Rockfax Description
The inset corner on the left side of the slab. Start at the base of the corner by a rock pool.
A steep barnacle-encrusted start is best attempted in dry conditions. Above, clean rock and good gear arrive and lead to the final section up the edge of the rock. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Dilwat 06/Aug Lead O/S

The opening moves on this are so barnacle encrusted that you don't actually climb on rock, but molluscs. I came in from the right and found the whole route a real effort, but I didn't climb it in very good style. Nick showed me how it should be done. Keep a big piece of gear for the final moves.

nickdonohue 06/Aug 2nd

A difficult rather precarious start due to the barnacles - we came in from the right (rather than direct) and a camelot 4 was useful to protect this (and higher!). Good climbing above and worthwhile. Care needed after the top-out on the walk up grass to the top point.

Cheese Monkey 19/Jul 2nd O/S
with Caleb S
Kemics 19/Jul Lead O/S

Turbo speed lead so Ben didn't drown. Took lots of big cams which really helped, would have felt run otherwise. Nice bridging and cool moves. I thought all the climbing felt very easy hs/vs 4b. Trad head defjnitely suffered

with Ben
Hidden ?/Jul Lead O/S
RubySeagull ?/Jul 2nd O/S
with Dan
BobMorston 14/Jun 2nd O/S
with Dave Blower
theotherpetehill 04/Jun 2nd
with Georgina Brooke
Georgina Brooke 04/Jun Lead O/S

fine, weird barnacle-y start

JackM92 17/Apr Lead O/S

Found it harder then Sacre Coer. Quite awkward and needs some pretty big cams to protect adequately. Much harder than any other VS I've climbed on the Culm Coast.

with Nick Nixon
Mark Kemball 02/Sep/15 Lead

Is it me, or is this hard for the grade? Felt more like HVS 5a. Slipped into the pool trying to start it direct - seemed easier to come in from the right.

with Mike Thorpe
climbhannahclimb 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Simpson
jonleighton 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
dready 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
whiteexplorer 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S

the top section that looked the easiest part from the ground turned out to be the hardest .

with joe
darcan 21/Mar/15 2nd
with nick
nickstephens 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Darcan
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Norman_P_W 16/Jul/14 TR
with Bob M
Bob M 16/Jul/14 Lead

Avoided the desperate unprotected start on wet barnacles by sneaking in from the main slab. Very enjoyable climbing after that.

Nick Russell 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Great route, despite the barnacle-encrusted start!

BALD EAGLE 18/May/14 2nd
with Nick Russell, David Martinez Majo
JamesColeman 20/Oct/13 TR dog

Top rope solo. Started just above barnacles due to sea level. Extremely wet first section. No grip - like ice. Had to aid a few moves to get to some grip. Took a further two rests on way to top. Found this very tough. Hindered slightly by carrying excess rope in bag to avoid it getting soaked in sea. Nice line. Amazing formation and location. Scramble up round back to set up ropes and downclimb are serious. There is an anchor point to abseil off but both pegs look very rusty. Great adventure route.

Jelly Mould Surfer 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Bugger of a start with the barnacles. Good climbing but a little awkward in places

benkelsey 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S

nice lead from anna. could not get the number 7 out just below the topout. crag swag for someone?!

with Anna
gripped01 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Rimon Than
burto 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
HansUDes 27/May/12 TR O/S

Used a rope from above and a self-belay device for speed. We wanted to get this climb done before getting wet feet from the incoming tide! Great and interesting climb!

Hidden 27/May/12 TR
oscaig 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Tricky start with your feet on a glassy wall above a deep, evily winking rockpool. Can be outflanked on left edge of main wall but the traverse left into groove is delicate. Really nice climbing up a fine line with good gear above.

with R Tidy
Anna duckett ??/2012 Lead
with Ben Kelsey
westyb3 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Heather Ogston
petegunn 02/Aug/11 2nd

Davina got to the belay just as the tide was starting to lap at my feet!

with Davina
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/11 Lead
jonnie3430 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 24/May/11 2nd
Dave Heaton 20/May/11 Lead
with Martin Cathrow, James Forbes
Hidden 20/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
vertically_challenged 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Justin T 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Crispin
Hidden 07/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Marti999 ?/Aug/06 Lead
rockpool ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

fading light and nearly cut off by incoming tide

with pol
Hidden 12/May/04 2nd
colin milton 31/Aug/03 2nd rpt
with simon murphy
cem 28/Jun/03 2nd
with Liam Mark, Neil Northrop
nige pacer 31/May/03 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??/2002 -
with Hugh Wormington
Roget 08/Jun/00 Solo O/S
with jim
mikej 30/Aug/99 Lead
with Jeremy Cowen
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/96 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/95 2nd O/S
colin milton 28/Jul/95 Lead
with eric milton
Nick Biven ??/1987 -
Martin Bennett 22/Jul/80 -
with JD, IW
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Rassapotimus, Steve Waters, Mynydd, alexporter, alexjz, harwoodoo, Hidden, vertically_challenged, Humpty Dumpty1, Hartley, Hidden
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 13
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set