UKC

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June 2023: some quarry infilling appears to be taking place. Future plans are not yet clear. As ever, remain polite.

1. The levelling has changed the foot of the climbs on a couple of sections by up to 2-3m, sometimes shortening and sometimes lengthening the climbing.

2. The Main and Pool area have been considerably shortened

3. There are sometimes piles of aggregate on the quarry floor, but these are only temporary.

 

There has been a significant rockfall that demolished Epicoff and Th'Way, leaving an interesting groove, which has not yet been climbed.

A locally important gritstone quarry is accessed by a public footpath from the Warland hamlet. Under the CROW act, the quarry is now open country. For many years the landowner and his son have been amenable to access by climbers. It is important that you show courtesy to the landowner and his son, whose houses you will pass as you walk up the footpath – this will ensure amicable access for future climbers. 

There is a pool at the bottom of the quarry, whose size fluctuates according to rainfall and is currently preventing access to the Pool Area and Green Wall. After you leave the public footpath, take care in your approach to the crag.

 

8m. The diagonal line leads leftwards to a little groove and a mantel to finish.

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Route of Interest
Central Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wilton 3)

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