UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Rockfax Description
An awkward climb with only a couple of bolts but it is clean due to it being the easiest on the crag. Move up ledges to an overhang capped corner (bolt). Move right and up to another ledge and bolt above. Finish up the flake crack. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
raussmf 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Got to the top ledge, very run out, holds were soaked, bailed. Did not enjoy this!
βeta?
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βeta: Got to the top ledge, very run out, holds were soaked, bailed. Did not enjoy this!
eldre070 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No way is this Grade 3.
Show beta
βeta: No way is this Grade 3.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

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High 4b
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Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
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