The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.
A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.
For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Rockfax Description
Left of the Recursion corner is a roof with a diagonal crack in it. The route climbs the 2m roof left of the diagonal crack. Climb the delicate arete/wall, to the roof. Arrange bomber gear, then make a powerful move to a large hold on the lip. A hard and bold rockover gains the upper wall and an exit leftwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Left of Recursion is a large strip roof with a diagonal crack in it. This route climbs the 2m roof left of the diagonal crack. Climb the delicate arĂȘte/wall, to the roof. Arrange bomber gear, then make a powerful pull out to a huge jug on the lip. A hard and bold rock-over gains the upper-wall and a leftwards exit.
FA. Rob Kennard, Jon Howell 15/Sep/2007.
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)