July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
Climb the groove up to the right-hand side of the large roof and continue to a lower-off on the large flake. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
On the level just above looning the tube...Climbs the groove to the right hand side of the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way to a lower off on the large flake above the roof.
currently (April 2011) loose spike just below 2nd bolt
I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett, T Hughes 27/Aug/2007.
Slate Roofs , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+ , Starred Slate Sport Sixes , Sl@teheads Sl@te
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tlmarjot | 30 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: I pulled the crucial side pull off on the crux... the grade will now be harder! | ||
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βeta: I pulled the crucial side pull off on the crux... the grade will now be harder! |
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Derek Ryden | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: You would deck if you fell off whilst clipping the second bolt - needs another placing between the two. Still too much loose rock to be good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You would deck if you fell off whilst clipping the second bolt - needs another placing between the two. Still too much loose rock to be good. |
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sidneyleedham | 20 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: the loose block below the roof has now been removed | βeta? | |
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βeta: the loose block below the roof has now been removed |
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jrobinson | 8 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Do not pull on the large block to the left hand side of the over hang. This should probably be removed for safety. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Do not pull on the large block to the left hand side of the over hang. This should probably be removed for safety. |
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