155m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Numerous variations exist (hence the two different first ascent dates). The rock is polished in places. The route describes uses the original start.
Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower. Drop right into the gully then follow a large ledge right under Torre Stabeler for 10m to a thread.
1) II, 30m. Climb direct for 15m then follow a short ledge right to a corner; climb this to another ledge with detached boulders. Climb over these then continue direct to the stance on a ledge.
2) IV-, 25m. Climb a slab direct then move right (numerous threads) and climb a short chimney to a stance below a slanting corner (all alternative starts enter here).
3) IV, 30m. Climb the corner, which slants right then continues direct, then follow the continuation chimney, exiting right below a yellow niche and continuing in a corner direct for a few metres to reach a ledge.
4) IV+, 25m. Move left (ignoring the smaller corner above the belay) to the classic corner, well-protected with pegs and wedged nuts. Move right at the top to a stance below an overhang.
5) IV-, 20m. Traverse below the overhang for 6m then climb an easier crack direct to a ledge. Alternatively, take the steep crack above direct (harder at V).
6) IV, 30m. Move left, descending for a couple of metres to reach the base of the final corner. Climb this then follow the easier chimney to a notch.
7) IV-, 10m. Climb left from the saddle to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
South Face, Stabeler Tower.

Rudolf Fehrmann, Oliver Perry-Smith Aug/1908

gringo1804 09/Sep Lead O/S

With Henry Gent. The VI+ corner looked harder than it actually was. Abseiled down between Stabeler and Delago Towers. Ropes got stuck and spent 2 hours on first ledge getting them down with assistance from Hugh Gilbert. Ran to make the bus.

Alessandro Tentori 14/Jul AltLd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
Alessandro Tentori 11/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Abseiled from the second stance due to incoming storm. The Vinatzer start is a hard overhanging yellow crack.

with Luca Gasparini
Mike Turner 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
brianrunner 23/Jul/13 AltLd

We pitched up to the start of the chimney line from the gap with the delago tower. The IV+ 2nd chimney pitch looked dank but had some great bridging and holds. Got buzzed by a tourist helicopter on the summit!

with martina
John Nuttall 06/Jul/13 Lead
with Sharon
guy757 16/Sep/11 -
Hotcake ?/Sep/11 2nd

Good Route. Seconded Pete (BMG). Would have been an OK lead apart from a couple of sections (Chimney and difficult crag).

with Snowy
Em66 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
ChrisBrooke 10/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
zach.stone 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
ripper 27/Jun/10 2nd

climbed an easier line to the right, in the pitch dark, with head torches, seconding star man Pietro Rago from the Rifugio Alberto, to rescue Pierce and Dave who'd got their ropes stuck at the top!

Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
halhorner 12/Aug/07 AltLd
with Trevor Witts
jev ??/2006 -
with Jonas
dan gibson ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with eddie church
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Tombauer ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 06/Aug/92 -

Almost the venue for the opening of the film "Cliffhanger" Agree with the grade

with Phil
Andy Say 26/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ian Archer
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set