Comici - South Arete*** V-
200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular climb, which unfortunately means that queues are the norm rather than the exception. However the logical line, solid rock, bomber protection and excellent exposure combined with such an accessible grade make it well worth the wait. The grade can be lowered to IV+ by using the first two pitches of Delle Guide.
There are numerous possible starts to the route. The original is in a loose yellow gully on the left. Since the rock is quite shattered the more common starts are a corner just right of the gully (V-, recommended start as described below); a series of cracks a few metres further right (V+). The easiest start is further right below a ramp of grey rock (cemented belay ring, shared start with Delle Guide) bringing the full route grade down to IV+.
1) V-, 40m. Starting 8m right of the gully, climb a corner-crack then move left at the top to a cemented belay.
2) IV, 40m. Move left from the belay, climb two parallel cracks then continue to the right of a flake to reach a deep yellow niche on the arete itself.
3) IV+, 30m. Exit the niche on the right and climb a corner-crack, then continue direct to a good stance on the arete.
4) IV, 55m. Follow the arete (intermediate belay possible at 30m) to reach a ledge.
5) IV-, 30m. Continue direct from the ledge, keeping near but just left of the arete, to a stance on a small pulpit.
6) III, 40m. Climb direct then slightly left up easier ground to the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Cracking route - well protected - bolted belays, bolts/pegs on most hard moves. Reach the start from either the Passo de Falzarego (traverse along the old military road beneath the path up to the Piccolo Laguzoi) or from the cafe further down towards Cortina. The climb either follows the chimney (harder and a falling rock funnel) or the face (well bolted). It's just about posible to do the first two pitches in one (reaching the arete) on a 60m rope, better, in terms of rope drag, to split these.


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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

timmyhobby - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/15

A busy day, we were only party to do direct start - not as bad as guidebook suggests.Also only party to stick to arete on 3rd pitch - it was very bold with no gear(fixed or otherwise) and about VS 4c . Easier if you climb face on left but it's called the Comici Arete (not line next to arete). Great route and easy descent as per Rock fax guidebook.
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/14 with Mike

Nice climbing. As other say, a bit vague at the start - we followed a yellow, left facing diedre. The first pitch is the crux but there after it's pretty straightforwards with masses of fixed gear. The descent is a little intimidating but just go over a little saddle just after the summit and descend and you will find pegs and then some huge steel staples. We did the abseil on a 50m rope but only just, but we used the top staple (there are three at different heights. The descent gully in the early season when it's holding snow could I would imagine be fairly spicy but there are bolts for this eventuality.
beardy mike - AltLd O/S - 14/Nov/14 with Felix Idiens

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14

Hidden - 22/Jul/14

ian d f - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with Marion

Fran Sgr - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Jay C

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Fran S

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/13 with Kris

K Wall - Lead - Aug/13 with Martin

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Alice lead 3 pitches
tim exley - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with alice

alicethwaites - 2nd - 19/Jun/13 with Tim Exley

RobbieT - AltLd O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12

George.nunn1993 - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Mary dougherty

Pete Pozman - 2nd - 26/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

Led alternate pitches from P1
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Huw Goodall

johnpuddephatt - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Matt Ringrose

evens
dunnyg - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with will hunt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

Hidden - Solo - 26/Jan/12

LJC - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with ben.richards

ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Luca Celano

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Harri777 - AltLd - Aug/11 with Naomi

NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Harri!

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Jul/11

Indirect start due to guidebook ambiguity. Looking back now I think its marked with green paint.
prog99 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Fiona

Led odd pitches. Lovely route. Guidebook issues: tried 3 different starts none of which seemed safe/right so took alternative easy start. Got back to the car just as the rain started.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 15/Jul/11 with Mike

start 10 meters right of the big crack at top of a broken scree slope,behind the old hospital ruins
ricking777 - AltLd - 28/Jun/11

Peter Holder - AltLd - 07/Jun/11

Griff87 - AltLd - 2011

excellent route which can get busy as its so near the road but some brilliant steep and exposed climbing.
brianrunner - AltLd - 11/Sep/10 with martina

3kidsandanorton - AltLd - 02/Sep/10 with Hannah

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/10

1st route of trip. Pleasant enough
Mattyk - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Tash, Ali K

Great route!
Elsier - AltLd - 30/Jul/10 with Michael, Ian

Goes at V- not IV
dickie01 - 30/Jul/10 with Julian King

tallthinmonkey - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Mhairi Johnston, Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09

Hidden - 23/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09

Lev - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Emma Ross

Barry D - AltLd - 29/Jul/09 with Trish

really cool route. shame about the crowds.
whistler - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Anna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/09

Dunx - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Sketch

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/09 with pete

TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Tom

some really nice climbing, especially on the exposed arete
tbs105 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Tiff

Led Pitches 2, 4, 5. A bit cold and got stuck behind 3 Italians going very slowly! Abbed off the West 100m rather than normal descent as the gully was full of snow. Brilliant day out.
annakyn - AltLd - 02/Jun/09 with Duncan ?

MAMAMAM UIAA V+ and 230m in the AC guidebook
Marq - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Andrew Funnell

With direct start up chimney crack. Done in an afternoon having flown in from Stansted that morning. Bit sleepy after getting up at 4am UK time ... this pleasant route blew away the cobwebs.
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Kirsten

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/08

Em66 - 2nd - 18/Jun/08 with Mat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/07

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/06 with MikeW

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/06

John HW - AltLd - 21/Jun/06 with Cath

Hidden - Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/02

Lead pitches 2,4,6
adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/01 with Hoult

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richardhopton, alias dave, zach.stone, Woodiee

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard V0 of 0
V0 of 0
easy V0 of 0
hard V-0 of 0
V-0 of 0
easy V-0 of 0
hard IV+0 of 0
IV+0 of 0
easy IV+0 of 0
3 Stars10 of 11
2 Stars1 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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