Eagle's Nest Ridge Direct*** MVS 4a
45m. Delightful, open and delicate climbing up the steep arete at the left end of the Dress Circle. Small wires have made all the difference to this once, very bold lead. Start directly below the arete.
Steep rocks with good holds are climbed, bearing right to a ledge overlooking the Dress Circle. Climb up and left to the arete, using two parallel cracks then step up to a small platform (The Eagle's Nest) followed by another platform (The Crow's Nest) after a further 5m. Delicate moves on sloping and polished holds are made from the platform onto the slab above, which leads to Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route (top of pitch 3).
GA Solly, WC Slingsby, GP Baker, WA Brigg Apr/1892

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain.

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This climb is in 150 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

55pete55 - 2nd - 19/Sep/15

Two very long pitches. Phil got the direct start, I got the diff finish. Walked to the top of Gable afterwards through Westmorland crag. Then back to Wasdale. A good day :)
deacondeacon - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15

the power - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with deacon

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/15

I led the long 1st pitch. Easy but run-out at the top, a great pitch.
Dave Mahon - AltLd - 23/May/15 with Justin Sharpe

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/15

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Aileen

runwildjohn - 2nd - 14/May/15 with Stu Howie

How easy - Lead - May/15 with John horton

Awesome! Good steady climbing, cruised through.
JackM92 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/15

steely - 2nd - 21/Mar/15 with luke armitage

Hidden - 2015

eilidh_m - 31/Aug/14 with Willie Milne

Mike Hood - Lead - 19/Aug/14

Hidden - 07/Aug/14

bpclarke - 07/Aug/14 with Paul Clarke

Tom led the direct pitch. Brilliant route, brilliant position.
Binder - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/14 with Tom S

scott quinn - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Tom Priestley

Nice positions, bit run out at the top but not too bad.
Tom.Priestley - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Scott Quinn

Em66 - Jun/14 with Mat

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/14

Adamski1986 - 2nd rpt - 17/May/14 with Stuart Bennett, Kerry Gutteridge

stub1990 - Lead - 17/May/14 with Adam Gregg

Hidden - 17/May/14

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 2014 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - 2nd - 2014 with tskelhon

Allanfairfechan - 2014

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Carol

Climbed in my new big boots to test them out. They made foot jamming in the crack very comfortable.
Carol Goodall - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Jonnie Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/13

Hidden - 20/Jul/13

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Kasha

kasha_gregson - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Bram

Total respect for first ascentionists of this VS in 1892! Wow!
Mark123 - 06/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Andy Chadwick - 2013

Hidden - 2013

colin smith - Lead - 21/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Ste Ridd - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with M.Sadler

A superb outing, one of the best pitches i've done up to now...
Sam Marks - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Matt Capsey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/12

Lead all the pitches for Zara. Started trending to right side of arete, might have been a little off-route. Ran it together to the top of the direct start. Took all day- Zara not on form, rope management problems, stuck behind others and even a long phone call from Dervey in Canada.
Beronj - Lead - 02/Jun/12 with Zara

Great climb and a fun finish up the upper ridge
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Zeb, Andrew Marshall

Hidden - May/12

Amazing line up the slabby arete - a must do at the grade!!
Woodiee - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with sam webb

Ian Hinkins - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

Tim M - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Emma

Amazing position! Think of the poor guys who put the route up - much easier to protect the sparse middle section with modern gear.
climbergg - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with cheesesarnie

Adamski1986 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Richard Gage

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/11

clint87 - 2nd - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/11

joscott - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Chris Smith

chris smith - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

yet another superb route
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with james pcc

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/11

ruaidh - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Jonah

jon59 - AltLd - 28/Apr/11

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

JakiBell - 2nd - Apr/11 with Nigel Jenkins

jon59 - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10

stimpey - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Pete, Davina

petegunn - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Davina & Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - 15/Aug/10

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Dave

andy jennings - AltLd O/S - 02/May/10 with Floris

tomthecoolperson - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Andrew

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Pete

An absolutely superb pitch. From the large ledge above the crux slab the best (and easiest) descent is to continue 10m up the Ordinary Route and ab off the large pinnacle onto the Dress Circle.
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 11/Apr/10 with Cath Sullivan

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

mic_b - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with James Blake

Shaw Brown - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Loz

GeorgeArmstrong - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Dave Scott

220bpm - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Dave

Jack Shepherd - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Luke Jones

Simonfarfaraway - 29/May/09 with Paul Gale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Zac Poulton

Orlov - Solo - 15/Apr/09 with Gaynor

Take the alternate 4c second pitch
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Andrew Leigh

DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Helen Garrett

Amazing route, on an amazing day!
Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Tom Hull

tomhull - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with martin davies

steve prior - Lead - Apr/09 with Roger C

Hidden - Solo - 20/Mar/09

Bob - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/08

perfectlynormalbeast - 2nd O/S - Jun/08 with Stuart Fox

John Dale - Lead - 25/May/08 with Andy Railton

A stunning climb
jonny taylor - Lead O/S - 17/May/08 with James

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 17/May/08

Great. But probably worth abbing off after the first pitch as the Diff finish is a little disappointing.
Jimmy O - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08 with Jonny Taylor

ioboy - Lead - 05/May/08 with Pete Holland

tomhull - AltLd - May/08 with adam noble

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Oct/07

Date approx
Topsy Turvy - Sep/07 with Dan Hattle

Quite bold on 1st pitch
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Ben D

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 26/May/07 with Nick Eaton

Dave Wearing - 2nd - 14/Apr/07 with Rocket.

Rob Rocket - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Dave Wearing

Tom Phillips - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with julian

Hidden - 2007

innesmac - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/06

stewart murray - 2006

Hidden - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/05

platt2000 - Lead - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/04

kickaha4 - 2nd - 22/May/04 with Karl Rowe

Ben lad - 2000 with briff, The Wallace

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/99

plain kitten - Lead - Jul/98

Neil Conway - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/96 with Steve Hardy

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/96

kevp - AltLd O/S - Aug/95 with Mike Vogler

biggianthead - 21/Jun/95 with C

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/94

suspect date
Raggar - AltLd - 27/Jun/92 with Chris B

Mick King - Lead - 17/May/92 with Steve Brodie

I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Apr/92 with Debbie Wilkinson

John Southworth - AltLd - Apr/90

DaveHo - Lead O/S - 1990

babymoac - Lead - 04/May/89 with Howard

Hidden - Lead - 1984

John Marsland - Lead - 29/Jun/83 with Mark Cohen

ill_bill - Lead - Aug/82 with Martin Bown

Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/82

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 1982

MikeDowsett - AltLd - 1982 with Andy Lynch

Hidden - Lead - Aug/75

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/75

Hidden - 1967

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 92
hard VS0 of 33
VS7 of 33
easy VS22 of 33
hard MVS0 of 33
MVS0 of 33
easy MVS1 of 33
hard HS3 of 33
HS0 of 33
easy HS0 of 33
hard 4b0 of 30
4b3 of 30
easy 4b25 of 30
hard 4a1 of 30
4a1 of 30
easy 4a0 of 30
hard 3c0 of 30
3c0 of 30
easy 3c0 of 30
3 Stars22 of 29
2 Stars6 of 29
1 Star1 of 29
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