200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular climb, which unfortunately means that queues are the norm rather than the exception. However the logical line, solid rock, bomber protection and excellent exposure combined with such an accessible grade make it well worth the wait. The grade can be lowered to IV+ by using the first two pitches of Delle Guide.
There are numerous possible starts to the route. The original is in a loose yellow gully on the left. Since the rock is quite shattered the more common starts are a corner just right of the gully (V-, recommended start as described below); a series of cracks a few metres further right (V+). The easiest start is further right below a ramp of grey rock (cemented belay ring, shared start with Delle Guide) bringing the full route grade down to IV+.
1) V-, 40m. Starting 8m right of the gully, climb a corner-crack then move left at the top to a cemented belay.
2) IV, 40m. Move left from the belay, climb two parallel cracks then continue to the right of a flake to reach a deep yellow niche on the arete itself.
3) IV+, 30m. Exit the niche on the right and climb a corner-crack, then continue direct to a good stance on the arete.
4) IV, 55m. Follow the arete (intermediate belay possible at 30m) to reach a ledge.
5) IV-, 30m. Continue direct from the ledge, keeping near but just left of the arete, to a stance on a small pulpit.
6) III, 40m. Climb direct then slightly left up easier ground to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cracking route - well protected - bolted belays, bolts/pegs on most hard moves. Reach the start from either the Passo de Falzarego (traverse along the old military road beneath the path up to the Piccolo Laguzoi) or from the cafe further down towards Cortina. The climb either follows the chimney (harder and a falling rock funnel) or the face (well bolted). It's just about posible to do the first two pitches in one (reaching the arete) on a 60m rope, better, in terms of rope drag, to split these.

Sebastien Gastaud 20/Sep Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

Matt1234 07/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep AltLd O/S
kirky_p 01/Sep AltLd O/S
PPP 01/Sep AltLd O/S
with Brian
Tom F Harding ?/Sep AltLd O/S
with Dave Spooner
Hidden 27/Aug AltLd O/S
andyclimber 26/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd, 4th and 6th pitches

Stroppy 26/Aug AltLd O/S

Nice route

Sam Husband 26/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead P3 (which was probably the best pitch).

with Tom, Ed
tombushell 26/Aug AltLd
Steve Perry 21/Aug AltLd O/S

A wonderful route. We took 60m ropes and did the climb in 5 pitches instead of 6. I lead P1 up the corner crack, Kate did P2. I then did P 3 and went another 30m to the intermediate belay on P4. Kate then ran the rest of P4 and all of P5. I finished P6. P1 was the hardest climbing but P3 has no fixed gear or trad gear near the crux if you stick true to the arete. Do it!

Hidden 21/Aug AltLd
cmars89 20/Aug AltLd O/S
Mike W ?/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul Lead O/S
Batt 27/Jul AltLd O/S

With Cath E and Mark W gate crashing half way up! Good, can go anywhere to start really. We did a nice steep line with bolts. Top ridge is easy and ace. Getting knackered after 6 days climbing!

Hidden 17/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul AltLd O/S
timmyhobby 01/Jul Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

bobpilgrem 25/Jun AltLd O/S

A busy day, we were only party to do direct start - not as bad as guidebook suggests.Also only party to stick to arete on 3rd pitch - it was very bold with no gear(fixed or otherwise) and about VS 4c . Easier if you climb face on left but it's called the Comici Arete (not line next to arete). Great route and easy descent as per Rock fax guidebook.

Hidden 25/Jun AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2015 -
felixizzy 14/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Mike
beardy mike 14/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing. As other say, a bit vague at the start - we followed a yellow, left facing diedre. The first pitch is the crux but there after it's pretty straightforwards with masses of fixed gear. The descent is a little intimidating but just go over a little saddle just after the summit and descend and you will find pegs and then some huge steel staples. We did the abseil on a 50m rope but only just, but we used the top staple (there are three at different heights. The descent gully in the early season when it's holding snow could I would imagine be fairly spicy but there are bolts for this eventuality.

Hidden 30/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/14 -
ian d f ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Marion
kingjam ?/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Fran Sgr 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
Jay C 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Fran S
Roger Cruse 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Kris
K Wall ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Martin
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
tim exley 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Alice lead 3 pitches

with alice
alicethwaites 19/Jun/13 2nd
RobbieT ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
George.nunn1993 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mary dougherty
Pete Pozman 26/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led alternate pitches from P1

johnpuddephatt 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Matt Ringrose
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/12 Solo
LJC 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Harri777 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with Naomi
NB Pixel ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Harri!
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
Mike-W-99 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Indirect start due to guidebook ambiguity. Looking back now I think its marked with green paint.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 15/Jul/11 AltLd

Led odd pitches. Lovely route. Guidebook issues: tried 3 different starts none of which seemed safe/right so took alternative easy start. Got back to the car just as the rain started.

with Mike
ricking777 28/Jun/11 AltLd

start 10 meters right of the big crack at top of a broken scree slope,behind the old hospital ruins

Peter Holder 07/Jun/11 AltLd
Griff87 ??/2011 AltLd
brianrunner 11/Sep/10 AltLd

excellent route which can get busy as its so near the road but some brilliant steep and exposed climbing.

with martina
3kidsandanorton 02/Sep/10 AltLd
with Hannah
Hidden 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

1st route of trip. Pleasant enough

with Tash, Ali K
Elsier 30/Jul/10 AltLd

Great route!

with Michael, Ian
dickie01 30/Jul/10 -

Goes at V- not IV

with Julian King
tallthinmonkey 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mhairi Johnston, Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant
Hidden 14/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 -
Hidden 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Lev 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Barry D 29/Jul/09 AltLd
with Trish
whistler 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

really cool route. shame about the crowds.

with Anna
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Dunx ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sketch
Anna_wells ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with pete
TiffTiff 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom
tbs105 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

some really nice climbing, especially on the exposed arete

with Tiff
annakyn 02/Jun/09 AltLd

Led Pitches 2, 4, 5. A bit cold and got stuck behind 3 Italians going very slowly! Abbed off the West 100m rather than normal descent as the gully was full of snow. Brilliant day out.

with Duncan ?
Marq 11/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

MAMAMAM UIAA V+ and 230m in the AC guidebook

Siderunner 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

With direct start up chimney crack. Done in an afternoon having flown in from Stansted that morning. Bit sleepy after getting up at 4am UK time ... this pleasant route blew away the cobwebs.

with Kirsten
Hidden 07/Aug/08 2nd
Em66 18/Jun/08 2nd
with Mat
tjekel ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with MikeW
Hidden 27/Jul/06 AltLd
John HW 21/Jun/06 AltLd
with Cath
Hidden ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead 13/Jun/01 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2,4,6

with Hoult
Rob Davies ?/Aug/87 AltLd

Continued via upper tower

with Mike Papworth
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richardhopton, alias dave, zach.stone, Hidden, Woodiee
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set