100m, 7 pitches. Diverse and mostly amenable climbing on a direct line that ascends the full height of the Pinnacle Bay. The climb is well bolted throughout (F6a+ obl). It is possible to abseil from rim to floor – 70m rope required (note: first abseil is exactly 35m so be careful). Shoot Gully is the scramble descent recommended in the guidebook: while it is okay at first it quickly becomes treacherous - very loose and slippery and there are two notices warning people of trees that might give way. Trying to scramble down could easily be fatal. There are some good trees to ab from, and a 60m rope gets you down in two abseils, or three if you want to go all the way to the rock catch fence.
(1) 20m. F6a+
Ascend an initial easy slab then make a stiff pull diagonally leftwards through the bulge. Follow the easy corner above to a good ledge and belay at a double ring abseil station on wider ledge just above. Eight bolt runners.
(2) 20m. F6b+
Climb the elegant technical groove before continuing more easily up rightwards on large holds to a semi-hanging stance at a three bolt abseil station (with two rings). Seven bolt runners.
(3) 7m. -
Pull up onto the slope above and scramble up to a tree belay (with a belay bolt just above)
(4) 16m. F6b.
Move up onto a raised ledge (peg runner) then step up and swing around onto the left side of the aręte. Follow the aręte to a pleasant mid-height resting ledge. Clip a high bolt runner on the right before continuing up the left side of the aręte and finishing leftwards to a ledge and double ring abseil station in a short corner. Seven bolt runners.
(5) 7m. –
Make a final move up the short corner to gain a narrow ledge above, then step across to the right and scramble carefully up the grass slope to reach the walkway and bolt belays on the left of a clean corner. One bolt runner.
(6) 30m. F6a. Surmount an initial bulge to gain a slight groove and continue straight up on the wall on continually surprising holds to reach a slight upper groove. At the top of this step across to the right on a wide ledge and finish up an awkward scoop to a hanging stance at a double ring abseil station. Thirteen bolt runners.
(7) Pull over onto the summit and walk up the slope to belay in the welcome sunshine at a convenient tree.

FA: (Pitches 1-5) Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 14th January 2007. FA: (Pitch 6) Gordon A Jenkin, Martin J Crocker (both led), Yvonne Jones 3rd February 2007

Ticklists: Cheddar Intermediate, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins.


ClimberDateStyle
richiebongo 15/May Lead rpt

1st pitch only

with Nick Smith
Gloria 15/May Lead
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden 14/Mar AltLd O/S
alice fuller 14/Mar AltLd

Pete kindly gave me P2 and 4. Thought all pitches had their challenges. Great day out.

twill 27/Feb AltLd

Lead Pitch 1 and 3

with Ed Walker
Paul Baller 16/Jan Lead O/S

-3 deg at start!

with matt stevens
simonsnake77 13/Dec/15 AltLd dog

An amazing adventure in conditions that would surely deter most sensible climbers. Always up for a challenge I struggled up my first lead on P1 despite rivulets of water running down the rock face. P2 was difficult in the damp but really only has one really hard move. I was gutted to realise I'd left our approach shoes at the bottom so had to be lowered off and climb again! P3 was my lead and the arête in the wet was virtually impossible, felt like 6c+ and still can't believe I did it. P4 was long 30M but thankfully easier climbing after a really hard first move. Finally topped out at 3.30pm just in time to see a base jumper take the plunge! Epic adventure, can't wait to do it in the dry.

Matti Puckridge 01/Nov/15 AltLd

Pitch 1: Very wet for the first 5 meters. Pitch 2: Pretty desperate for a 6b+ but might've been due to conditions. Pitch 3: Nice arete climbing with a stingy nettle finish. Pitch 4: Airy topout on loose rock added some spice.

Edward Kwong 01/Nov/15 AltLd dog

Lead second and final pitch (dogged and clean respectively). Slightly damp and muddy, so not ideal conditions, and route felt harder than grade suggested. 1 - Wet, one tricky move to pull left 2 - Hard, techy 3 - Delicate. Oddly couldn't find the bolt belay, used the tree instead. 4 - Long but steady, partners found a couple of loose bits though thankfully I managed to avoid them. Despite difficulties, was an epic adventure finally getting over the airy top section. 10 mins of sunshine before the fog descended. First proper multi-pitch :D

rachelvlc 01/Nov/15 2nd
mop449 26/Oct/15 Lead dog

Just p1, was very wet.

with Sam Clark
superturbo 26/Oct/15 AltLd

With Jon and Tom

Tomar 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Only the first 2 pitches, good climbing. The rest looked of dubious quality

with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

First two pitches only

with Tomar
HappyTrundler 08/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2,3 and 4 all seemed hard for the grades, desperate move on pitch 2! Great route though, on a lovely mild day.

with Chas
LJKing 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

A rare foray into the 'dark arts'!

with Adrian Botting
littleluke 10/May/15 Lead O/S
kennythescot 15/Mar/15 AltLd dog
with Luke Robinson
DredStripe 14/Mar/15 AltLd dog
thomas108 ??/2015 -
robbo99 13/Dec/14 AltLd dog

Led pitches 2 and 4 on a freezing December morning. Plenty of wet holds/seepage. Felt harder than 6b as a result. Difficult belay from top of 1st pitch due to angle of rope across terrace; recommend the extra effort to climb up and clip 1st/2nd bolts above belay station. Some bloke BASE jumped right next to us! Epic descent near shoot gully in the dark = lost phone

Hidden 13/Dec/14 AltLd dog
Hidden 01/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
JHC 09/Nov/14 Lead dnf

P1 only, was too wet to continue

FL1PD4N ?/Nov/14 2nd

Climbed the last pitch in the dark. Great day out

Kemics 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Pitches 3 and 4 both felt nails. Pitch 4 felt as hard as crux pitch but maybe that's poor endurance and cold hands.

youwillfindjimbo 05/Oct/14 AltLd

Amazing climb, did the wrong first pitch (a few metres to the right) but scrambled back onto line for second. I really struggled seconding crux move with heavy backpack on, I blame that!! Amazing third arete pitch!

with Dan Ely
felixizzy 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

p2&4

with Bernard
dereke12000 01/Oct/14 AltLd

Amazing. P2 was hard though! Led first halves of P3 and P4 then set up belay stances to bring Ian up. Could not describe it as clean onsight, but great fun...

with Ian
Rupey 15/Mar/14 AltLd
with alan
markfromstoke 12/Mar/14 -
with Ian
ian d f 12/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Mark
td72 ??/2014 -
pheotleyr 12/Dec/13 AltLd dog

Led pitches 1 & 3 (counting only proper pitches). Everything clean except for the crux of the 6b+ pitch. Doesn't seem to like me...

with Michael
Cheese Monkey 24/Oct/13 AltLd

Led p2,3. Fell on p1 when foot came off wet hold. Fell on p2, greasy crux and hard sequence!

with Peter
pheotleyr 24/Oct/13 AltLd dog

Dogged pitch 1 on lead, was wet. Rested on the ropes on pitch 2 on second several times, its crux was hard. Seconded pitch 3 and lead pitch 4 both clean. Was quite scared to hit the big ledge on pitch 4 for quite a while, probably worth setting up a belay below where the actual climbing starts.

with Ben
steve_gibbs 23/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Nick Russel
Nick Russell 23/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

All four pitches were good, but I think the highlight was the technical arete on p3. Awesome views of Spacehunter wall too! Would be better if it wasn't for the two sections of scrambling up vegetated ledges.

beardy mike ??/2013 -
francois 21/Oct/12 AltLd

Intersting stinging nettles approach. Managed to get stung on the nose! Climbing was cool, one rest on P2 (need more flexibility), otherwise clean. P3 felt hard for 6b, all pretty tenuous and balancy. Very good route though and all the pitches had interesting climbing. So 2* We ended up taking our shoes and walking back to the Black Gate as the approach through Shoot gully was shite and we didn't relish tumbling down it on the way back!

with Chris
BelayBunney 21/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Great, exposed route! Felt harder due to seepage on critical holds... I lead P1 and P3. Took a fairly big inverted fall on P3 (6b arete). Top tip: if it says "climb the arete", then climb the bloody arete and don't be tempted to move to what looks like better holds either side, like I did!!!!

Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead dnf
phardy 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
jbulger 07/Jan/12 AltLd
mandy 27/Dec/11 AltLd
with rick
bonelessivar 27/Dec/11 AltLd
with Andy
thomb 06/Nov/11 AltLd
with Gareth
Ybot Htulk 06/Nov/11 AltLd

This climb was too hard for me to do the clean onsight thing, but I knew it would be and really just wanted the experience of 'climbing' a full height route in the gorge. All four pitches are really good especially pitches 2 and 3.

with Ivan
The Ivanator 06/Nov/11 AltLd

Four good pitches, pretty cold on fingers and topped out in darkness (due to late start and slow team ahead). Glad to have got the nerve up to do the route. I led 1 & 3. My leads were both fairly clean, the pitches I seconded were both properly dogged, well I'm not a 6b+ climber (crux) and I rushed the last pitch in the gathering dark (ripped open a big flapper on my finger doing this).

with Toby
DorsetGareth 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom B
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd dnf
Chris Sansum 16/Oct/11 AltLd dog

Absolutely brilliant route! Had a great day out, even though I fell off twice on the crux pitch, and had a couple of rests on the route. Guess that means I'm pushing myself! Will be back to lead it clean, and to have a go at 'Castles Made of Sand'. Chris P1,3. Chakrit P2,4.

Didymus 13/Oct/11 AltLd

A greasy adventure which started in thick fog and topped out in sunshine 4 hours later! Damp and warm conditions made route tough for grade today. Horrible wet muddy approach up Shoot Gulley and across nettle field. p1 led rp1; p2 2nd dog; p3 2nd o/s; p4 led o/s. Abbed down in 2 with 50m half ropes. Sopping wet grassy slopes with masses of stinging nettles lets the route down - 1 star for rock, 1 star for atmosphere and exposure but not a 3 star route imo.

with Rich
richiebongo 11/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Jon lead pitch 1, i lead pitch 2 & 3, Jon lead pitch 4. Not a 3 star route.

with Jon Didymus
chakrit 06/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Quarryboy 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Led the second (6b+) crux pitch and the final (6a) pitch. I don't think its anywhere near as good as its hype suggests though its still worth a star.

Stanners 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Very painful approach with the stinging nettles. OW! Still throbbing. Led 6a+ and 6b pitch. Found the 6a+ pitch not too bad but engagingly enjoyable. Might not have managed 6b+ pitch without the beta from belaying. Found the 6b pitch very awkward and slopy. Took a while to find the crucial hold around halfway up, very close to giving up. Stuggled with route finding before the 6b aswell as the "peg" that is mentioned was on the opposite side of the ledge. Thankfully got pointed which way to go by climbers on space hunter wall. Bit tired by final pitch so probably felt harder than it was. Sunset view on top was totally worthwhile. Descent down gulley was quite literally a pain in the arse. Great route, but only 2*'S in my opinion. Happy days.

Jim Slater 01/Oct/11 AltLd dog
sdi 09/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

Led P1, dogged P2, fell in nettles on P3, gave up on P4.

with Tom K
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
ericinbristol 28/Feb/11 AltLd

P1 6a+ L 2nd try (frozen fingers). P2 6b+ S dog (frozen fingers, got crux when tried a different sequence). P3 6b L OS. P4 6a L OS. The recommended descent down Shoot Gully is horrendous. It is too lethally loose to scramble down. We ended up abbing using trees along the edge, draggin my rope through the muck. No fun, especially with signs in the gully warning that the trees in it are loose.

Hidden 06/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/11 Lead
Greg Pittam 30/Oct/10 AltLd RP

2 + 4, had a quick sit on rope on crux of P2 to work out the move.

with Joe Spoor
Hidden 25/Oct/10 AltLd dog
just one more 25/Oct/10 Lead
with tony l
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt
rowanrs 17/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Lead second pitch, Ali Lead other three, Found route hard with thumb injury. Awesome fun multi-pitch sport route.

with Ali Graham
rockcrimper 17/Oct/10 AltLd dog
Hidden 15/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd
irish paul 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Poor

with Dave Ripley
Chubbard 09/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Ace! Fell off P1 twice pulling off holds! Dogged P2 too.

with Derek
Phil PBC ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
Ed Babs 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

P2+4

with Marti
Marti999 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

need to wear a helmet, some lose ibits can be knock of by partys above, can be busy.

Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead
Rosea Day ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
Hidden 07/Dec/09 AltLd rpt
JimR 30/Oct/09 -
andy dunn 18/Oct/09 AltLd
with J
Hidden 07/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Paz 02/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Superb.

with MT
chris sm 03/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Reachy P2. Quite hard move if you are short.... which luckily I'm not. Overall, low in the grade. Nice climbing but a shame about the scrambling pitches.

with Pippa Froggatt
Paul Robertson 25/Oct/07 AltLd

Sat on a bolt on P2 to warm frozen fingers

with Mark Courtiour
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set