53m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line on the Main Cliff offers some good, well-protected climbing on its first two pitches, but the final pitch requires care. Start at a long crack that sprouts from the apex of the massive rubble heap.
1) 4c, 20m. Take the clean-cut, widening crack-system to a ledge and belay on the left.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb steeply up into the corner on the right and then through the overhang with difficulty to better holds and a stance on a ledge above.
3) 17m. Move up the steep corner left of the edge of the slab for 5m and place some gear before stepping right onto the slab and climbing up this with care to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1st 2 pitches are well protected, the 3rd is quite the opposite...climb with caution!
Starting 1m left of a boulder at the top of the scree pile, in the centre of the main cliff, P1 takes the obvious crack line to its close on a vegitated ledge.
P2 steps up behind the flake to the left of the belay, to a R/wards rising break/ramp. From its R/H end, take the corner crack upto and over a capping overhang, following the crack to a big ledge belay with good nut anchors.
P3 rises left from the back corner of the ledge, up a small slab and around the arete, only to step back right around this after 7m, via a ledge to the bottom of a chossy slab. Good Hex/oversized nut at its base. Climb with extreme caution to the top where tree belays await at the back.

FAA. Bill Chevrest, Ian Duckworth.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

papashango 16/Jul AltLd O/S

pretty shite

with PJ
pete johnson 15/Jul AltLd O/S
jonleighton 30/Jun Lead O/S

Felt pretty serious, mainly because I kept expecting everything I touched or placed gear in to break off, pull out or otherwise detach itself. Great climbing though (except P3...)

Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd
Thinker01 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3 which were very easy and very sketchy respectively.

RFWilkie 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, fun bushwack back down from the top!

with Mark
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and 3.

with Matt
Robertgiddy 25/Jul/14 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & P3 The first two pitches were excellent.....Pitch 3, now that's a different matter (but not as bad as people make out)

nickstephens 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Rupert
petecallaghan 21/Jun/14 2nd dog

Great leads by Adrian and David. I misread the second pitch, and bottled the crux, retreating. David made a ballsy sequence of moves over the crux - the prospect of an abseil retreat was too much for him. The rock was very friable in places, and the seconds got showered in medium-sized sharp fragments of rock - stay out of the fall line when belaying the first pitch. Overall tho the rock is solid. Top pitch is hilarious. A great experience.

with Adrian Swinscoe, David Llewelyn
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

David ran together P1+2 on lead. I still feel justified claiming the alt lead for just that top pitch - it's rather engaging. It's a shame as it would otherwise be a 2 or even 3* crack climb!

jon_gill1 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

I led p1 and p3 and Chris enjoyed the quality climbing of p2. p3 is ridiculously scary with next to no gear!

with chris Lyness
waydan 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

All great crack climbing, loved it, top pitch is proper loose.

with Adam Buldock, El Swiftos
adam84 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb, and a strong lead by wayne, I have as of yet never been so scared on a second, I think it was the atmosphere of a multipitch sea cliff, and perhaps that this is right at the very pinnacle of my climbing ability. First pitch is lovely, hand jams all the way would love to lead it in a single pitch scenario, second pitch the 5b crux was definitely squeaky bum time. The crack up to roof is straight forward enough and with a slight bridge and good hand placement you are on to the face where you are presented with an ever tightening crack and a glassy face, I kicked my feet into the crack and went for the crux, had a little slip, but with numb fingers carefully sorted feet out and pulled up on crimps, crux sorted. Third pitch is chossy crap, would never like to lead it exposure is pretty massive by now too, fantastic day in all could have been warmer, really enjoyed climb. Feels like a benchmark day

kingholmesy ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P3 run together.

with Colin
Graham Westbrook 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Tala M 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb up to the last pitch, best to ab off after first 2.

westong ??/2013 -
haz rudry ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
riddle 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches, second pitch was a little stiffer than expected and the top pitch is a delight.

with Yasmina, Tom Elliot
mrtom 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Yasmina Couty, Roger HSmith
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd
alexjz 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Great climb, Dad's first multipitch. First 2 pitches are v good, last one is pretty terrible. But it's well worth doing for the 1st 2 pitches

with John Zalewski
burto 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
timdi ?/Jun/12 Lead
HansUDes 27/May/12 Lead O/S

It started to rain half way up and we got soaked. 3/4 up veer a bit to the left onto Prayermat (also an E1), which was just about ok in on the wet rock, then went back onto "Loose Women".

misterb 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

very good climbing .not loose at all apart from last pitch which is very easy.well protected 5b crux.worth 2 stars

with bob
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Neil Adams 24/May/11 AltLd O/S

First 2 pitches are quite pleasant and pretty solid.

jameshiggins 24/May/11 AltLd

Pitches 1 and 3.

with Neil Adams
climbingpixie 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Ace! Good first crack, nice hard (but solid and protected) crux then an exciting final pitch.

with Andy
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
liamoloughlin 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
lrandall 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch, clean but with much hesitation at the crux moves. Good moves in a good position with brilliant protection. Close to HVS.

andy dunn 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

first taste of culm - pulled quite a bit off on the way up the first pitch - as a result I never really relaxed whilst leading the second pitch. Some nice climbing and I think it only felt hard due to the mind block going on. Top pitch is a neccesary evil to be able to leave the route.

with Tom
tskelhon 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Got Sh@t on by a seagull!

Jon_Warner 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Great first 2 pitches. Interesting top pitch... easy E1.

with Tom
Mike W 08/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with bigrob
Hidden 08/Jun/10 AltLd
culmclimberRob 06/Jun/10 AltLd
with jack Wolfenden
Hidden 12/May/10 AltLd dog
vertically_challenged 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
vertically_challenged 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S

top pitch is vegetated and very loose rock. i ended up climbing through gorse bush. first two pitches are very well protected and gorgeous to climb. great multi pitch, bit cold!!

Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
deklan 04/May/09 AltLd

led 5b pitch

with julie
chris sm 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3. Really good route. I guess it's graded for the "atmosphere" but the climbing felt really only HVS (and maybe soft in the grade even then). It's a lot easier then "Matchless" for example. Still, good line & lots of gear - a real classic Culm route. Top pitch is a 45 deg grass slope but not too bad really.

cornishben 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Surprisingly solid and amenable first two pitches. Glad Chris led the last. Lovely popping out into the sunny bluebell wood

with Chris Sims
crobinson 18/Apr/09 AltLd

Fantastic, great climbing, strenuous crux with lovely moves, make sure you continue with the 3rd pitch to enter The Lost World!

with Tom Last
Tom Last 18/Apr/09 AltLd

Led pitches 1&2. Got lost and fell off on pitch two, don't go up the slab! Good lead on pitch 3 from Chester. Definitely one of those routes I'm really pleased to have done. Not the sort of cliff I'd usually get on, but this route gives an excellent intro. The wood at the top is gorgeous. An excellent adventure.

with Chester
sebrider ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Cool, pitch I and 2 nice, went into gully for pitch 3!! What a pitch ;)

with Dan Walker
existing debt 26/Jun/08 2nd
with Iain a
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
ecowaller ??/2007 -
feilx 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Marti999 ?/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/05 AltLd rpt
TobyA 04/Oct/04 AltLd
with TobyFK
furry 27/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Hidden 25/Aug/03 AltLd
simon kimber ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Hazel Duff
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
DavidR 05/Oct/02 AltLd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Jason Gotel ?/May/02 TR


reg_measures ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
with henry
Theeni ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S

First E1, bit of a panic

with Reg Measures
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd
colin milton 08/Sep/96 AltLd O/S

eric lead crux pitch. found myself a friend

with eric milton
PaulTanton 28/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Roget 06/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
alan moore ??/1996 -

Magic; so much more fun than Sacre Couer.

Didymus 12/Jul/95 Lead dnf

got spooked!

Hidden 11/Jun/94 2nd
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S

Eerie walk down. Nice to do something on the main cliff.

with Karen Ghiselli
rogerskews 25/May/91 AltLd
with Bryn Roberts
frank ramsay ?/Dec/89 Solo
Simon cook ?/Aug/86 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/85 2nd O/S
Mike C 23/Sep/81 AltLd

First onsight E1 lead.

with Chris Davis
mark-abz 10/Jun/81 Lead
with Charlie G
Hidden ?/May/80 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1979 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, Urgles, waydan, Maywood96, Rassapotimus, oscaig, wurzelinzummerset, kim.mulji, Dean177, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hartley, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set