50m.
This was the hardest route in the Scottish mountains at the time of its first ascent. Originally graded E4 6b with a pre-placed nut, it has had few ascents (far less than Dalriada, for example) and has since been upgraded first to E5, then E6. In fact, it might be E7 which, if so, would make it the first E7 in the UK. 1.5c. 20. Free climb the first pitch of The Nook to a belay in Punster's Crack. 2. 6b. 30m. Follow the line of The Nook to the large ledge where that route goes left. From the ledge climb up and rightwards to attack the severely overhanging thin crack in the headwall. This pitch packs a punch, with bouldery power-endurance climbing and good, but hard to place, protection.
Dave Cuthbertson and Rob Kerr 04/Jul/1979.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , My rock ticklist.
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Route of Interest
Tick Tock
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Glen Croe)