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Loose Woman** E1 5b

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[Loose Wo9man, Pitch one, 3 kb]53m, 3 pitches. The most popular line on the Main Cliff offers some good, well-protected climbing on its first two pitches, but the final pitch requires care. Start at a long crack that sprouts from the apex of the massive rubble heap.. 1) 4c, 20m. Take the clean-cut, widening crack-system to a ledge and belay on the left.. 2) 5b, 16m. Climb steeply up into the corner on the right and then through the overhang with difficulty to better holds and a stance on a ledge above.. 3) 17m. Move up the steep corner left of the edge of the slab for 5m and place some gear before stepping right onto the slab and climbing up this with care to the top. © ROCKFAX
1st 2 pitches are well protected, the 3rd is quite the opposite...climb with caution! Starting 1m left of a boulder at the top of the scree pile, in the centre of the main cliff, P1 takes the obvious crack line to its close on a vegitated ledge. P2 steps up behind the flake to the left of the belay, to a R/wards rising break/ramp. From its R/H end, take the corner crack upto and over a capping overhang, following the crack to a big ledge belay with good nut anchors. P3 rises left from the back corner of the ledge, up a small slab and around the arete, only to step back right around this after 7m, via a ledge to the bottom of a chossy slab. Good Hex/oversized nut at its base. Climb with extreme caution to the top where tree belays await at the back.
FAA. Bill Chevrest, Ian Duckworth.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in..

Photo: Loose Wo9man, Pitch one © eroica64
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

All great crack climbing, loved it, top pitch is proper loose.
waydan - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Adam Buldock, El Swiftos

Fantastic climb, and a strong lead by wayne, I have as of yet never been so scared on a second, I think it was the atmosphere of a multipitch sea cliff, and perhaps that this is right at the very pinnacle of my climbing ability. First pitch is lovely, hand jams all the way would love to lead it in a single pitch scenario, second pitch the 5b crux was definitely squeaky bum time. The crack up to roof is straight forward enough and with a slight bridge and good hand placement you are on to the face where you are presented with an ever tightening crack and a glassy face, I kicked my feet into the crack and went for the crux, had a little slip, but with numb fingers carefully sorted feet out and pulled up on crimps, crux sorted. Third pitch is chossy crap, would never like to lead it exposure is pretty massive by now too, fantastic day in all could have been warmer, really enjoyed climb. Feels like a benchmark day
adam84 - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with darren swift, wayne killerstein

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/13

Fantastic climb up to the last pitch, best to ab off after first 2.
Tala M - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Mike Brookes

westong - 2013

haz rudry - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/12

Lead all three pitches, second pitch was a little stiffer than expected and the top pitch is a delight.
riddle - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Yasmina, Tom Elliot

mrtom - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Yasmina Couty, Roger HSmith

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/12

Great climb, Dad's first multipitch. First 2 pitches are v good, last one is pretty terrible. But it's well worth doing for the 1st 2 pitches
alexjz - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with John Zalewski

burto - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with hertha

It started to rain half way up and we got soaked. 3/4 up veer a bit to the left onto Prayermat (also an E1), which was just about ok in on the wet rock, then went back onto "Loose Women".
HansUDes - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with JA Thomson

very good climbing .not loose at all apart from last pitch which is very easy.well protected 5b crux.worth 2 stars
misterb - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with bob

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

First 2 pitches are quite pleasant and pretty solid.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 24/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Pitches 1 and 3.
jameshiggins - AltLd - 24/May/11 with Neil Adams

Ace! Good first crack, nice hard (but solid and protected) crux then an exciting final pitch.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

djromberg - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10

Lead crux pitch, clean but with much hesitation at the crux moves. Good moves in a good position with brilliant protection. Close to HVS.
lrandall - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Max Adamson

first taste of culm - pulled quite a bit off on the way up the first pitch - as a result I never really relaxed whilst leading the second pitch. Some nice climbing and I think it only felt hard due to the mind block going on. Top pitch is a neccesary evil to be able to leave the route.
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Tom

Got Sh@t on by a seagull!
tskelhon - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with John_Warner

Great first 2 pitches. Interesting top pitch... easy E1.
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Tom

Mike W - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/10 with bigrob

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/10

culmclimberRob - AltLd - 06/Jun/10 with jack Wolfenden

Hidden - AltLd dog - 12/May/10

vertically_challenged - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10

top pitch is vegetated and very loose rock. i ended up climbing through gorse bush. first two pitches are very well protected and gorgeous to climb. great multi pitch, bit cold!!
vertically_challenged - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09

led 5b pitch
deklan - AltLd - 04/May/09 with julie

Led P2 and P3. Really good route. I guess it's graded for the "atmosphere" but the climbing felt really only HVS (and maybe soft in the grade even then). It's a lot easier then "Matchless" for example. Still, good line & lots of gear - a real classic Culm route. Top pitch is a 45 deg grass slope but not too bad really.
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Ben Sutton

Surprisingly solid and amenable first two pitches. Glad Chris led the last. Lovely popping out into the sunny bluebell wood
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Chris Sims

Fantastic, great climbing, strenuous crux with lovely moves, make sure you continue with the 3rd pitch to enter The Lost World!
crobinson - AltLd - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Last

Led pitches 1&2. Got lost and fell off on pitch two, don't go up the slab! Good lead on pitch 3 from Chester. Definitely one of those routes I'm really pleased to have done. Not the sort of cliff I'd usually get on, but this route gives an excellent intro. The wood at the top is gorgeous. An excellent adventure.
Tom Last - AltLd - 18/Apr/09 with Chester

Cool, pitch I and 2 nice, went into gully for pitch 3!! What a pitch ;)
sebrider - AltLd O/S - Dec/08 with Dan Walker

existing debt - 2nd - 26/Jun/08 with Iain a

Hidden - Lead dnf - Mar/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/07

ecowaller - 2007

feilx - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Tom H

Marti999 - Lead - Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Jun/05

TobyA - AltLd - 04/Oct/04 with TobyFK

furry - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/04 with Neil

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/03

simon kimber - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Hazel Duff

Hidden - Lead - 2003

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/02 with Jemma Wadham

Solo
Jason Gotel - TR - May/02

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - Sep/01 with henry

First E1, bit of a panic
Theeni - AltLd O/S - Sep/01 with Reg Measures

Hidden - Lead - 2001

Tim M - AltLd - 2000

eric lead crux pitch. found myself a friend
colin milton - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/96 with eric milton

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/96

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/May/96 with jon

got spooked!
Jon Didymus - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/95 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/94

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Eerie walk down. Nice to do something on the main cliff.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with Karen Ghiselli

rogerskews - AltLd - 25/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

frank ramsay - Solo - Dec/89

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/85

First onsight E1 lead.
Mike C - AltLd - 23/Sep/81 with Chris Davis

mark-abz - Lead - 10/Jun/81 with Charlie G

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Brussell, waydan, Maywood96, Rassapotimus, oscaig, wurzelinzummerset, kim.mulji, Hidden, Dean177, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hartley, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard E20 of 18
E20 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E10 of 18
E15 of 18
easy E112 of 18
hard HVS1 of 18
HVS0 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard 5c0 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
hard 5b1 of 17
5b5 of 17
easy 5b10 of 17
hard 5a1 of 17
5a0 of 17
easy 5a0 of 17
3 Stars0 of 17
2 Stars12 of 17
1 Star5 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 71 (1.4%)
Lead25 of 71 (35.2%)
Followed8 of 71 (11.3%)
Toproped1 of 71 (1.4%)
Alt Leads33 of 71 (46.5%)
Unknown3 of 71 (4.2%)

'Climbed'27 of 71 (38.0%)
clean O/S39 of 71 (54.9%)
clean rpt2 of 71 (2.8%)
dogged1 of 71 (1.4%)
dnf2 of 71 (2.8%)