Rockfax Description
A stiff first pitch contrasts with a death-defying unprotected second. Start below a thin, left-facing flake right of the main left to right weakness.
1) 5c, 17m. Make difficult fingery moves to gain and then leave the flake rightwards to eventually reach more substantial holds in a crack that comes in from the right. Continue with less difficulty up flakes and cracks to a narrow ledge and a high spike plus nut belays.
2) 5c, 16m. Unprotected. Follow the line of holds rightwards up the wall and then step up right onto scooped holds before making a heart-in-mouth friction move to better holds and easier ground above. Thread belays in blocks well back. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

waydan 02/Oct AltLd O/S

Hardest climb we have done to date, but what a fantastic climb, strong technical first pitch, followed buy unbelievable balance/foot work and huge balls on the second pitch.

Wendy Watthews 29/Nov/14 TR O/S
with cuc
JoeCoxson 29/Nov/14 TR O/S

Top-roped at the end of the day, don't think I'll be leading this for a while. Awesome balanced climbing.

dready 07/Aug/14 TR rpt
with shunt
dready 29/Jun/14 TR rpt

need to lead this

with shunt
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dnf
dready 19/Apr/13 TR O/S

small but positive

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead O/S

Pretty wildly dangerous, with a very precarious crux

with Siebe Vanhee
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

I found the step up at the end of the traverse on pitch 2 really hard. Thought it was 6a. Imagining the gorse bush on the ledge you would hit if you fell off as a bouldering mat helped.

Harald 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Very easy E2. 2nd pitch is about Fr 5c+.

Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
verticon 15/May/10 Lead β

One single long pitch. Delicate face climbing protected by a small wire and a cam, then one must trust the rubber for a bold (E4 !) move way above the only available piece of protection: a small wire hitched over a pebble.

with Craig Harwood
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd
Rowansb 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Never been so scared in my life! So satisfying

with Mungo Nash
JerryD ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
feilx 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy L
jfletcher 17/Oct/08 Lead
DorsetGareth 05/Nov/07 2nd
with Andy & Fiona
Oddjob 05/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Joe
mattshort 05/Apr/07 TR O/S
robbo157 05/May/06 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 Lead dnf
with bottled the second pitch which is where the e4 part was. great climbing till then
Samuel P 24/Apr/04 TR


Mark Kemball 08/Apr/04 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden ?/Mar/04 TR
Samuel P 27/Apr/03 2nd
with Luke
goi.ashmore 07/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas, Kaspar Martin
Nigel Coe 28/May/00 Lead
Hidden 28/May/00 2nd
andy_pemberton ?/Mar/98 AltLd

A route to have done, not to do!

with Brian Hannon
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
steve taylor ?/Apr/92 Lead

In 1 pitch

with stumpy
Hidden 18/Jul/90 TR
Hidden 26/Sep/87 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dready, johnpr, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set