|Alea Jacta Est||WI4|
|130m, 4 pitches. P1: 50m. 4+ left hand start 80-90 degrees for 20m up centre of ice then trend right to belay. You can divide this pitch in two by using an often in situ triple Abalakov and maillon belay station where the angle eases off. 3+ right hand start follows line of least resistance with steps of 80 degrees. Bolt belay on right.
P2: 20m. 3. Short pitch of 70 degree steps to bolt belay on right.
P3: 50m. 4+. Awkward step down and across onto thicker ice. After a short way, clip the bolt belay on the left as a runner (not a good belay or abseil station as it is in the line of fire). Fairly sustained with some short 85 degree sections. Uncomfortable belay with unobvious and hard to reach single bolt on right to be backed up with screws. Better to combine P3 and P4 with a 60m rope.
P4: 10m. 3+. Short sharp 80 degree section with comfortable bolt belay just above on the right.
Descent: Straight from P4 to P2 belay station. Then straight down to Abalakov belay station in the middle of P1. However, this is exposed to falling ice, so if there are climbers above you, you can instead swing right to the P1 belay station. |