Finesse* E4 5c
[Crucial Rock 5 on the first pitch..., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A stiff first pitch contrasts with a death-defying unprotected second. Start below a thin, left-facing flake right of the main left to right weakness.
1) 5c, 17m. Make difficult fingery moves to gain and then leave the flake rightwards to eventually reach more substantial holds in a crack that comes in from the right. Continue with less difficulty up flakes and cracks to a narrow ledge and a high spike plus nut belays.
2) 5c, 16m. Unprotected. Follow the line of holds rightwards up the wall and then step up right onto scooped holds before making a heart-in-mouth friction move to better holds and easier ground above. Thread belays in blocks well back. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Crucial Rock 5 on the first pitch... © Fiend
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hardest climb we have done to date, but what a fantastic climb, strong technical first pitch, followed buy unbelievable balance/foot work and huge balls on the second pitch.
waydan - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/15 with El Swiftos

Wendy Watthews - TR O/S - 29/Nov/14 with cuc

Top-roped at the end of the day, don't think I'll be leading this for a while. Awesome balanced climbing.
JoeCoxson - TR O/S - 29/Nov/14

dready - TR rpt - 07/Aug/14 with shunt

need to lead this
dready - TR rpt - 29/Jun/14 with shunt

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/May/13

small but positive
dready - TR O/S - 19/Apr/13

Pretty wildly dangerous, with a very precarious crux
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2013 with Siebe Vanhee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

I found the step up at the end of the traverse on pitch 2 really hard. Thought it was 6a. Imagining the gorse bush on the ledge you would hit if you fell off as a bouldering mat helped.
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Katherine Sydney

Very easy E2. 2nd pitch is about Fr 5c+.
Harald - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/10

One single long pitch. Delicate face climbing protected by a small wire and a cam, then one must trust the rubber for a bold (E4 !) move way above the only available piece of protection: a small wire hitched over a pebble.
verticon - Lead β - 15/May/10 with Craig Harwood

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/10

Never been so scared in my life! So satisfying
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Mungo Nash

JerryD - 2010

Hidden - 2010

feilx - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Andy L

jfletcher - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Bob Lambourne

DorsetGareth - 2nd - 05/Nov/07 with Andy & Fiona

Oddjob - TR O/S - 05/Apr/07 with Joe

mattshort - TR O/S - 05/Apr/07

robbo157 - Lead O/S - 05/May/06

a_radiohead_fan - Lead dnf - 2005 with bottled the second pitch which is where the e4 part was. great climbing till then

Hidden - TR - 24/Apr/04

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Apr/04 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - TR - Mar/04

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/03

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/02 with Roy Thomas, Kaspar Martin

Nigel Coe - Lead - 28/May/00 with Scott Titt

A route to have done, not to do!
andy_pemberton - AltLd - Mar/98 with Brian Hannon

Hidden - Lead - 1998

In 1 pitch
steve taylor - Lead - Apr/92 with stumpy

Hidden - TR - 18/Jul/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/87

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dready, johnpr

Total votes cast 23
hard E50 of 8
E50 of 8
easy E50 of 8
hard E45 of 8
E41 of 8
easy E41 of 8
hard E31 of 8
E30 of 8
easy E30 of 8
hard 6a0 of 8
6a0 of 8
easy 6a1 of 8
hard 5c2 of 8
5c4 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
hard 5b1 of 8
5b0 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
3 Stars4 of 7
2 Stars2 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars1 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat