Dolomites > The Falzarego Towers >
 
South Arete,*** VS 4c

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[John Ison leading the first (crux) pitch of Torre Piccola, 3 kb]200m, 6 pitches. Cracking route - well protected - bolted belays, bolts/pegs on most hard moves. Reach the start from either the Passo de Falzarego (traverse along the old military road beneath the path up to the Piccolo Laguzoi) or from the cafe further down towards Cortina. The climb either follows the chimney (harder and a falling rock funnel) or the face (well bolted). It's just about posible to do the first two pitches in one (reaching the arete) on a 60m rope, better, in terms of rope drag, to split these.

Photo: John Ison leading the first (crux) pitch of Torre Piccola © Barry D
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 62 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Fran Sgr - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Jay C

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Fran S

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/13 with Kris

K Wall - Lead - Aug/13 with Martin

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Alice lead 3 pitches
tim exley - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with alice

RobbieT - AltLd O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12

George.nunn1993 - Lead - Aug/12 with Mary dougherty

Pete Pozman - 2nd - 26/Jul/12

7 pitches on Torre Piccola di Falzarego. Great climbing in excellent positions. Threads and pitons/cemented bolts. Started on route to the right as recommended by Nadia, snd joined arete after first pitch.
Swotson - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Ian Athroll

Led alternate pitches from P1
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Huw Goodall

johnpuddephatt - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Matt Ringrose

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

Hidden - Solo - 26/Jan/12

LJC - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with ben.richards

ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Luca Celano

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/11

Harri777 - AltLd - Aug/11 with Naomi

NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Harri!

First 2 pitches only then backed off due to rain and slow italians
dave657 - AltLd dnf - 21/Jul/11 with Alys

Indirect start due to guidebook ambiguity. Looking back now I think its marked with green paint.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Fiona

Led odd pitches. Lovely route. Guidebook issues: tried 3 different starts none of which seemed safe/right so took alternative easy start. Got back to the car just as the rain started.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 15/Jul/11 with Mike

start 10 meters right of the big crack at top of a broken scree slope,behind the old hospital ruins
ricking777 - AltLd - 28/Jun/11

Peter Holder - AltLd - 07/Jun/11

Griff87 - AltLd - 2011

excellent route which can get busy as its so near the road but some brilliant steep and exposed climbing.
brianrunner - AltLd - 11/Sep/10 with martina

3kidsandamortgage - AltLd - 02/Sep/10 with Hannah

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/10

1st route of trip. Pleasant enough
Mattyk - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Tash, Ali K

Great route!
Elsier - AltLd - 30/Jul/10 with Michael, Ian

tallthinmonkey - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Mhairi Johnston, Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09

Lev - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Emma Ross

Barry D - AltLd - 29/Jul/09 with Trish

really cool route. shame about the crowds.
whistler - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Anna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/09

Dunx - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Sketch

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/09 with pete

TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Tom

some really nice climbing, especially on the exposed arete
tbs105 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Tiff

Led Pitches 2, 4, 5. A bit cold and got stuck behind 3 Italians going very slowly! Abbed off the West 100m rather than normal descent as the gully was full of snow. Brilliant day out.
annakyn - AltLd - 02/Jun/09 with Duncan ?

MAMAMAM UIAA V+ and 230m in the AC guidebook
Marq - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Andrew Funnell

With direct start up chimney crack. Done in an afternoon having flown in from Stansted that morning. Bit sleepy after getting up at 4am UK time ... this pleasant route blew away the cobwebs.
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Kirsten

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/08

Em66 - 2nd - 18/Jun/08 with Mat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/07

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/06 with MikeW

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/06

John HW - AltLd - 21/Jun/06 with Cath

Hidden - Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/02

Lead pitches 2,4,6
adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/01 with Hoult

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richardhopton, alias dave, zach.stone, Hidden, Woodiee

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS0 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard VS2 of 13
VS4 of 13
easy VS2 of 13
hard HS5 of 13
HS0 of 13
easy HS0 of 13
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
hard 4c0 of 11
4c2 of 11
easy 4c3 of 11
hard 4b6 of 11
4b0 of 11
easy 4b0 of 11
3 Stars10 of 11
2 Stars1 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 62 (1.6%)
Lead13 of 62 (21.0%)
Followed5 of 62 (8.1%)
Alt Leads42 of 62 (67.7%)
Unknown1 of 62 (1.6%)

'Climbed'25 of 62 (40.3%)
clean O/S36 of 62 (58.1%)
dnf1 of 62 (1.6%)