Fehrmann/Vinatzer** IV+
155m, 4 pitches. Numerous variations exist (hence the two different first ascent dates). The rock is polished in places. The route describes uses the original start.
Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower. Drop right into the gully then follow a large ledge right under Torre Stabeler for 10m to a thread.
1) II, 30m. Climb direct for 15m then follow a short ledge right to a corner; climb this to another ledge with detached boulders. Climb over these then continue direct to the stance on a ledge.
2) IV-, 25m. Climb a slab direct then move right (numerous threads) and climb a short chimney to a stance below a slanting corner (all alternative starts enter here).
3) IV, 30m. Climb the corner, which slants right then continues direct, then follow the continuation chimney, exiting right below a yellow niche and continuing in a corner direct for a few metres to reach a ledge.
4) IV+, 25m. Move left (ignoring the smaller corner above the belay) to the classic corner, well-protected with pegs and wedged nuts. Move right at the top to a stance below an overhang.
5) IV-, 20m. Traverse below the overhang for 6m then climb an easier crack direct to a ledge. Alternatively, take the steep crack above direct (harder at V).
6) IV, 30m. Move left, descending for a couple of metres to reach the base of the final corner. Climb this then follow the easier chimney to a notch.
7) IV-, 10m. Climb left from the saddle to reach the summit. © ROCKFAX

South Face, Stabeler Tower.


Rudolf Fehrmann, Oliver Perry-Smith Aug/1908
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Abseiled from the second stance due to incoming storm. The Vinatzer start is a hard overhanging yellow crack.
Alessandro Tentori - AltLd dnf - 11/Aug/14 with Luca Gasparini

Mike Turner - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Steve Culverhouse

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Mike Turner

We pitched up to the start of the chimney line from the gap with the delago tower. The IV+ 2nd chimney pitch looked dank but had some great bridging and holds. Got buzzed by a tourist helicopter on the summit!
brianrunner - AltLd - 23/Jul/13 with martina

John Nuttall - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Sharon

guy757 - 16/Sep/11

Good Route. Seconded Pete (BMG). Would have been an OK lead apart from a couple of sections (Chimney and difficult crag).
Hotcake - 2nd - Sep/11 with Snowy

Em66 - AltLd - Jun/11 with Mat

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/10 with John Inkpen

zach.stone - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Peter Hill

theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Zach Stone

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10

climbed an easier line to the right, in the pitch dark, with head torches, seconding star man Pietro Rago from the Rifugio Alberto, to rescue Pierce and Dave who'd got their ropes stuck at the top!
ripper - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Tarquin - Lead - Jun/09

halhorner - AltLd - 12/Aug/07 with Trevor Witts

jev - 2006 with jonas

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with eddie church

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/04

Tombauer - AltLd - Jul/04 with James Gomez

Thunderstorm started as we topped out. Interesting and cold descent.
davidbeynon - AltLd - 17/Jul/03 with Jon Knott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/02

Almost the venue for the opening of the film "Cliffhanger" Agree with the grade
rogerskews - 06/Aug/92 with Phil

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ian Archer

Voting
Total votes cast 10
hard V-0 of 5
V-1 of 5
easy V-0 of 5
hard IV+3 of 5
IV+0 of 5
easy IV+0 of 5
hard IV1 of 5
IV0 of 5
easy IV0 of 5
3 Stars0 of 5
2 Stars5 of 5
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dnf