Cumbria > Shepherds Crag >
 
The Bludgeon*** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Crescendo
 
Missing Link finish to Bludgeon >>
[Failing on the Bludgeon. Gene Vallee. Utah, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Shepherd's Crag - top 25, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Failing on the Bludgeon. Gene Vallee. Utah © USBRIT
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 287 logbooks, and on 54 wishlists.

Led P1.
Matthew Ferrier - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Alex McCann

amccann - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Matt Ferrier

tmawer - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/14 with Bram

Dervey - Lead dog - 27/Jun/14 with Liam

BTphonehome - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Tony

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/14

jordan taylor - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

johang - Lead rpt - 27/May/14 with Chris Swanepoel

klipkabouter - 2nd - 27/May/14 with Johan Gausden

Led P1. Bailed after a failed attempt on P2
Slick - AltLd dnf - 24/May/14 with Alastair Begley

start of P2 was soaking wet and slippery, ran away
alastairbegley - AltLd dnf - 24/May/14 with Richard Nicholson

I somehow skinned a knuckle and burst my lip along with other scrapes and bruises. Lived up to its name. The top section is amazing due to its steepness and situation, otherwise average.
sparkass - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Iain Steele

steely - 2nd dog - 21/May/14 with duncan campbell

Adam.May - Solo β - 15/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Apr/14

Hidden - 2014

Bob - 2014

rob.grafton - 2014

robbo157 - Lead O/S - 2014

Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead dog - 2014 with dave armstrong, tim millen

kato'sdad - AltLd - 13/Oct/13 with Olly

Pitch 2. Cracking route, getting onto the pinnacle was the crux for me, then gunning for the top.
ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Jon Berry

Paul Figg - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with Rachel Antill, Nick Cement

Nick Clement - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Rachel Antill, Paul Figg

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - Sep/13 with James Mortimer

JamesMortimer4 - AltLd - Sep/13 with Tim Miller

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Remy

rem12112122 - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/13 with angus

GeorgeWoodward - Lead dog - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/May/13

SPD224 - 2nd - 25/May/13 with Martin Smith

One fall at crux trying to latch jug. Apparently a hold broke off in the last week, can anyone confirm? Will come back to ascend clean sometime.
johang - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Sam Brown

Pitch 1
oliverk - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

I treated the watching audience on Little Chamonix to a head first whipper when I pulled a hold off. It hasn't made it any harder and I got straight back on and finished it.
Tubs - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Oli K

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Apr/13

tomhull - Lead rpt - 03/Apr/13 with james stokes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/12

got the top pitch, totally outrageous positioning for such a moderate route. pretty pumpy too!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with tom jenkins

I jumped up the first pitch and Marcus led the crux.
LibS - AltLd - 07/Oct/12 with Marcus Peabody

p2
joe_lancs - AltLd - 06/Oct/12

chrisallan - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/12

Led P1
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Ralph Burden

Caroline led P1, I led P2. Interesting!
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Caroline Culwick, Chris Allan

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hannes B - AltLd - 04/Sep/12 with Magnus, Roald, Tom

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/12

Started on Crescendo but lost out way and I ended up leading the crux in order to escape to safety - good stuff!
da_cox - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Andy Overitt

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/12

Mighty intimidating, especially when you've just been told you're on an Italian hitch coz your mate's forgotten his belay plate.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/12 with Robin, Si 2

Great route. The first crack below the pinnacle was harder than I remembered from my first ascent.
robin_hackney - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/12 with Si, Dave Foster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/12

Lead the first pitch clean including Rook attack - very pretty eggs in nest. Got stuck clinging to top of pinnacle on second pitch thankful for rope above!
helenstuart - AltLd dog - 03/Jun/12 with Mike

Gripping! Moving up the the pinnacle feels very insecure and exposed and the move onto the wall above is a head trip though not as difficult as it looks. So happy to clean this!
climbinmunkey - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12

Steve J T - 2nd - 03/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12

Bart found it harder to get onto the pinnacle rather than leaving it, I still found the steep crank at the top the crux, high in grade but still E1 and great fun. First pitch is also very pleasant and quite bold....
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 13/May/12 with bartshaw

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Jake Shaw

JakeWShaw - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Nick

mwatson - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Mike W

Excellent route well worth doing
AndyT1151 - Lead - 23/Apr/12 with Hugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/12

tiring at the top!
tomdude - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with adrian macleod, rob

a few issues with commitment ... got there in the end, cool position at the top of the crag
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 16/Apr/12 with Adrian, Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

chris smith - Lead dog - 13/Apr/12

Class route, glad I didn't have to lead the top pitch as I'm sure I would have run out of steam and dangled!
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Gavin

Hidden - Lead - 12/Mar/12

sam_lav - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

cballard - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

will6459 - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 30/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/11

lead pitch 1. might have to lead second pitch next summer. this was hard!! top flakes felt very creaky.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Rachel Slater

lead pitch 2. Exciting!!!
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Olli Crudge

P1 2nd 4c; P2 lead 5b
thebigfriendlymoose - AltLd - 27/Aug/11 with Stephen

Sankey - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Luke

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with chris smith

Tophe - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with tim newton

Hidden - Solo - 13/Aug/11

samrad - AltLd - 08/Aug/11 with james G

jess - AltLd dog - 05/Aug/11 with martin

Good lead by Haydn. Getting on to the pinnacle from the right is a desperate thrutch. I have vague memories of doing it from the left many years ago and there was chalk that way?
DaveAtkinson - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with Haydn Keith

Smithy led the first pitch, I did the second. Kept my onsight but didn't do it particually well, spent a long time doing things like extending runners and placing gear. I also spent a long time working out how to get off the pinnacle. Still great fun though!
MarkRoe - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/11 with Smithy

Led 1st pitch.
Smithy Smith - AltLd dog - 20/Jun/11 with Mark Roe

Awesome!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Steve Seale

gowla - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/11 with adam booth

Got a total spanking! Wonderful climb though. Perhaps not wise to do as the 21'st and final pitch of climbing that day. From the chalk there seems to be a lot of people traversing in to the pinnacle from little chamonix, Don't do this, the lower half of the pitch is very good too.
greenroom - Lead dog - Jun/11 with Matt Foot

chrishedgehog - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11 with James Rees

Hidden - 2nd RP - 30/May/11

andy dunn - Lead dog - 29/May/11 with Big Gay Jordo

Awesome!
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 07/May/11 with Ben Corbey

Lead P1. P2 was great and exciting even on the 2nd. Look forward to leading this next time. Awesome for E1!
coombsy - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with John B

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Apr/11

Graceful and elegant this was not... grateful for the 'leopard in a tree' resting position on the triangular block!
benjizac - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/11 with Troy Midwood, Rory Juss

as hard as the last time!
tomhull - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/11 with jason keable, tom heaney

HIGHTOWER - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/11 with Lee Wales, Andy Woolston

hardest climb for me so far!
tom heaney - 2nd - 17/Apr/11 with tom hull

ojp - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Robin

Fantastic. Really scary leaving the pinnacle on P2. Awesome relief topping out.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Simon Petty

excellent, went the right way this time and was much easier!
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/11 with George

The most strenuous E1 i've done! worth E2 just for the effort.
petegunn - Lead - 25/Mar/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Danny Bags - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

beckywecky - 2nd - 25/Oct/10 with Lewi Fraser

bit of a struggle but got up up in the end
sam_lav - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/10 with lewis frasier

HansUDes - TR dog - 17/Oct/10

HansUDes - AltLd dnf - 03/Oct/10 with Bradley Morrell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10

Jack Loftus - Lead - 17/Sep/10 with Pete Hill

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/10

HamishD - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Tom Ripley

tjmillen - Lead - Sep/10 with simon hall

esther - Lead - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/10

themountaintamer - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Nigel Hooker

Hidden - Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/May/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Grace Chuchla

sk8world19 - 2nd dog - 29/May/10 with James Monypenny

barni - Lead O/S - 20/May/10 with Sam

tom lead crux, I struggled n fell getting off the pinnacle
Oliver Houston - AltLd - 03/May/10

Classic case of 1st route of the day epic, out psyched and out of gas after attempting the route the wrong way, twice... dammit!
JonBrown - Lead dnf - 03/May/10 with Tom Spears

Wicked top pitch, looks nails but ain't *that* bad. Really good fun!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Ollie Houston

Liam Martin - Lead dnf - 02/May/10 with Stephen Wilkinson

Led second pitch. Some gear was preplaced as I used (and retrieved) gear from group ahead of us who backed off. Took several falls and many rests. Total dog but was pleased to get to the top!
gidmord - AltLd dog - 02/May/10 with Ben Harper

only lead first pitch, the second pitch is pretty scary for the lead but not bad on second
Ben Harper - AltLd O/S - 02/May/10 with Gideon Mordecai

pete87abs - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with james

jimmyrua - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Pete Abernethy

dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Rich Clarke

Bold first pitch with scary loose looking pinnacle, top pitch is excellent steep, airy fun, Em had a bit of a fight with it!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Emily

rclarke - AltLd dog - 24/Apr/10 with Dave Brigham

J1PEF - AltLd - 22/Apr/10

Sylvi - 2nd - 09/Apr/10 with paul and ben

top pitch only
stuart34 - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/10 with James Monypenny

Lead 2nd pitch but backed off at the pinnacle. Lowered to the ground and then fell where I backed off when seconding.
rockrat - 2nd dog - 16/Mar/10 with Ben Bravington-Sim, Luke Armitage

Andrew1 - Lead - 14/Mar/10 with Hulda

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

scott gibson - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Duncan D - 2010

cosmicray - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

2 pitch, first litle sparse protection, First class climbing leading to a powerfull crux crack.
jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

JamieSparkes - 2nd dog - 11/Oct/09 with Jamie Foxen

Pete Graham - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/09 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Oct/09

Jack Loftus - 2nd - 07/Oct/09 with Nick

ian caton - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Abi

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/09

Andy Moles - 2nd - 13/Aug/09 with Neil

jimsrankin - Lead - Aug/09 with Liam

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/09 with George reah

buddha1369 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Ali (OB)

oliverthomp - AltLd - 19/Jun/09 with Rory O'Donall

Lead top pitch. Steep but good holds, found getting up to then off the pinnacle the crux.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/09 with David Fountain

Led bold 4c first pitch
davefount - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Glyn

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/09

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Paul Mainwood

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Nicki Hearne

Hidden - Lead - Jun/09

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Ashley

John Postlethwaite - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with liam

Paulww - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Ryan

mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/09 with paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Lead 1, not much gear. 2 is steep and strenuous, but exhilirating!!
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Tom Hull

lead second pitch. great way to finish the day
tomhull - AltLd - 11/Apr/09 with martin davies

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Apr/09

GPN - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Shaw Brown

Shaw Brown - Lead - 29/Mar/09 with George North

AFuckingMazing! Nice first pitch that is bold, then steep and prepare you well for what is to come! Last pitch is out there but is fine if you find the old fashioned contortion rests. Got a great no hands ontop of the pinnacle with one leg stuck down behind. Dam I love the lakes!
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Big Al

Hidden - 2009

MarkDavies36 - 2009

Did first pitch of Little Cham, jumped on this to dodge queues. One quick pull on a cam to get back to the spike.
RCrockford - Lead dog - 27/Sep/08 with Andy G

John lead pitch 2, Dan pitch 1
Daniel Armitage - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/08 with John Mason

awsome route!!! lead 2nd pitch
jonnyboy - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/08 with Daniel Armitage

petegunn - AltLd - 23/Aug/08 with Davina & Matt

Bold first pitch, well protected 2nd in unusual territory for the grade!!
Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Alexander

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08

red1200 - 2008

With rest, what a bastard!
IanJackson - Lead - 01/Aug/07 with Robeverybody

jamo - 2nd dnf - 03/May/07 with Jake Surman

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

derico - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/07 with Mat B

Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/07

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Fell off trying to get onto the final flake - took a good pedulum swing - finished up Little Cham in the end.
KarlH - 2nd dnf - 14/Mar/07 with Rob Greenwood

Rob Kennard - 2007

steve taylor - 2007

Johann - AltLd dog - 2007

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 2007

Luke Brooks - AltLd - 09/Nov/06 with Rob Grant

Really out there at the top. Not bad for the strong but for us lesser mortals, desperate! Seemed harder than MGC.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 14/Oct/06 with Karl Lunt

Wow... Well earned onsight. Desperate not to give up on top crack, tried about 8 attempts returning to `floped over spike` position each time for rest. Spike is really hard too. Definately hard in the grade
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/06

SeanB - 2nd - 21/Sep/06 with Neil, Scott

Bloody ballsy for E1. shat myself moving off the pinacle, lots of good gear, small cams for top crux and sling on the pinacle..bold moves onto the pinacle (after a series of crimpy flakes swing your legs from the right to the left once you've gained the top of the pinacle) scary stuff moving off it!!!
waltersp - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Stu

was doing little chamonix with steve but something that imposing cant be left unclimbed so did it and abbed off and finished little cham. tough for the grade, really hot day.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with steve robinson

awesome route. great exposure on final pitch
smollett - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Francis blunt

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

prawn - 2nd - Jul/06 with Graham

Heather Davies - AltLd - 02/Jun/06 with James Noble

Chesh - Lead dog - 29/Apr/06 with Phil B

I lead first pitch cleanly, stu lead second pitch cleanly, fell on crux of pinnacle, couldn't reach holds as overhanging, prussiked up to top of pinnacle and finished!! oops. must go back and try harder!!! very harsh for E1!!
PWEI_fan - AltLd dog - 29/Apr/06 with Stuart Plumb

jim robertson - 2006

ewen - 2006

dogged on a second n dragged up. easy peasy
greylag - 2nd - 2006

John Kettle - Lead - 2005

Pete Graham - Lead - 2005 with Ben Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2005 with Wez

steveP - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/04 with Chris Wynn

Chriswynn - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/04 with Steve Pettit

whispering nic - Jun/04 with The Wife

Hidden - Jul/03

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 10/May/03 with Richard Jewell

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/02

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/02

Lead pitch 1, Trashed 1
adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - 14/May/01 with Hoult

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/01

Hidden - AltLd - May/01

Hidden - 2001

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/00 with Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/00

jonka - 2000 with brad

alpinismo.uk - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

Dave Westby - Lead - 1998

NickJH - 1996

Hammy - Lead - 04/Jul/95 with Scott Umpleby

Henriettaah - 01/May/94

Guy - Lead - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/93

It's certainly "Strenuous and spectacular" on the final pitch - as the guide has it. Great entertainment.
allmag - Lead - 20/Dec/90

JonG - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/89

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/89

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 13/Aug/88 with Iain Clark

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 16/Apr/88 with Nick Keekus

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 13/Apr/88 with Iain Clark

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 1988 with The General (P.Henderson)

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/85

Hammy - Lead - 10/Sep/84 with Ian Barker

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 21/May/84 with Andy Cant

David Smith - Lead - Sep/83

Andy Say - Lead - 29/Aug/83

Hidden - Lead - 1982

KRB - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/81 with Newcastle Polytechnic Climbing Club

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/80

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/79

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/77

On the first ascent with Peter lockey in 1957 the only protection used was a single piton in the short groove below and right of the pinnacle.The pinnacle looked too unstable to place a sling.The climb was led on sight compleatly free.Peter had a fall seconding when a hold broke.Paul Ross
USBRIT - Lead O/S - Apr/57 with Peter Lockey

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Keith Swainson, gavinpeach, Hidden, atthedropofahat, Valentino, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, CJSuttz, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, hfac, crag_hopper_Jay, rustaldo, Hidden, Garson, mattrm, JanBella, Jonathan Spooner, Aid@n, Hidden, Ian Jones, Calder, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, mrtom, dansmonkeytroubles, funsized, Hidden, twoplates, ccraigg22, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Different Steve, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, George Bassant, Ewan Richards, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, beegsyboy, Hidden, gilldando, steveP

Voting
Total votes cast 204
hard E20 of 71
E20 of 71
easy E225 of 71
hard E141 of 71
E14 of 71
easy E11 of 71
hard HVS0 of 71
HVS0 of 71
easy HVS0 of 71
hard 5c0 of 68
5c0 of 68
easy 5c7 of 68
hard 5b47 of 68
5b13 of 68
easy 5b1 of 68
hard 5a0 of 68
5a0 of 68
easy 5a0 of 68
3 Stars54 of 65
2 Stars11 of 65
1 Star0 of 65
0 Stars0 of 65
Bag of .....0 of 65
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 287 (0.7%)
Lead114 of 287 (39.7%)
Followed55 of 287 (19.2%)
Toproped1 of 287 (0.3%)
Alt Leads75 of 287 (26.1%)
Unknown40 of 287 (13.9%)

'Climbed'124 of 287 (43.2%)
clean O/S103 of 287 (35.9%)
clean β2 of 287 (0.7%)
clean rpt13 of 287 (4.5%)
clean RP1 of 287 (0.3%)
dogged32 of 287 (11.1%)
dnf12 of 287 (4.2%)