped rest). Then decide either to climb up the original awkward crack above and slightly left or much better climb 'The Five Star Finish', which takes the steep crack up and out right in a magnificent position
Ticklists: A day out with Dolphin, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, CUMC Ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Pure class! Amazing flow of handjams and slopey footholds with just enough friction. Placed three pieces of gear, which was enough to protect (one green BD cam and two yellows). Can't really claim a proper onsight as had reversed the traverse as part of the Girdle just before this but who cares. One of the best single pitch routes around and I'm not even into grit! Took the 5 star finish, I can see why it's called that!
|Steve Andrews||11/Oct||Lead O/S||
After struggling pulling up out of the traverse and not wanting to leave the rest point took the 5* finish which turned out to be a delight and the icing on the cake! awesome route, climbed on two ropes
One of the three.
|scott quinn||20/Sep||Lead O/S|
RH finish - pumpy warm up!
|andy jennings||10/Sep||2nd β||
Did with the five star finish
have wanted to solo this for a while. Never been brave enough before
Fun. Good gear the whole way. Don't hang around too long on the traverse.
|Owen W-G||06/Aug||2nd O/S||
Finally slain the demon!
seconded to help remove gear for other climbers, managed half before stopping, gear left was good for western front
|Hannes B||25/Jul||Solo rpt|
Teappleby, Shaun Humphreys
went up with stu dan and dave after 1st party in 3 newport gardens was fun pumpy
|tim newton||23/Jun||Lead O/S|
|Rachel Slater||23/Jun||2nd rpt|
|Morgan P||15/Jun||Lead rpt||
Finally did it clean!
|nick ferro||12/Jun||2nd rpt||
|sarah hawker||?/Jun||2nd dog||
Volunteered to second for some students who wanted gear back from under the big roof. Fell off the traverse and had to be hauled up the E3
bob, Random climbers
|Matt Cooke||04/May||Lead O/S||
|Dave Mayes||17/Apr||Lead O/S|
Took a fall / rest at the end of the traverse, far too pumped
|Matt Harmon||09/Nov/14||Lead O/S|
|Lawrence Beesley-Peck||09/Nov/14||Lead O/S||
Finally off my mind. A winner.
|lanky and weak||17/Oct/14||Solo rpt|
Chris Down, Bex
|Morgan P||04/Oct/14||Lead dog||
Took 2 rests on the cam on the hand traverse after being 100% sure the hidden hold was ...not where the hidden hold was. Even had the energy for the move into the rest if I wasn't faffing with the not-the-good-hold trying to find the good bit. I will do this clean.
|Alex Hallam||27/Sep/14||2nd O/S||
Such a classic.
Lived up to the reputation, quite juggy throughout.
John P, Dave
|david morse||26/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
With right hand finish. Awesome
|ian d f||20/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
rested on traverse, great holds moving into box to just keep going
|chris smith||08/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Awesome route, pumpy in the middle, just keep moving.
Amazing, it's been 'the route' I've wanted to do ever since my first trip to the cliff. But always been put off by being told it was hard/scary! Was actually fine and easy climbing in the end. A good Dolphin VS!
One of the best HVS I've ever climbed. Need to go back and lead it now.
|David Stevens||27/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
James Turner, Keith
Did this yesterday having put it off for far too long. Good holds all the way. Also the 'hidden holds' are not hidden, you can see them from the ground. I just thought I would say so to avoid people groping around forever trying to find something that doesn't exist.
With 5 star finish
Holy cow, what a route!! Did the original finish as the other way was wet. Felt fairly straightforward but a little pumpy. Even climbed it twice as bex didn't fancy seconding it.
|Luke Jones||01/Jul/14||2nd dog||
|Nick Russell||26/May/14||Lead O/S||
With the '5 star finish', now the norm in the YMC guide.
Managed the traverse but not enough strength in my arms to continue up. Amazing exposure on the climb.
|lewis talbot||30/Apr/14||Lead β||
Awesome climb loved it :D
|K Mckay||24/Apr/14||2nd dnf||
Struggling to remove gear under the roof made me too pumped to complete the traverse. I couldn't find the hidden pocket either...I'll be back.
|Tony Holdsworth||20/Apr/14||2nd rpt||
|Jim Slater||12/Apr/14||Lead rpt||
Right hand finish.
|Jonathan Richardson||11/Apr/14||Lead rpt|
|Oliver Branagan||09/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
Finally. Relationship with the crag feels more deeply bonded now.
|Martin Bagshaw||31/Mar/14||Lead dog||
Buggered up the top bit, should have rested up dammit!
Fell (or rather dropped off !)on move up to niche. Got it clean on second attempt- five star finish. Great route.
|Ed carrigan||12/Jan/14||Lead O/S||
quality route ! bout time i did it !
|Frank the Husky||??/2014||-|
with five star finish
|nigel pearson||21/Dec/13||2nd O/S||
steep and good.
Been waiting to do this for so long, amazing climb
Rested just before crux as I couldn't feel my hands as so cold. Should have just pushed on.
Such a classic
|Richard P Coates||16/Nov/13||2nd rpt|
Remember seeing this route the first time I came to Almscliff four years ago, just after starting to lead. Tom pointed it out and I remember thinking it looked nigh on impossible. Turns out it's not so bad. Fantastic climbing on jugs all the way, made all the better by having lots of good friends at the bottom to will me up it. Topped out to see a rainbow in the next field and a stunning view. Climbing doesn't get much better.
Will Evans, Dan Boast
|Richard P Coates||01/Oct/13||2nd rpt|
|Mike Todd||?/Oct/13||Lead O/S||
|John Brayshaw||25/Sep/13||Lead dog|
|John Brayshaw||25/Sep/13||2nd dog|
|Tony Holdsworth||25/Sep/13||Lead rpt||
5 star finish
|lanky and weak||24/Sep/13||Solo O/S||
|Richard P Coates||22/Sep/13||2nd O/S|
Done it before but still very good
Gutted to fall. Nearly had it. couldn't fully recover after the traverse. then seconded my own climb w.ith a lot more ease
|Sophie Nunn||11/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Wow, wow, wow! Lived up to the hype!
|James Oakes||10/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
1st attempted in 2012,bottled the traverse. Lead today to complete the 3 3star HVS's in a night
|Keith Swainson||21/Jul/13||Lead O/S|
|Phill Mitch||18/Jul/13||2nd rpt|
|keith leonard||16/Jul/13||Lead dog|
Five Star Finish
|Graham Booth||21/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
blew the first attempt getting the sequence to the hidden hold wrong - couldnt reach it. probably fairly stupid not to warm up first too. lobbed off, lowered off, pulled the rope got it right next attempt. lovely route, will do again with 5 star finish next time :-)
|Anne Gumbley||12/Jun/13||2nd dog|
End of the day, didn't finish the traverse, Theo didn't want to follow and abbed for gear.
best climb so far
Three times in one night
|Andrew Wilson||03/Jun/13||2nd rpt||
Did the 5 star finish this time!
|Dan Geh||22/May/13||Lead O/S||
Found the traverse very pumpy. Finished up the five star finish.
Amazing, will certainly come back to lead this! Good job Jared!
Jared Kitchen, Whiskey tom, Pete
|Laurence Cowton||20/Apr/13||2nd dog||
|Hannes B||13/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Sara, Emmsi, Rik
Got really pumped trying to remove gear on the first attempt, and had to be lowered down. Seconded cleanly on the second attempt, but still found it incredibly strenuous and pumpy - not something that I'd easily or happily lead.
|Andrew Wilson||07/Apr/13||Lead O/S|
|Glenn Sutcliffe||17/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Grimey and thoroughly unenjoyable second
|Chris Redding||17/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Epic route, glad I got persuaded into doing it. Glad again I did the 5 star finish. felt good to be that exposed
Cold fingers, 5 star finish.
Lost the coin toss, so seconded an absolutely superb climb with the 5* finish. Top stuff, can't wait to get the lead on it!
|Tom Peeper||20/Oct/12||Lead O/S|
Well done Tibor! You bagged it at last in good style
|Tom Folley||15/Sep/12||2nd dnf|
Fantastic route, fully deserving of it's 4 stars
Brilliant and much easier than expected.
|belay bunny turned bad||28/Aug/12||Lead|
|Rachel Somerville||02/Aug/12||Lead O/S|
With the five star finish, just amazing as always. A big storm came in as I was halfway along the traverse, ended up hiding in the cave as it rained, then climbed the five star finish in the wet! Loved it!!
Ran out of steam at the end of the traverseand then spotted the great big hold a foot above my head.....climb quicker, faff less!
|Calum Wadsworth||22/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
5 star finish, awesome
Easier than expected but still pumpy. 5 Star finish
|Harry Holmes||14/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
|Dafydd Llywelyn||25/Jun/12||2nd rpt|
|Nick Nitro||09/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
RLT Course (SPA Training) Feet in wrong position to do crux move. Once I was off couldn't get back into the wall. Awesome will definatly lead climb next time.
Five star finish. Pumpy for HVS!
Followed by The Five Star Finish. Pleased I have finally got on and made it. Good route! Both my second and myself felt it was a grade harder - E1 5b. Did I miss something, maybe?
|Graham Westbrook||17/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
|Matt Harle||11/Mar/12||Lead O/S||
|Tom Wayman||??/2012||2nd dnf|
|Tom Keaveny||31/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
5 star finish
Awesome climb, got too pumped after the hand traverse and needed a break.
Wild climbing! Very pumped attempting the last serious moves, very exciting.
Brilliant. More pumpy than expected!
|Dino Dave||27/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
5* Finish... Lovely positive holds all the way! Loved it!
with the 5-star finish but also did the original finish via Western Front.
Climbed with Jo Banner.
|Mr Fuller||03/Sep/11||2nd dog||
Took ten minutes to get a piece of gear out then was too pumped to pull through the roof.
Lizzie Wilkins, Andy Parsons
|Paul Eckton||13/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
|Andy Peak 1||05/Aug/11||Lead||
The very best but qwite esey once you comit
had a bit of a rest at the top of the first crack, still quite pleased to get up it.
Hugh Bradley, Dickon Morris
totally not what i have expected.Got to come back next week and try it again ahhh!!!
|Tony Holdsworth||28/Jun/11||Lead rpt||
5 star finish
weighted rope at crux move from traverse to pocket
|Darrell Read||25/Jun/11||Lead dog||
Rested on gear to try and get a stuck cam out. Top route - one to go back and do clean with the rh finish.
Great climb, with lots of nice big holds.
|Will Hunt||16/Jun/11||2nd rpt||
Good effort, Daf.
|Dafydd Llywelyn||16/Jun/11||Lead rpt||
Cheers Will... chuffed, 5* next year!
absolutely amazing route, deserves every one of its 4 stars, the 5 star finish well worth doing, much better than the jamming crack around the corner!
Classic. Traverse was intimidating. Well chuffed to manage a smooth lead, but chickened out of the 5* finish. It actually looked okay from the top.
|Rachel Slater||16/Apr/11||2nd rpt|
|John Brayshaw||27/Mar/11||Lead dog|
|Jack Loftus||27/Mar/11||Lead β|
|andy mcc||23/Mar/11||Lead dog||
One rest on rope at end of traverse before the secret jug
Davina & Matt
Clean lead - but looking forward to doing it when it's a bit warmer! and still got the 5 star finish to look forward to :)
|Mark Riley||16/Oct/10||Lead O/S|
|Mr. K||16/Oct/10||Lead dnf|
|Dave Warburton||25/Sep/10||Lead O/S||
Quality but is it really worthy of all the hype? This and the 5* finish are good, *** climbing, but there is better, much better.
Really this is a 4 star route. On eof teh best HVS on grit I have ever done absolutely tremendous
Yes. 4 stars.
Beauty climb, been putting it off for ages!!
|Tony Holdsworth||03/Aug/10||2nd rpt||
|Anthony Dixon||03/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
|ed edwards||?/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
tim bateson, richard coupland
Great climb lead it years ago but was pleased to have done it again. The original finish is harder than the 5* finish
Gutted, ran out of strength and rested on the traverse
Made the traverse left from the corner to the inverted y-crack, bottled it, made the traverse back....get a grip rich. I think the universal mind game here is 'do I have enough left to pro up and move, or will i peel in trying to do so and take the swing in the process'.
5 star finish. Big grin.
Classic. Nice rest halfway up, making this feel like 2 short routes.
|adi bryant||14/May/10||Lead O/S||
Fabrizio Della Rossa
Right hand 4 star finish. Wow what a fantastic climb. I cant wait to do it again and again especially hanging out on the pinacle!
|Ewan Russell||22/Apr/10||Lead RP||
failed to lead this before.
After all the hype, felt pretty easy. Managed to stuff a few cams in along the traverse. Brilliant route.
|Rob Laird||03/Apr/10||Lead dog|
|simon kimber||?/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
5* finish this time around, fantastic.
|chris smith||04/Mar/10||Lead O/S|
|ross hold||??/2010||Lead O/S|
Whizzed the 5 star finish. What a brilliant climb.
|Andy Graham||??/2010||Lead O/S||
Andy Quinn, Mike Quinn
smashed the layback on the crack!!! first time id even done a layback !!! traverse i done ok was a little pumped after then got into the wrong position after the traverse and got a bit stuck ran out of steam and bailed, didnt have time to revisit (rlt course)but loved it all the same
|Mike Quin||?/Nov/09||Lead β||
A favourite when starting out on top rope. Worked towards leading this all year. Not as scary as tower face at stanage. 2 camalot 3's very helpful
|Laurence Everitt||31/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
Such an amazing climb, one of the best I've done!
|Rachel Slater||17/Oct/09||2nd β||
|Graeme Hammond||17/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
EXCELLENT what else can you say? with 5* finish :D
Pete aka Dad
More sustained than expected, but there is a great rest after the traverse. Did the normal finish - pleased to get it done - big tick!
|andrew sandercock||13/Sep/09||Lead RP||
feel off it first go after the traverse trying to get over the bulge bit, got it second time around and did pretty much all of it on jams (i was laughed at for this?). very pleased to have ticked it!
One I had wanted to do for a long long time, probably my most anticipated route ever! Decided to give it a crack, whyever not?! Got up, wussied out of laybacking the crack, came back down a little, committed to the easy layback moves up into the thread (which I didnt notice). Reached across right, put in a cam as far as I could along the break. And quickly ran across the traverse. Then the mess. I reached round the corner to the hidden pocket, realised I was turned the wrong way, crossed through to a jam and then left hand up onto the top of the ear. Up into the niche. How could anyone say that is a poor rest? I was literally lieing on it with no hands, must be being ironic I guess! Did the 5 star finish just to get the full effect, I love hanging jamming cracks and this one is in such a great position with a cool heel-hook round the right, I hung out and just admired the view before topping out. Brilliant, worth the wait and its weight in gold!
|andy gravestock||08/Jul/09||2nd β||
retreiving gear for allex after taking taking the piss out off dilll pickle (BILLY)..SUPER ROUTE.
|Alex Winter||01/Jul/09||Lead O/S|
|Dave Foster||19/Jun/09||2nd rpt||
Big lob from Andy on lead. Got it second go ground up.
Fairly straight forward. Not that sustained but with a bigish move at the end ofthe traverse.
|Peter Holder||13/May/09||Lead O/S||
I've put this off for years but still it put up a worthy fight. Good route.
Absolutely horrible route to second. One of the few routes I can lead but can't second....
|Johnny B Diggerman||21/Apr/09||TR dnf||
Great start tricky traverse burnt arms out by the end of it. Will have to go back when fresh.
|jonny taylor||15/Apr/09||Lead RP||
Took a huge swing on the traverse, then climbed clean after getting hints about the hidden hold. Took several tries to commit to the final jams in a howling gale.
must of done something wrong because by the end of the traverse I was pumped to high heaven
Davina, Nick, John, Sian
|Martin Haworth||21/Sep/08||Lead O/S|
|Si dH||03/Aug/08||2nd rpt||
A pumpy little number if you try to place gear in the wrong place!Two revolvers helped with the potential drag.TOP ROUTE!!
jim from the wall
Five Star Finish
|Dave Foster||?/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
Good... but not great. Been leaving this for AGES and think I made the sin of waiting until I was too fit.. if that makes any sense. 5 star finish.
|Will Hunt||16/May/08||Lead RP||
After Dave Smith's monstrous fall!
5 Star Finish.
|Si dH||30/Mar/08||Lead dog||
Felt quite good at the top of the crack, but pumped out straight away whe nthe footholds ran out on the traverse. Got it eventually after placing more gear in the short vertical crack and resting a couple more times - final move to the spike felt quite goey but I'll definitely get it properly next attempt. Didnt find hidden hold - no idea where it is?!? Finished straight up - will save 5 star finish for a clean ascent!
Neil, Mark, Rich
Right hand finish, Wild.
Fantastic. Seconded it last year and gave it my best this time, but got too pumped on traverse to make final reach and couldn't feel my fingers due to the cold. Got back on the diagonal break to the traverse again and finished clean.
|Mark Walter||24/Feb/08||2nd O/S|
|Andy Moles||09/Feb/08||Lead dog||
Rested halfway across the traverse
|Adam Moroz||20/Jan/08||Lead dnf||
Hands got too cold, arms got too pumped, not route fit at moment after too much bouldering and not enough leading. Didn't place any gear on the traverse, didn't see the big obvious jug got too pumped and scurried all the way back across the traverse and then fell off.
Must lead it.
|Will Hunt||25/Nov/07||Lead dog||
Very annoying. Climbed the right route this time but the cold got the better of my fingers and soon didnt know what I was pulling on. Got lost again! Used the top break instead of the lower break. Reversed and used the lower break. Got to just before the pinnacle and, in my tunnel vision, completely missed the MASSIVE jug that was staring me down on the right hand of the final groove. Reversed rested, warmed up hands, got back on it, eventually found the jug. Finished with difficulty up the final jamming crack.
Yeah pretty good, but not a huge fan of traverses and with the normal finish surely not that good?
Arms absolutely shot by the time I got to the crux. Must do this route first thing before playing on other good climbs here.Gravity and lactic acid beat me that day. Nice gritstone rash though.
What a Climb!! Got our gear out, Eventually!!
|Nick Taylor||01/Sep/07||Lead rpt|
|Simon Perry||27/Jul/07||Lead dnf||
Came off at the end of the traverse.
Feeling very unfit, had to rest.
Amazing climb, decided stupidly to campus along traverse and wasted my energy, well worth the stars, a definate lead if I ever return.
|Simon Perry||04/Jun/07||2nd O/S||
|joe larner||19/May/07||Lead O/S|
|Tim Steward||22/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
|dave o||21/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
agreed, its a great route
|Aussie Mick||17/Apr/07||AltLd dog||
Simon lead up to the traverse, where he had issues with a cam in a hand hold and decided to sit for a while before lowering off. I climbed up on Simon's gear then dogged my way accross and up to a nice seat under the final moves. After sitting there for a while getting hit with 1000km/h winds I decided to roll up my sleeves and do the final moves on the direct route before my belayer froze. All and All a top climb for a sunny day....
|Simon Perry||17/Apr/07||Lead dnf||
|Simon Perry||17/Apr/07||2nd dog||
|Somerset swede basher||04/Mar/07||Lead O/S||
|Andrew Sloan||04/Feb/07||Lead rpt|
just amazing! well worth the four stars!
|Daniel Armitage||27/Dec/06||Lead O/S||
need to get fit again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|Northen Vince||01/Nov/06||Lead rpt||
Crap. Blew my onsight lead and had terrible style. A bad day to be on a rope.
|Northen Vince||08/Oct/06||Lead dog||
even though this was challenging it was still an amazing climb!
+ 5 star finish.
i've done the start bit before but the finnish is OS
SteveM and Chris
five star cut loose finish baby!
|Alex Mason||?/Apr/05||Lead O/S||
not so great
have done this several times - I always think it's slightly overrated. Too thuggish for my liking to deserve the acolade of "only 4 star route in the boook" ("Yorkshire Gritstone", the best guide book I have ever held)although it is obviously excellent
Gerd Heinz Bentheim, Stewart McConnell
4 star finish. Brilliant climbing
With James and Ben
|Mark Collins||26/May/03||Lead dog||
|Neil Henson||26/May/03||2nd dog||
|Alaister Nurse||??/2003||TR O/S||
1st route on grit - 2 falls.
Never manage to get up it.
|Just Another Dave||06/Jul/02||Lead O/S||
|stevo smith||05/May/02||Lead O/S||
Art.smith belayed! got hand stuck in a jam near top 'got abit flustered n panicky'
|Simon Caldwell||??/2002||2nd dog||
Rested at end of traverse, expecting the next bit to be harder than it was :(
Epic at last light
Still think that Overhanging Groove is a better climb...
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|Jon Read||?/Aug/99||Lead O/S|
|CrashMat Rob||20/Jun/98||Lead O/S|
topped out during lightening storm, crawled off top!
|Charlie Staincliffe||?/May/97||Lead O/S|
|Phill Mitch||??/1997||Lead O/S||
|Andy S||?/Jul/96||Lead O/S|
|Chris Reid||10/Sep/95||Lead O/S|
Used shunt as felt a bit exposed, didnt load the rope though.
Rupert Wyard, Nigel Baker
|adam carless||??/1992||Lead rpt||
Definitely worth doing, just remember to place some gear for your second on the traverse
|Russell Lovett||27/Aug/91||Lead O/S||
viv and kids
|John Southworth||30/Jun/91||Lead O/S|
|Pete Pozman||02/May/90||Lead rpt||
right hand finish
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1990||-|
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||14/Jun/89||Lead|
|Rich Kirby||??/1989||Lead O/S|
|Steve Crowe||09/Jul/87||Lead O/S|
|Pete Pozman||28/Apr/87||2nd rpt||
|Colin Matheson||?/Aug/86||2nd dnf||
|Pete Pozman||14/Jul/86||Lead rpt||
Left hand finish
|Andy Say||11/Sep/85||Lead O/S|
|Derek Ryden||??/1980||Lead O/S||