Rockfax Description
Numerous variations exist (hence the two different first ascent dates). The rock is polished in places. The route describes uses the original start.
Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower. Drop right into the gully then follow a large ledge right under Torre Stabeler for 10m to a thread.
1) II, 30m. Climb direct for 15m then follow a short ledge right to a corner; climb this to another ledge with detached boulders. Climb over these then continue direct to the stance on a ledge.
2) IV-, 25m. Climb a slab direct then move right (numerous threads) and climb a short chimney to a stance below a slanting corner (all alternative starts enter here).
3) IV, 30m. Climb the corner, which slants right then continues direct, then follow the continuation chimney, exiting right below a yellow niche and continuing in a corner direct for a few metres to reach a ledge.
4) IV+, 25m. Move left (ignoring the smaller corner above the belay) to the classic corner, well-protected with pegs and wedged nuts. Move right at the top to a stance below an overhang.
5) IV-, 20m. Traverse below the overhang for 6m then climb an easier crack direct to a ledge. Alternatively, take the steep crack above direct (harder at V).
6) IV, 30m. Move left, descending for a couple of metres to reach the base of the final corner. Climb this then follow the easier chimney to a notch.
7) IV-, 10m. Climb left from the saddle to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
South Face, Stabeler Tower.

Rudolf Fehrmann, Oliver Perry-Smith Aug/1908.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip

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