The Verger* E1 5a
[Oh great a peg belay... Snap!, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A big, committing climb right up the middle of the cliff finishing on the arete of the huge central slab. A very serious climb even when clean and dry. Start just left of the massive rubble heap, below a widening crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Move up over steep grass to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, which is thin to start, to a stance on the left at a large ledge.
2) 4c, 16m. Poor rock. Climb the corner on the left and work back right to a stance on a ledge next to the arete.
3) 5a, 45m. Move right, around the arete, to a vertical crack and take this to its end. Move up the wall above until it is possible to traverse leftwards to the arete. Climb the long slabby edge of the arete with little protection to the top. A serious pitch. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: Oh great a peg belay... Snap! © alexjz
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Lead P1 & P3. Climbing felt boring but scary. Really felt exposed going from each small uncut to the next on the final pitch but with no climbing difficulty. On the second belay one of the pegs pretty much fell in my hand when I was testing it. Back up peg belays. I didn't get the 2 star experience!!
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Jon Ayrton

For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...
HappyTrundler - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Diane

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/12

timdi - Lead - Jun/12

A very intense experience that felt harder and more serious than the likes of Mousetrap. Led pitches 1 & 3.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

feilx - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/06 with Tom H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/05

An exciting and atmospheric route. Lovely belay before the big final pitch - a riot of sea pinks and foxgloves - then swooping exposure as soon as you step out onto the slab. Cured the monster hangovers we were both nursing. Led Ps 2&3.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/05 with Dale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/03

seemed much harder than before. Homemade peg still there although much worse for wear.
colin milton - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/03 with simon murphy

Hidden - Lead - Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/98

One of my favourites. A grim, November day with a choppy sea crawling around the cliff base. I remember placing an extra peg in the confessional niche while the wind howled outside. Stepping out of the niche onto the top pitch was stirring stuff!
alan moore - 1996

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Jul/95 with eric milton

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

retreated from 2nd pitch due to much loose rock
rogerskews - 25/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 1990 with Lee Bartrop

frank ramsay - Solo - 10/Feb/89

mark-abz - Lead - 11/Jun/81 with Charlie G

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris ebbutt, Motown, Rassapotimus, Dean177, PanzerHanzler, Dr Caterpillar, Hartley

Total votes cast 30
hard E20 of 10
E20 of 10
easy E23 of 10
hard E11 of 10
E13 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS2 of 10
HVS1 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
hard 5a4 of 10
5a5 of 10
easy 5a1 of 10
hard 4c0 of 10
4c0 of 10
easy 4c0 of 10
3 Stars3 of 10
2 Stars7 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat