Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
Heaven Can Wait HS 4b

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38m, 2 pitches. P1 18m 4b. Start right of Om Puri, just right of where the lower overlap meets the ground. Climb to a break in the overlap and continue to the terrace. P2 20m 4a. Walk left along the terrace to the corner which bounds the rectangular slab on its left. Climb the corner and the arete above: then trend left to finish.
G Palmer, M Rourke 06/Oct/2007
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This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

davidclare - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Klara Marsikova

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13

Lead pitch one
SamanthaRoach12 - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with ianlaw

ali macphee - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/13

ali macphee - AltLd - 28/Aug/13

BBEENN - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13

gjh - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

johnl - Solo rpt - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

1st pitch only to get to terrace!
BALD EAGLE - Lead - 05/Jun/13 with James Pomeroy

P1 only. Not too memorable.
Poco Loco - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Bald Eagle

Climbed as one pitch. Bit sketchy with all that slack hanging over the large terrace, but easy enough.
Echna - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Rich

johnl - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Adam Perrett

lead second pitch boring!
rustyfishhook - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Fowler

Trippinjester - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Jamie Knight

Adam Perrett - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with John Leonard

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/13

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

Finish left by the sapling. Spaced gear on second pitch. Horrible fall potential, but easy moves. Incredibly loose finish.
homing-penguin - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with David

Nix33 - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 29/Sep/12

sheelba - AltLd - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 16/Sep/12

Pitch 1 only
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Kirsten, Mick

P1, very run out at start
kirsten - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Brian

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12

bradholmes - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Chris Bonner

Pitch 1
bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 19/Jul/12

mallardhealhook - Lead - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/12

J.Atkins - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/12

With more direct start, and second pitch up the corner all the way. 18m HS 4a, 8m walk left, 21m 4a.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/11 with Clare

Not sure if it is this route, but up the centre of the blank but easy angled slab to an overlap with a diagonal crack. Straight over this and up to the terrace over loose ground. Didn't do top pitch, but first pitch was technically easy (VD?) but without much gear. Maybe Severe?
James Moyle - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11 with piers cunliffe, D. Murphy

direct start which is much much better
The Pylon King - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/11

First time on second pitch. Same start as Om Puri pitch 2, boldly up the rectangular slab to the good horizontal crack. Stand up in this; then step left to the small arÍte. Up this, pass left of a sapling, and trend left to finish just right of another sapling. 22m, 4b.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Clare

bpmclimb - TR O/S - 14/Mar/11 with Shunt

Solo'd the first pitch.
stuntsbyjon - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Sebo

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/07

Pitch 1. Used to be Slab to Right of Om Puri
cas smerdon - Lead - 18/Jun/07 with Ian Jones

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/07

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Jonathan Storey

Total votes cast 11
hard VS0 of 4
VS0 of 4
easy VS1 of 4
hard HS0 of 4
HS2 of 4
easy HS1 of 4
hard S0 of 4
S0 of 4
easy S0 of 4
hard 4c0 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
hard 4b1 of 5
4b0 of 5
easy 4b1 of 5
hard 4a3 of 5
4a0 of 5
easy 4a0 of 5
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars0 of 2
1 Star0 of 2
0 Stars1 of 2
Bag of .....1 of 2
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 55 (10.9%)
Lead29 of 55 (52.7%)
Followed8 of 55 (14.5%)
Toproped1 of 55 (1.8%)
Alt Leads10 of 55 (18.2%)
Unknown1 of 55 (1.8%)

'Climbed'17 of 55 (30.9%)
clean O/S31 of 55 (56.4%)
clean rpt7 of 55 (12.7%)