Cornwall > St Loy Cliff >
 
Chlorophyll Cluster** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Old Fools
 
The Baldest >>
[Chester about to start the pump!, 3 kb]Popular and well-protected climbing taking on the large flakes and cracks up the left side of the main wall. Well worth the walk and a good consolation should the other lines here prove too harsh. Start at the base of the main left to right line of weakness in the centre of the crag. 32m. Gain the excellent right-facing layback crack either from the easy line of weakness, or direct via a couple of moves up the wall just to the left. The layback crack ends at a good ledge and a possible belay. From the ledge, move left and climb up the steep twin cracks above a small overlap. The left-hand crack gradually widens to hand width as height is gained and this is followed until just below the top, where a step left and then up is required to finish. The hand-crack has some grass in it but this does not get in the way of the climbing. Thread belays in blocks well back. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Chester about to start the pump! © crobinson
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 81 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Louise Street

After bailing on onsight attempt.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 27/May/14 with Clare

Justin T - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Pete J

Rosyk - 2nd O/S - 28/Nov/13 with Jay astbury

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/13 with Rosyk

wow enjoyed this but took a small fall as the top crack was wet costing me the onsight great moves throughout
dready - Lead - 16/Aug/13 with whiteexplorer

the previous nights heavy rain meant that not only were the inside of the cracks wet but water was also running down the surface in some important places.managed to get through were Joe fell but my hand slipped in the wet crack while trying to remove the gear he had fallen on,really struggled to finish the rest of the route and only just made it
whiteexplorer - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/13 with joe

morganator - 2nd - 18/May/13 with International Meet Guest

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/13

Forgot that this is really quite hard. Bill found it easy and cruised it - beast! Excellent route.
Tom Last - 2nd rpt - 20/Feb/13 with Billy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Getting established into wet crack felt very hard and worked for dry foot holds.Very sustained thereafter and great value. Rounded top soaking and bellyflopped over.One 2nd couldn't follow and the other struggled.Would not have surprised me if it had been an E2 5C. An E2 5B at least ?
No? Yes! - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Dave Heaton - Lead - 09/Jul/11 with Jake Nichol

Led up to the ledge, could not work out the moves, so came down for Richard to lead!
Dizz - 2nd β - 25/Jun/11 with Richard S

Master Chief - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11 with John

Spearos - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Master Chief

jeffb - AltLd dnf - 21/Apr/11 with Calder

Calder - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/11 with jeffb

Feet popped on upper section, took a big fall. Completed straight after. Many small/medium cams needed. MANY
jakenichol - Lead - 07/Apr/11

haylow - 2nd - 07/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Apr/11

After more than a year since my onsight attempt of this climb, it finally went, so scared near the top, the saga for this climb is over yay!!! Good crack climbing and some good footwork required, was quite wet today, seems to pool through this climb!!!
mbradberry2008 - Lead β - 30/Jan/11 with Alex French

flyinfrenchy - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Matt Bradberry

+ Hester
andy_pemberton - Lead - 2011

Hidden - TR - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - TR - 28/Aug/10

Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Katherine Sydney

a great route if you like laybacks and hand jams... i don't and found it pretty strenuous
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/10 with bobby gilbert

verticon - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Craig Harwood

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/10

Tim Sparrow - Lead - May/10 with Pete Robinson

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/10

Rowansb - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Mungo Nash

Ripped my hands to shreds on this one, best stay away from cracks...
Cornish Cream - 15/Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

Had to escape via cress cendo, lip was wet and crack above it, took 1 fall from there didnt fancy another go!!
mbradberry2008 - Lead dnf - 12/Dec/09 with Mark Van Vliet

Rusty2406 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09 with Dale

Good route, packed it out to fuck!
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Mike

Pumpy and satisfying but a bit goey for E1? Hot tip is to rack your cams (1.5 to 2.5 friends in particular) on the RHS of your harness, not the left like I usually do.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Gav

lrandall - 2nd - Jun/09 with ???

wow, what a climb!very pumped with no rest untill just below the top.
crobinson - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Queequeg

With one fall, pumped out of my mind. Crux not too hard but the upper crack is very sustained and just keeps coming and coming. Bit like Aviation, but harder. Very good climb.
Tom Last - Lead - 31/May/09 with Chester & Luke

Getting very dirty in the upper crack - loads more mud and flowers in there! Still fab though
robbo157 - Lead O/S - 05/May/09

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 03/May/09

Master Chief - TR O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Nick

Rusty2406 - TR O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Master Chief

Topped out in 'darkness' - full moon.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Sinbad

sustained
cornishben - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Nick COle

cem - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/08 with Rob Truckle

dan gibson - Lead - 18/Feb/08

Hidden - 28/Jan/08

DorsetGareth - Lead - 05/Nov/07 with Andy & Fiona

richardr - Lead O/S - Sep/07

E1 my arse!
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Oddjob - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Simon

cem - 2nd - 14/Apr/06 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

maybe_si - Lead - Apr/06 with jez

Marti999 - Lead - 2005 with Mick Cooke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/04

Jez - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/04

Mark Kemball - Lead - 08/Apr/04 with Stu Bradbury

feilx - 2004 with Phil D

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/03

Tim Sparrow - Aug/03 with Pete Robinson

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/03

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/02 with Roy Thomas, Kaspar Martin

bullybones - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Nov/01

Rob Oram - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/00 with Dave Frusher

John Southworth - Lead - Mar/98 with Andy MacNae

gooberman-hill - Lead - 1998 with winger

tlr - Lead - 24/Aug/96 with Kim

steve taylor - 2nd - Apr/92 with stumpy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/87

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/84

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Motown, mike hooper, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dilwat, Ian Jones, nickstephens, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E20 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E21 of 21
hard E112 of 21
E18 of 21
easy E10 of 21
hard HVS0 of 21
HVS0 of 21
easy HVS0 of 21
hard 5c0 of 22
5c0 of 22
easy 5c0 of 22
hard 5b11 of 22
5b11 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
hard 5a0 of 22
5a0 of 22
easy 5a0 of 22
3 Stars8 of 22
2 Stars10 of 22
1 Star4 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead43 of 81 (53.1%)
Followed26 of 81 (32.1%)
Toproped4 of 81 (4.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 81 (2.5%)
Unknown6 of 81 (7.4%)

'Climbed'38 of 81 (46.9%)
clean O/S32 of 81 (39.5%)
clean β3 of 81 (3.7%)
clean rpt3 of 81 (3.7%)
dogged2 of 81 (2.5%)
dnf3 of 81 (3.7%)