125m, 4 pitches. Park at week parking spot just below switchbacks on road. Climb can be seen from road (5 min walk in!), first pitch is up the easy rock below the climb proper. Head left up crack/ramp at start of first pitch. Interest on first pitch dwindles after those first few moves. Quite bold at the start. 2nd (crux) pitch starts at the ledge, which can be traversed into if avoiding first pitch. Follow the crack up, then traverse left to belay stance. Fairly good gear. Committing 4a/4b move at start of 3rd pitch on good gear. Straightforward after that. 4th pitch starts at ledge, go straight up. Poss to link 3&4, but scope for good belay at top is poor. Better gear for belay at top of pitch 3.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Far Northwest, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Easter 2012, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.

Hugh Macgregor 04/Oct AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep AltLd
Ian Jones 09/Sep Lead O/S

Alarmingly rounded. Great position and midge free.

with John Mcdonald
Hidden 22/Aug Lead
clams ?/Aug Lead

Snatched after Cioch Nose just as the rain was coming in. Missed out P1. Awesome day out

CatMc ?/Aug 2nd
with clams
bigbobbyking 15/Jun AltLd O/S
swmackey 14/Jun Lead O/S
with Sarah Winder
LardClimber ?/Jun AltLd O/S
with Nic Dynes
Hidden ?/Jun AltLd
Robin Nichols 23/May AltLd O/S
with Roger
Roget 23/May AltLd O/S

Led 1st 2 pitches

with robin, jim
s kennedy 14/May AltLd O/S
with Josh
Anne Gumbley 09/May AltLd
markfairbank 09/May AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 07/Apr Lead O/S
MattKettle 07/Apr 2nd O/S
Tony Little 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Geoff f
Quad 08/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
arose 12/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Solo
Samuel Wainwright 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Awesome climbing! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/the-swords-of-gideon.html

Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 -
Hidden 29/May/14 AltLd O/S
ned_85 14/May/14 AltLd
erbridger 14/May/14 AltLd
with nedly14
maria85 22/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Windy day! Good route, would have been better if warmer... First pitch seems a little pointless.

with Jules
Hidden ??/2014 -
whistler 13/Oct/13 AltLd rpt

Superb! Sun, Cold, Grip, Banter.

danimal88 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

piotr lead in trainers... I thought it was quite hard. good climbing though

with piotr
jonnie3430 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Nice moves on good rock.

Elsier 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Adrian
brianrunner 09/Jun/13 AltLd

hot sunny day. good climbing. first pitch is easy climbing but longer than 50m , maybe 60m, so was worth splitting at a midway ledge.

with martina
Roberttaylor 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 07/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead pitch 2. P1 was more like 55m.

The Big Sender 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
holly138 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom B
Triggalicious 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom E
alexmcmillan 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Eleanor Dow
Craig Holden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Robbie
maryleese 06/Jun/13 AltLd
with Bobby Greig
eloise 09/May/13 2nd O/S

With Ian and Helen.

Hidden 12/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Stuzz 20/Feb/13 AltLd rpt
with Chris Hingly
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
sparbus 16/Aug/12 AltLd
with dave porter
BallsOfSteel 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jess 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with glen dickson
ClimbingGlen 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch and 4th Led. interesting Traverse.

peter.herd 18/Jul/12 AltLd
with Marcus Brown
Hidden 18/Jul/12 AltLd
SallyReeves89 18/Jul/12 AltLd
with Rory Brown, Rosie Macgill
iceicebaby 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
DavPk 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4.

mikesuth 07/Jul/12 AltLd

A bit breezy. Definitely the better option than the CIC which was wet. Nice camping and dining in Shieldaig. Led 1 and 3.

sophiecb 16/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Ideal easy walk in for a mountain route. A driech, cold and windy day. Excellent rock, would have been better had we been able to feel our fingers! A couple of spicy initial moves on the first pitch. Led pitches 1 & 3.

with Scooter
John Workman 09/Jun/12 Lead

First ascent by Tom Patey in early 1960's - SOLO -impressive.

with Geoff
Moonstone Hippy 09/Jun/12 2nd

Wow, what a traverse on to the belay ledge!

with John W
DerwentDiluted 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Harri777 02/Jun/12 AltLd

Led p1 & 2

with Naomi
NB Pixel 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Icy gale, frozen feet & found P1 scary enough that I bottled P2 lead, but then followed Harri up and led the much easier P3.

with Harri!
simonty ?/Jun/12 2nd
Abi Chard 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Mapleleaf 04/May/12 AltLd
with Mark Goran
Chad123 29/Apr/12 Lead O/S

A great route, interest on all three pitches, some airy positions and quite tough for grade - first pitch is more like 4c, second almost 5a and tough 4b move on top pitch too. Short, sharp cruxes though, plenty of easier ground....perfect walk in too!

with Emily
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
steve prior ??/2012 AltLd
with Roger C
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
xusa 08/Nov/11 2nd O/S
nowler 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
ZA 02/Oct/11 Lead
with Ainhoa
Hidden 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
martinh13 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Chris
oscaig 08/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Done in 3 pitches on damp drizzly, grey afternoon. Bit of messing about up and down and swopping the lead on middle crux pitch. Long broken and rambling top and bottom pitches detract a little from overall route.

kim.mulji 08/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Wet lower and upper pitches. Middle pitch initially very greasy in rain/drizzle. Both I and Ian climbed up 2nd pitch, and backed off as too committing in the wet. Kim led second pitch finally, with no trouble!

Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
cuthill76 09/Jul/11 Lead

The first several metres of the first pitch are not 4a, probably 4c. Traverse is delicate.

Stuzz 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (crux), Soloed last pitch to the top. Lovely route but the difficulties are rather short lived for a 4 pitch route. Still well worth it though!

with Chris Hingly
dctarrant2000 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Polly Tarrant
westaway 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Imelda Neale
Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
peter fetlar ??/2011 Lead O/S
with julie
alkira ??/2011 -
with kerry atkey
Oliver Hopper ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
chapmand 19/Sep/10 AltLd
with Suzie Hatchell, Scott Webster
chrissy 03/Sep/10 2nd
with Mo
MoWalker3 03/Sep/10 -

left the double cream for the strawberries in the carpark, duh

with chrissy
oliverk 15/Aug/10 Lead
MaxR 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Toby
tobyk 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/10 AltLd
Captain Solo 29/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Kenny
Hidden 15/Jun/10 AltLd
whistler 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Best VS I've ever done!

with Anna
Anna_wells 02/Jun/10 AltLd
with pete
Simon Caldwell 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch - 45m of easy climbing according to the guidebook, but it's actually about 65m so I belayed (with 60m ropes) just below the terrace. And if you take the line in the topo, it's not 'easy' but 4c! I went slightly right at about 4a/b. I then led the 4c crux pitch, easy for the grade but nicely exposed. Carmen led the next 4b pitch, and I led the easy ground to the top (made it harder by following a wide crack up the steep wall to the right, about 4b). A good route, but not great. If you run the 4c and 4b sections together (as per the 1995 guide) then it's 1 good pitch with a pitch of scrambling on either side.

with Carmen
hazeysunshine 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Ann-Marie
abbeywall 06/May/10 AltLd

led 2 and 4

with K
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
ZA 18/Apr/10 Lead
with Ian Robinson, smcw
smcw ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/10 2nd
ZA ?/Mar/10 2nd
with Ian Robinson, smcw
Hidden ??/2010 -
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
thrutch 27/Aug/09 Lead

Very wet, but low in grade. The kids did the first pitch.

with helen
cliffy 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Combes
Hidden 07/Aug/09 AltLd
tom.e ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire
Wilbur 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Done with Iain and Blane. Lead P3 as per SMC book (4b pitch). Think the description in Scottish rock is a bit weird, SMC has a much better description of pitches although be warned that the lengths of pitch are way out! Good lead by Blane on the crux pitch. Awesome red sandstone - i will definitely be back for more of this! Fair enough at 3 stars and bang on for VS.

with SFM (Blane)
catt 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Guide book says this is 40m. It's more like 70m to the start of the crux pitch so we split it on a lower terrace. Perfect rock and great climbing the whole way.

with Will, Blane
Stewart B 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant middle pitch!

with Chris Everett
Hidden 25/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/09 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 12/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
errrrm? 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3, terrific climb.

with gaz h
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Jeanie led pitches 1 & 3.

with Jeanie
benclimbing 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Lorenzo Antolovi
iceicebaby 31/May/09 2nd O/S

led the easy stuff before and after the VS bit.

Hidden 16/May/09 AltLd
frecro 16/May/09 Lead O/S

lead pitches 2,3,4. Felt very hard in the wind!

with Mike Cross
t_stork 16/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve Walls
daftdazza ?/May/09 2nd
Mr.Billiams 18/Apr/09 AltLd

Great Route... left my rock shoes at the top (which I didn't discover until at Diabeag the next day, resulting in an unexpected road trip!)

with Russell
decs 18/Apr/09 -

Direct start E1 5b

with Paul
Ken Applegate 14/Apr/09 AltLd

Great route, and fantastic location! Crux pitch is definitely 4c.

climbing_wiggy 21/Mar/09 2nd β
with John Vehnier, Martin, Leon
Lenny 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Martin, Paul
andymoin 07/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Warren
adw07 07/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
jl 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Jon
veletron 21/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3 & 4 (did top two together) leaving the crux pitch 2 to Jim. Interesting climbing without many positive handholds on pitch 2, but with loads of friction. Interesting few moves at the start of the first pitch (going left up the ramp).

with Jim Shanks
HamishD 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with chris burn
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
alan wilson ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with n smith
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead
Hidden 24/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 18/May/08 AltLd O/S
Phill_ Thompson ?/Apr/08 AltLd
with Lucy Prins
TrollJester ??/2008 Lead O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
CurlyStevo ??/2008 AltLd
IanMcC 29/Sep/07 AltLd
with ColinB
thebat 21/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Giles
gdb4060 ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Dave
Hidden 22/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ann Sanderson
Hidden 01/Jun/07 2nd
sparkass ?/May/07 AltLd O/S

Scary VS

mshorter ??/2007 AltLd
with dunc
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
tallthinmonkey ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Ben Wallace
ruggystunts 07/Jun/06 AltLd
with Kev
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead
thegoatstroker ?/Jun/06 -
with Trefor Hughes
kjbix ??/2006 2nd
Matt crawford ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Roland Ascroft
tcn_2002 ??/2006 Lead

Not a fan of sandstone, a great route though

hlegge ??/2006 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd
Hidden 22/May/05 AltLd O/S
aulda 10/May/05 Lead O/S
with John Mac
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 02/May/04 Lead
with Karen
Sandy P ?/May/04 AltLd
with LukeO
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/02 2nd
Yourlead 23/Sep/01 2nd
with Graham Penny
Darragh ?/May/01 -
with Hanna
brianrunner ??/2000 -
Lone Rider ??/2000 -
Mal Grey ?/Sep/99 2nd

First multi-pitch in years, so gibbered.

with Tardis
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 22/Jul/97 AltLd
with Mike Burt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Mar/96 Lead
with Emmy McCowen
Hidden ?/May/95 Lead O/S
rogerskews ?/Jun/94 AltLd
with Martin Coward
pingora 14/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Nick
CMacD ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1994 Solo
Raggar 23/May/93 2nd
with Steve B, Jon B
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/93 Solo
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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