20m. The obvious hanging slab left of The Conning Tower. Interesting, solid, well protected climbing. Start a little way up the muddy gully at a block below and right of a cave entrance. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab to gain the obvious left-rising crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty rockover, utilising an obvious side pull, gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest of the slab on good edges and finish up the arÍte.

M Davies/S Coombes 07/Oct/2007


ClimberDateStyle
onlyfoddington 21/Aug 2nd O/S

Tricky enough in the drizzle

Hidden 21/Aug 2nd
Kayan 21/Aug Lead
Dan Wilcox 13/Aug 2nd
will_benfold 13/Aug Lead O/S
91dave 13/Aug Lead rpt

First HVS! Very happy with the lead. Probably ran it out a little more than necessary. No gear between the overlap and the crack. Had to sprint through the crack or come off.

with Dan Wilcox
label 13/Aug 2nd O/S
leland stamper 04/Aug 2nd O/S
with Lachlan
The Ivanator 16/Jul Lead rpt
with Rob
Hidden 13/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun Lead
Hexman 21/Jun Lead O/S

Bit of Elvis leg ! Gear ok, top end HVS I'd say

Hidden 02/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jun Lead
Steve Bartle 14/May Lead O/S

Pulse enhancing stuff. Take micros and small cams

with Ruth
Stanners 04/May Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May Lead dog
Hidden 03/May 2nd O/S
Oliver Smaje 16/Apr Lead O/S
with Paul
petegunn 03/Apr Lead
with Davina
Hidden 03/Apr 2nd
Tom F Harding 25/Mar Lead rpt
with Mark Van Rossum
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
edmundro 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Tom F Harding 17/Oct/15 Lead dog

Good route - will be back

Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep/15 2nd

Thought this was quite hard, but then I hadn't read the description and didn't realise I was supposed to stand in the crack.

Robin Woodward 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb with some good variety. Not sure the side-pull was that obvious to Jenny or I, and came a bit to late when I stumbled across it, seemed to manage OK without it however.

Jenny Dart 08/Sep/15 2nd
with Robin
markfromstoke 11/Aug/15 Lead
with Adrian, Steve N
Fatclimber 01/Aug/15 2nd β
The Ivanator 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Quite good for a route with no stars at FCQ. The moves to access and climb the diagonal crack are fun.

with Steve W
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
91dave 07/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Ejminee 29/May/15 2nd
LovelyMrTom 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 17/May/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
abtibbs 19/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Came off due to pump at the crack traverse

with Jack Verber
Steve Woollard 27/Oct/14 Lead

Nice little route

with Donald
crater 27/Oct/14 2nd
with steve
callans 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Lovely climb on pretty solid rock for the 'cave!

katiep 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Callan
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Echna 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 19/Aug/14 2nd
BBEENN 18/Aug/14 TR
upontop 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd β

Cameron had to tell me to get back on the line when I veered a little left. Didn't feel too bad, though.

cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
felixizzy 05/May/14 Lead O/S
the ant hill mob 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf

tough climb, wet holds, crumbly rock, fell near the top after right hand hold blown, big fall, 5 stitches in my knee and damaged ligaments in ankle... bugger! but lucky my gear held!

Jessicacrump 21/Apr/14 2nd
sheelba 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Tristypants 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
riddle 15/Sep/13 2nd O/S
zadurrani 15/Sep/13 Lead
with riddle
Gabe Oliver 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

warm up route, really grotty rock but otherwise ok.

gjh 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
shim ?/Aug/13 2nd
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mick1jones 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Wire slots not secure and so takes cams much better on slab

with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fun fun fun! Very HVS unusual for the quarry!

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
chrisallan 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
thomb 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Kat
beth_may 08/Jun/13 2nd
becoming-stranger 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Beth Mc
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 2nd
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/May/13 Lead O/S
ruaidh 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Nigel
James26 04/Sep/12 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/12 2nd
wurzelinzummerset 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Ally, Rob
Bobling 11/Aug/12 Lead

First time I've used my nut key to excavate placements - bit of a shock after Rob's Crack.

with Alan, Ali
bpmclimb 17/Jun/12 TR rpt

In the rain. Not pleasant!

with Shunt
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 Lead rpt

good slab and crack,nice moves

bpmclimb 06/May/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 06/May/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 01/May/11 TR rpt

To decide between 5a and 5b. Still can't tell. Genuinely on the cusp.

with Shunt
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
James Moyle 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

HVS+ 5a/b

cas smerdon 29/Apr/11 2nd
with James Moyle
evhall 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice route - more 5a

with Fletch
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 TR rpt

HVS 5a seems spot on.

with Shunt
blum ??/2011 Lead dnf

On first attempt bottled it on the slab went left and disloged loads of rocks don't belay in the gully rock fall hurts!!!!. Tom led clean I seconded

with Tom Starks
Mark Davies 07/Oct/07 Lead β

First ascent.Cleaned shit off on abseil.Benchmark E0

with Sarah C
bpmclimb 07/Oct/07 Lead β
with Clare
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd dog
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
catty_9, jhobbs, Hidden
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set