South Gully*** IV 5
[Winter climbing and rock climbing in the same weekend?! LLAMFF 2006 weekend!
After doing South Gully., 2 kb]140m, 4 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Winter climbing and rock climbing in the same weekend?! LLAMFF 2006 weekend! After doing South Gully. © Adam Booth
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This climb is in 184 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 2015 with Stu Harth

saintlade - 2014

mileshill540 - Lead - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13

I led p1. Fantastic!
Binder - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with David B, Toby

jamesh - AltLd - 06/Apr/13 with Jim Unwin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

Great route in good condition, with lovely weather. A pleasure!
gravity - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with George, David

Olly led the crux pitch through sword of Damocles icicles and mind-warping ice mushrooms.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Olly Saunders

tim newton - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with stuart lade

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13

p2,4 (the easy ones). crazy ice umbrellas!
timofy - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13

jon clayton - Lead - 01/Apr/13 with Dave Hanham

robbraby - 2nd - Apr/13 with Steveo

adie84 - 31/Mar/13 with Ben Wolstenholme

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 31/Mar/13 with Rob Adie

Fantastic route with some amazing ice formations (umbrella icicles). Led final pitch.
Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13

Adam led p1/2, I did the rest. Amazing route, great dun on good ice. Some really cool formations!
ianstevens - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Adam Bloch

beautiful route, pumpy and a little exciting. ice in good condition.
thomb - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Jess

gw3285 - AltLd - 30/Mar/13

ad111 - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13

G ran P!&2 together 45m, I led P3 up main icefall and around the massive overhanging ice umbrellas. Imtimidating, technical but a fantastic route. P4 exit up Gully with a few ice steps.
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Gareth Williams

Brilliant climbing, steep and then technical. Really pleased that I've ticked it after waiting a few years for it, and me, to come into condition.
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with herman0055, George Best

SPD224 - Lead - 29/Mar/13 with William Day

Great umbrellas on second pitch. Helen led mini middle pitch and top easy ground. Had a bit of a mare through crux on my old axes with no leashes.
philhilo - AltLd rpt - 29/Mar/13 with Helen E

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/13

herman0055 - 2nd - 29/Mar/13 with Zoomer

gingergeorge - 2nd - 29/Mar/13 with Glen Bloomer

Classic 3star ice in great nik after work at the end of march... Was clipping bolts in the sun a week ago.. Wtf... Ace..
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/13 with jo

Awesome climb probably harder than some Scottish v ( easy ones like the pumpkin)..... Blue skies and fat ice, i used all my screws on the main pitch including the 21 cm ones! Beware of falling ice from above!!! I lead all the harder pitches, Rob finished the leading off after the crux pitch
CurlyStevo - Lead - Mar/13 with Rob

Seemed like the best option in Idwal in thawing conditions. Led P1, nice ice to start with, the crux was getting up the narrow section at the top of the pitch as quickly as possible so as not to get too soaked by the stream running down it, without collapsing the crumbling ice there. Ken led P2, which had decent ice but was pretty wet due to a combination of rain and water streaming down the centre of the ice sheet. I did P3, which had a couple of interesting mixed type sections which probably aren't there when it's in good nick! A very wet but kind of fun day.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/13 with Ken

Great route- hardest winter route to date. P1 Phil P2 Jim
bobpilgrem - 2nd - 25/Jan/13 with Jim/Phil

3kidsandanorton - AltLd - 24/Jan/13 with Diccon Proctor

Enough ice there though not copious. The left hand side of 2nd pitch was thicker than the line described in guidebook (RHS).
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/13 with Rod White

DannyK - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/13 with chrislgk, pep

AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/13 with Bob Johnson

Hidden - 2012

Pay Attention - Lead - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Mark Salter - 2011

willson - 26/Dec/10 with Wills, ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/10

sam820 - 2nd O/S - 26/Dec/10 with Matt Sutton

Betha. - 2nd O/S - 25/Dec/10 with Neil D

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Dec/10

Top route, bit wet at the bottom.
AMarchant - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/10 with Ally Hurst

Neil D - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/10 with Beth Hodgett

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Dec/10

Thin on the first pitch, but otherwise excellent.
Rampikino - Lead - 23/Dec/10 with Cat

All there! We were the last up it - came down at dusk. Partner was Dom Gill
capcolliedog - AltLd - 23/Dec/10

thin first pitch
david morse - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10 with oli, lole

oliverharold - 2nd - 22/Dec/10 with david morse

Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10

First ever ice climb. Led crux pitch.
Adam Lincoln - AltLd - 22/Dec/10 with Ash

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10

Matt1234 - 2nd O/S - 22/Dec/10

Pitch 2. Brilliant route!
ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/10 with Ben

led P1,P3, steve led P2. Superb route fairly chopped out so didn't feel too hard.
cragtyke - AltLd - 09/Dec/10 with Steve G

Hidden - 08/Dec/10

lead main ice pitch. awesome but had seen allot of traffic so was stepped making it mega easy. good pitch anyway.
samrad - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with james G

Lead P1 Great route, shame it was a it hacked so made a little easier.
farmus21 - AltLd - 07/Dec/10 with Sam Radcliffe

joese7en - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/10

Led the long crux pitch.....fantastic!
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/10 with andysroom, Richard Lines

In steep but fairly fat condition, main icefall pitch took lots of screws. The ice is slightly thicker on the right but more steep and not hacked out
Hannes - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/Dec/10

A bit thin, so at the higher end of the grade. We added a belay near the top of the long ice section (pitch 3), I seconded the first half of this pitch and led through to do the second half. Hannes discovered that dropping ice screws is a bad idea...
the_one_jim - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/10

Good climb, steep at the top of the third pitch, but good screws up there
garethMottram - Lead β - 06/Dec/10 with Georgina Dawkins

Led P3
andysroom - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/10

Spent the majority of the day queuing before each pitch but worth it as a great route. Led the 2nd pitch.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Stewart Young

Lead the snow slopes out the top. First pitch was interesting with Andy losing a crampon
ojp - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10

Paul led both pitches.
DubyaJamesDubya - 2nd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Ian Smith, Paul Hennelly

jon clayton - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with dan commander

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with JC

Cracking route, bottom pitch thin and slushy - no real pro. Tom led belting second pitch with a huge chandelier over the pillar route on the right. Load of powder on third pitch. Leave the rock gear at home and take stubbies in current conditions
iksander - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with freemanTom (Guildford MC)

Awesome route, lead middle pitch, pretty long and sustained. A rare non dogged Joe Brown tick.
freemanTom - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Asbo

Topper Harley - AltLd - 04/Dec/10

I love this route. Dude, I still have half your walking pole. Drop me an email if you want it back.
ruaidh - 2nd - 04/Dec/10 with mike, carl

nice, topped out by 9.30 am! quick one before work
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 03/Dec/10 with leo nathan

martinbettridge06 - AltLd - Dec/10 with colk1000

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

Lovely route
Tim Sparrow - Solo - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/10

kenneM - Lead O/S - Dec/10 with Carl Davies

In condition but ice still thin in places. Awesome climb
skippyridgway - 2nd - 29/Nov/10

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - Feb/10 with Dad

juza - Lead - 17/Jan/10 with Andy D

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

frost - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jan/10

I lead crux pitch
Dave Heaton - AltLd - 12/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10

Lead the first 2 pitches as 1, Laurence didn't fancy the 2 main pitch. I then tried it for a bit before running away.
Ewan Russell - Lead dnf - 10/Jan/10 with Laurence King

Main pitch 2 went easily enough but belay (off two screws and an ice pillar) hung out a bit so felt serious. Used eight screws and a chopped out ice-threaded on the pitch itself. Great Sunday climb after a big day yesterday. Could've been in Lillaz. Top fun.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jan/10

Hidden - 09/Jan/10

The Bad Cough - AltLd rpt - 09/Jan/10 with Tom Williams, John Sealey

stoned - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with jon22, The Bad Cough

lead first and last pitch. ace
spidey - AltLd - 09/Jan/10

wilkie14c - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Mark Wilson, Dave Clarke

Mark Wilson23 - 2nd - 08/Jan/10 with Dave Clarke, Paul blanchard

A great route for my first tech 5 lead. After climbing in the shadow of the Cwm all week we made an effort to thrash up to the Glyders after topping out, arriving at the summit just in time to catch an awesome sunset. Descent via Gribin Ridge.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Grayham Stephenson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jan/10

Cardi - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/10 with Steve B, Andy F

led pitches 1 and 2 then soloed out. wished i had more than 5 ice screws, goggles and warm gloves.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/10 with Mikey G

timjones - Lead - 05/Jan/10 with Andy McQue

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/10 with Rob Bryniarski

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10

an awesome climb! especially the slight overhanging ice. good protection, first pitch cab be protected by the 2 piton hammered in on the left side once your on more level ground.
katie75 - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/10 with ryan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10

Easy, plastic ice. On P2 took steeper line on the right hand side, then traversed left into the 'normal' line closer to the overhanging rock wall as the ice at the top looked dodgy on the right hand side (the pillar hadn't formed). 2nd solo of the day.
Misha - Solo O/S - 02/Jan/10

Busy! We were behind 3 other parties when we reached the base at 8am. The ice that hadn't been hacked off by the other parties was good for both axe and screw.
thecurlyone - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/10 with Dave Smith

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/10 with Al Pickard & Mike Dudley

bob johnson - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10 with Rich Ball, Bram

garythomas - AltLd - Jan/10 with John Elcock

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - Jan/10

TheAndyBarker - AltLd - Jan/10 with Jonny Herbert

BenTiffin - AltLd - Jan/10 with Andy Bissell

Patrick803 - AltLd - 2010 with Jeremy Windsor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Dave Murphy
davebrox - AltLd - 2010

tim20 - 2010

Led pitches 1 and 3.both in fairly lean conditions which made the route quite bold.Tried to hook rather than hack to prevent damage to the route.Had a bloody epic navving off from the top!
Trefo - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/09 with Paul Wood

lead the first pitch. Brilliant route
Kaiser999 - AltLd - 23/Dec/09 with Derek

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/09 with John Nesbitt

Hidden - Solo dnf - 19/Dec/09

Hidden - Lead - Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/09

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/09 with Paul V

paul.valentine - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/09 with Mark Dempsey

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/09 with margaret

Lallylandslider - 2nd - 10/Feb/09 with michael burrows

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/09

Great fun. Led p1
AJM - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Alec Corio, Tom Lambert

devilman - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Set off at 7pm. Perfect conditions and an excellent route.
ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/09 with Luke Farrar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/09

chrislycett87 - Feb/09

tumbling wizard - Feb/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/09

mynyddresident - Feb/09 with Mark C

AB1965 - AltLd - 12/Jan/09

Jillybean - AltLd - Jan/09 with Matt

rob1 - AltLd - Jan/09 with Tom Martin

feilx - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Floris & Mike

Luke Brooks - 2007

FrankW - Solo O/S - 20/Mar/06 with None

Great solo of this classic of the cwm. Not banked out so the main ice pitch was long and steep!
nicholas Barrowclough - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

bullybones - Solo - Mar/06

1st proper ice route, with mis matched walking axes and G10s! Fantastic chandaliers to right of bulge. Lead easy 3rd pitch.
philhilo - AltLd rpt - 19/Feb/06 with ken tranter

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - Lead O/S - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Tim W - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/05 with Myles Jordan

SteveM - AltLd - 05/Mar/05 with Keith

Led P2 & P4
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/05 with Ken T

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches, IV 3/1/3/2.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/05 with Diccon Proctor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/05

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/05 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd - 20/Feb/05 with Adam Booth

keith leonard - 2005

Superb conditions. Kai led the crux pitch brilliantly with massive cauliflowers of ice towering above!
Babika - AltLd - 01/Feb/04 with Kai Green

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Feb/04 with CBradley

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jan/97

Nick Biven - Lead - 10/Jan/97 with Duncan Nicol

NeilGriffiths - 31/Dec/96 with Duncs, Paul Tucker

Led 2nd pitch direct
John Marsland - AltLd - 09/Feb/86 with Paul Cook

ChrisJD - Solo - 1986

ChrisJD - Solo - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jan/85

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 18/Feb/79 with Ian Grace

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
StephenS, dr_botnik, CM1992, groovy_nut, jandyd05, fennerz, fennerz, MikeLell

Total votes cast 128
hard V0 of 46
V0 of 46
easy V1 of 46
hard IV20 of 46
IV24 of 46
easy IV1 of 46
hard III0 of 46
III0 of 46
easy III0 of 46
hard 60 of 42
60 of 42
easy 60 of 42
hard 52 of 42
57 of 42
easy 522 of 42
hard 411 of 42
40 of 42
easy 40 of 42
3 Stars34 of 40
2 Stars6 of 40
1 Star0 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat