UKC

Restricted Access

Early in the nesting season please be aware that there could be nesting ravens on unrestricted cliffs and if spotted please chose another route.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

New Restrictions are as followed, these have been agreed with the RSPB and members of the BMC. Full restrictions are in place from the 1st of Febuary until the 31st July on the following crags:

Back of bay between Trwyn y Ffosle and Trwyn Melyn

Fisherman’s Zawn    OS Ref 287241

Chinatown Zawn OS Ref 287239

Trwyn y Fulfran Slabs  OS Ref 287238

Black Bay OS Ref 288237

Through Cave Area OS Ref 291235

Multi Storey Wall OS Ref 294232

Mur y Môr OS Ref 294232

Trwyn Cilan Zawn OS Ref 294230 

Crystal Zawn SH 29329 

Vatican Zawn  OS Ref 295231

 

There are some Areas that have split restrictions. 

Paitsh South Bay - No Restrictions to the left of the Abseil Line, but restrictions as above up to and including Springboard ridge. 

Zawn One - No Restrictions above the boulder slope then restricted as above for all climbs below sloping terrace. 

 

There are short restrictions from the 1st of April, to June 30th at the following locations. 

Paitsh North Bay - No restrictions to Hornblower Spur then a short restriction. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , The Road to Shibboleth , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Extreme Girdle

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User Date Notes
Alex Mason 15 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: abseil is totally bomber... confused about existing descriptions here.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: abseil is totally bomber... confused about existing descriptions here.
Dom Mackenzie 1 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The stakes protect the top out, the abseil is further round and the stake that's alluded to in the GroundUp seems to have gone walkies.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The stakes protect the top out, the abseil is further round and the stake that's alluded to in the GroundUp seems to have gone walkies.

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High E4
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High E3
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High E2
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Votes cast 33
High 6a
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Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Route of Interest
Cripple Creek

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Craig Doris)

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