75m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(Cuckoo Crack) A fine crack high on the sidewall. An easy approach pitch gets you into the gully and up to its base.
1) 3+, 30m. As for Måken Sven. A straightforward pitch up the gully, or the rock to its right, to a belay underneath the crack.
2) 6-, 45m. The easy initial crack leads to tricky moves right and up to gain the main crackline. Climb this by fine sustained moves as it slices up the steep smooth wall. Excellent climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cuckoo Crack. HVS 5a

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Jim Slater 27/Aug Lead O/S

Outstanding main pitch, superb rock, loved it.

with Maia
Hidden 27/Aug AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 17/Aug AltLd O/S

Led main pitch which was up there with some of the best pitches I've ever done and near perfect. Thought it was worth E1 for the hardest moves to gain the crack. Approach pitch is also longer than 30m. Descend from tree (tat) at back of gully on right and 2nd abseil off bolts low down on the right wall of the gully which is hard to spot.

with Becky E
alexm198 16/Aug 2nd O/S

Bloody hell I wish I'd lead this. One of the best lines I've climbed I think. Absolutely superb.

Matt Harle 16/Aug Lead O/S
saaruli 29/Jul AltLd O/S

I lead p1, clean seconding.

with Erik
Hidden 29/Jul AltLd
cem 28/Jul AltLd O/S

Led the main pitch.

with Deniz Sumengen
Mark Kemball 26/Jun 2nd O/S

What a superb pitch!

with Chris Calow
Hidden 26/Jun AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun AltLd O/S
Paul Figg 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Rachel Antill
Pippa 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Really cool flake crack

Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
RAK 26/Jun/14 AltLd

Led P2. Excellent steep climbing.

with Lauri
cameron_hall 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 (main pitch). Tenuous moves to get established, and then a glorious crack. Great fun.

will_benfold 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (someone had to!)

with Cameron
chrisallan 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
valecoastclimber 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Batt 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead p1. V nice. Just before the rain began!

Hoyes 13/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mtempest 13/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P2

Dan Lane 13/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1. 2nd pitch is amazing, after a tricky start (probably 5b) it's delightful jug hauling to the top, a good 50m pitch!

victim of mathematics 06/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led the scrappy first pitch. P2 is outstanding. The crux traverse felt 5b, so 6- might be fair.

with Julie, Andy
climbingpixie 06/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Amazing climbing on the 2nd pitch - just a shame it didn't go on for ever!

with Colin, Andy
Hidden 06/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
cat22 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 04/Jul/11 AltLd
cat22 28/Jun/11 2nd dnf
with Mike
bridget143 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Toby P2 (the real part), absolutly amazing don't come to Lofoten and miss this one!

tobydunford 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 29/Jul/10 2nd
with Andi
mattcyp88 17/Jul/10 Lead β

Felt hard at first but head not really in the right place after slipping in the gully.

with Harry Martin
Pete Nugent 24/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

Chris led p1. but I could not make the tricky move out right into the main crack system on p.2 despite good gear. I checked a slightly higher alternative traverse but the pro was not so good. The Rockfax 2010 gives the route as 5+ but I think a well protected 6 is about right. A disappointing end to our Lofoten trip since the weather was good after 3 days of mist,rain & showers.

with Chris Vernon
jukkasakari 26/May/10 Lead O/S


with O-P Kaurahalme
Dr Caterpillar 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

awesome flake crack, if only it was a bit more sustained. ab from tree at the top (leave tat/maillon or you will get your ropes stuck like we did)

Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 2nd
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led crux: amazing!

with Matt Kemp
Hidden 30/Jul/09 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 29/Jul/09 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
richardlong78 ?/Jul/09 2nd
tuukka 18/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Hanna
AJ007 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 03/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led easy P1

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Alan James - UKC and UKH 15/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Tim W 15/Aug/07 Lead O/S

pink point

Hidden 19/Jun/05 Lead
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Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set