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Stone Cold Fever*** 6b+

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[Crux moves, pitch 2, of Stone Cold Fever (F6b+), Cheddar Gorge, 3 kb]100m, 7 pitches. Diverse and mostly amenable climbing on a direct line that ascends the full height of the Pinnacle Bay. The climb is well bolted throughout (F6a+ obl). It is possible to abseil from rim to floor 70m rope required (note: first abseil is exactly 35m so be careful). Shoot Gully is the scramble descent recommended in the guidebook: while it is okay at first it quickly becomes treacherous - very loose and slippery and there are two notices warning people of trees that might give way. Trying to scramble down could easily be fatal. There are some good trees to ab from, and a 60m rope gets you down in two abseils, or three if you want to go all the way to the rock catch fence. (1) 20m. F6a+ Ascend an initial easy slab then make a stiff pull diagonally leftwards through the bulge. Follow the easy corner above to a good ledge and belay at a double ring abseil station on wider ledge just above. Eight bolt runners. (2) 20m. F6b+ Climb the elegant technical groove before continuing more easily up rightwards on large holds to a semi-hanging stance at a three bolt abseil station (with two rings). Seven bolt runners. (3) 7m. - Pull up onto the slope above and scramble up to a tree belay (with a belay bolt just above) (4) 16m. F6b. Move up onto a raised ledge (peg runner) then step up and swing around onto the left side of the arête. Follow the arête to a pleasant mid-height resting ledge. Clip a high bolt runner on the right before continuing up the left side of the arête and finishing leftwards to a ledge and double ring abseil station in a short corner. Seven bolt runners. (5) 7m. Make a final move up the short corner to gain a narrow ledge above, then step across to the right and scramble carefully up the grass slope to reach the walkway and bolt belays on the left of a clean corner. One bolt runner. (6) 30m. F6a. Surmount an initial bulge to gain a slight groove and continue straight up on the wall on continually surprising holds to reach a slight upper groove. At the top of this step across to the right on a wide ledge and finish up an awkward scoop to a hanging stance at a double ring abseil station. Thirteen bolt runners. (7) Pull over onto the summit and walk up the slope to belay in the welcome sunshine at a convenient tree.
FA: (Pitches 1-5) Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 14th January 2007. FA: (Pitch 6) Gordon A Jenkin, Martin J Crocker (both led), Yvonne Jones 3rd February 2007

Ticklists: Cheddar Intermediate.

Photo: Crux moves, pitch 2, of Stone Cold Fever (F6b+), Cheddar Gorge © Jon Didymus
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Rupey - AltLd - 15/Mar/14 with alan

markfromstoke - 12/Mar/14 with Ian

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/14 with Mark

Led pitches 1 & 3 (counting only proper pitches). Everything clean except for the crux of the 6b+ pitch. Doesn't seem to like me...
pheotleyr - AltLd dog - 12/Dec/13 with Michael

Led p2,3. Fell on p1 when foot came off wet hold. Fell on p2, greasy crux and hard sequence!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd - 24/Oct/13 with Peter

Dogged pitch 1 on lead, was wet. Rested on the ropes on pitch 2 on second several times, its crux was hard. Seconded pitch 3 and lead pitch 4 both clean. Was quite scared to hit the big ledge on pitch 4 for quite a while, probably worth setting up a belay below where the actual climbing starts.
pheotleyr - AltLd dog - 24/Oct/13 with Ben

steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/13 with Nick Russel

All four pitches were good, but I think the highlight was the technical arete on p3. Awesome views of Spacehunter wall too! Would be better if it wasn't for the two sections of scrambling up vegetated ledges.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/13 with Steve Gibbs

mike kann - 2013

Intersting stinging nettles approach. Managed to get stung on the nose! Climbing was cool, one rest on P2 (need more flexibility), otherwise clean. P3 felt hard for 6b, all pretty tenuous and balancy. Very good route though and all the pitches had interesting climbing. So 2* We ended up taking our shoes and walking back to the Black Gate as the approach through Shoot gully was shite and we didn't relish tumbling down it on the way back!
francois - AltLd - 21/Oct/12 with Chris

Great, exposed route! Felt harder due to seepage on critical holds... I lead P1 and P3. Took a fairly big inverted fall on P3 (6b arete). Top tip: if it says "climb the arete", then climb the bloody arete and don't be tempted to move to what looks like better holds either side, like I did!!!!
BelayBunney - AltLd dog - 21/Oct/12 with Francois

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/12

phardy - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

jbulger - AltLd - 07/Jan/12 with Darren Russell

mandy - AltLd - 27/Dec/11 with rick

bonelessivar - AltLd - 27/Dec/11 with Andy

thomb - AltLd - 06/Nov/11 with Gareth

This climb was too hard for me to do the clean onsight thing, but I knew it would be and really just wanted the experience of 'climbing' a full height route in the gorge. All four pitches are really good especially pitches 2 and 3.
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 06/Nov/11 with Ivan

Four good pitches, pretty cold on fingers and topped out in darkness (due to late start and slow team ahead). Glad to have got the nerve up to do the route. I led 1 & 3. My leads were both fairly clean, the pitches I seconded were both properly dogged, well I'm not a 6b+ climber (crux) and I rushed the last pitch in the gathering dark (ripped open a big flapper on my finger doing this).
The Ivanator - AltLd - 06/Nov/11 with Toby

DorsetGareth - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Tom B

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 29/Oct/11

Absolutely brilliant route! Had a great day out, even though I fell off twice on the crux pitch, and had a couple of rests on the route. Guess that means I'm pushing myself! Will be back to lead it clean, and to have a go at 'Castles Made of Sand'. Chris P1,3. Chakrit P2,4.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/11 with Chakrit Suriyo

A greasy adventure which started in thick fog and topped out in sunshine 4 hours later! Damp and warm conditions made route tough for grade today. Horrible wet muddy approach up Shoot Gulley and across nettle field. p1 led rp1; p2 2nd dog; p3 2nd o/s; p4 led o/s. Abbed down in 2 with 50m half ropes. Sopping wet grassy slopes with masses of stinging nettles lets the route down - 1 star for rock, 1 star for atmosphere and exposure but not a 3 star route imo.
Jon Didymus - AltLd - 13/Oct/11 with Rich

Jon lead pitch 1, i lead pitch 2 & 3, Jon lead pitch 4. Not a 3 star route.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/11 with Jon Didymus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Led the second (6b+) crux pitch and the final (6a) pitch. I don't think its anywhere near as good as its hype suggests though its still worth a star.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Rob Stanfield

Very painful approach with the stinging nettles. OW! Still throbbing. Led 6a+ and 6b pitch. Found the 6a+ pitch not too bad but engagingly enjoyable. Might not have managed 6b+ pitch without the beta from belaying. Found the 6b pitch very awkward and slopy. Took a while to find the crucial hold around halfway up, very close to giving up. Stuggled with route finding before the 6b aswell as the "peg" that is mentioned was on the opposite side of the ledge. Thankfully got pointed which way to go by climbers on space hunter wall. Bit tired by final pitch so probably felt harder than it was. Sunset view on top was totally worthwhile. Descent down gulley was quite literally a pain in the arse. Great route, but only 2*'S in my opinion. Happy days.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Jim Slater - AltLd dog - 01/Oct/11 with John Bramwell

Led P1, dogged P2, fell in nettles on P3, gave up on P4.
RedFox - AltLd dnf - 09/Apr/11 with Tom K

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Stu

P1 6a+ L 2nd try (frozen fingers). P2 6b+ S dog (frozen fingers, got crux when tried a different sequence). P3 6b L OS. P4 6a L OS. The recommended descent down Shoot Gully is horrendous. It is too lethally loose to scramble down. We ended up abbing using trees along the edge, draggin my rope through the muck. No fun, especially with signs in the gully warning that the trees in it are loose.
ericinbristol - AltLd - 28/Feb/11 with Adam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead - 06/Feb/11

2 + 4, had a quick sit on rope on crux of P2 to work out the move.
Greg Pittam - AltLd RP - 30/Oct/10 with Joe Spoor

Hidden - AltLd dog - 25/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/10

Lead second pitch, Ali Lead other three, Found route hard with thumb injury. Awesome fun multi-pitch sport route.
specialboy - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/10 with Ali Graham

rockcrimper - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/10 with Rowan Scott

With Willow and Will. Pitch 2&4 lead. A good Gorge experience.
TommityP - AltLd - 15/Oct/10

Not that impressed with this is route. Don't know where the 3 stars come from!
dave657 - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with paul b

Poor
irish paul - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Dave Ripley

Ace! Fell off P1 twice pulling off holds! Dogged P2 too.
Chubbard - AltLd dog - 09/Oct/10 with Derek

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - Oct/10 with henry castle

P2+4
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Marti

need to wear a helmet, some lose ibits can be knock of by partys above, can be busy.
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Ed Babington

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/10

Rosea Day - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Thomas Heslam

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Dec/09

JimR - 30/Oct/09

andy dunn - AltLd - 18/Oct/09 with J

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/08

Superb.
Paz - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08 with MT

Reachy P2. Quite hard move if you are short.... which luckily I'm not. Overall, low in the grade. Nice climbing but a shame about the scrambling pitches.
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Pippa Froggatt

Sat on a bolt on P2 to warm frozen fingers
Paul Robertson - AltLd - 25/Oct/07 with Mark Courtiour

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/07

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Voting
Total votes cast 50
hard 6c0 of 23
6c0 of 23
easy 6c2 of 23
hard 6b+1 of 23
6b+19 of 23
easy 6b+1 of 23
hard 6b0 of 23
6b0 of 23
easy 6b0 of 23
3 Stars7 of 27
2 Stars11 of 27
1 Star9 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Lead9 of 57 (15.8%)
Followed1 of 57 (1.8%)
Alt Leads44 of 57 (77.2%)
Unknown3 of 57 (5.3%)

'Climbed'20 of 57 (35.1%)
clean O/S21 of 57 (36.8%)
clean rpt2 of 57 (3.5%)
clean RP1 of 57 (1.8%)
dogged9 of 57 (15.8%)
dnf4 of 57 (7.0%)