Paco Eugene*** 6a
2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and classic expedition. Start at the base of the face. The lower two pitches need a small rack. If you wish to do the upper section of the route only, it can be reached via pitch 1 of Nirvana.
1) 5, 18m. Climb the wall past some bolts. Wires needed.
2) 4, 23m. Continue up the easiest line to a large belay ledge. Wires needed.
3) 5, 15m. Climb up leftward to the start a crack system.
4) 6a, 24m. The crack to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Wander up from the base of the gorge for 2 pitches (wires needed), or gain the stance at the start of the main groove from Nirvana (better, and more usual). From the stance, step left and climb up the twisting grooves, normally in 2 pitches.

Ticklists: El Chorro dreams - 6a to 6c+, El Chorro dreams - 6a to 6c+.

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This climb is in 20 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

approached via the jungle of Nirvana P1 (5! approached that by ab from upper routes) to the start of P3, then couldn't finds any bolts, only a chopped stud, so bailed not knowing the state of the rest of it or having any gear.
lithos - 09/Apr/14 with Pete Bradshaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/14

Pitches 2 & 4
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/13 with Chris Vanderz

Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/11

monika paprzycka - 2nd - 14/Oct/11 with Jeremy Axford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11

a hysterical ascent, worthy of afroman himself.
ferdia - AltLd dog - 04/Apr/10 with Calum

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Rob Leuhman

mrmike24 - Lead - Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Lowered off after first 2 pitches
Jo Davison - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Dougie

first two pitches. couldnt work out where to go then.
dswansonlow - Lead dnf - 20/Dec/09 with Jo Davison

Bottom two pitches only, started too late - Great climb
Tom_Harding - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Mat

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 02/Apr/09

Ched - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/95 with Iolo

Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/95 with Julian Cooper

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/94 with Dee Herbert

led crux pitch at top. Was originaly four or five pitches - two good 5a pitches on bolts up wall. A VS needing gear, then final excellent pitch with crux at top.
Scott McRae - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with Steve Jones

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