craigaj.ace - 2nd - 17/Apr/14 with James
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Alan
Did it correctly this time - traverse to the crack on the left between the second and third bolt. Makes this a pretty decent route and 6a+ seems about right actually.
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14 with Caleb
On peter's advice i opted to traverse the face and layback the crack. Couple of nice moves and avoids the muddy right arete.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Peter
stretch323i - TR dog - 2014
Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Dec/13
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/13 with Greg Clarke, Clare
gregclarke - TR dog - 10/Nov/13 with Clare, Brian
buzzball101 - Lead - Sep/13
Crawled my way up it using hands, feet, knees, teeth and quite a bit of cheating. Definitely harder than 6a+.
jayyaj - Lead dog - 20/Aug/13 with Alex Herbert
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/13
mikedevcole - Lead RP - 24/Jul/13
mikedevcole - TR - 20/Jul/13
petellis - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Sloth
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13
rbalmer - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with Lindsay Worthy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13
wae76 - TR dog - 06/May/13 with Waynec59
chris687 - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/13 with Jo Sumner
harryjenner - Lead - 01/Mar/13
lakeyross - Lead - 12/Jan/13
slugger5uk - Lead - 2013
patrickc - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Sue
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 01/Dec/12 with Ivan
Interesting first couple of moves to access the enticing looking slab, but then unless you climb considerably harder than the given grade you are forced to either head for the grotty arete on the right or the vegetated crack on the left. Not as good as it looks. I took the arete, my second the crack.
The Ivanator - Lead - 01/Dec/12 with Alan
layback off right arete
evhall - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with goat
mallardhealhook - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12
KDW - Lead dog - 13/Oct/12 with Andy
really fun bouldery start, the rest of it is still quite hard but pretty crappy - the bolts are in the blank wall on the left, most of the climbing I did was on the right-hand arete or even sometimes grabbing a hold in the somewhat dirty crack to the right of it (couldn't have done it without at approximately F6a+ in the upper part). Reading older descriptions, I might have missed that traverse to the left arete, guidebook description might be a bit misleading here...
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12
Hidden - TR dog - 29/Sep/12
Tricky to get over the bulges!
cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Aileen Robertson
will_benfold - Lead β - 29/Sep/12 with Tor Nockles
mallardhealhook - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12
Mark Salter - Lead β - 19/Jul/12 with Gareth Lewis
kept off the arete until after the 3rd clip. V tricky - esp as not totally dry.
hms - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with the family
Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 04/Jun/12
afrosam - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12
davis.pete - Lead RP - 11/Mar/12 with Ana Heureux, Michele Paulatto
michpaulatto - Lead β - 11/Mar/12 with Pete Davis
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Jan/12
evilweed - 15/Jan/12 with Sara Currie
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
pad-rat - 2012
Found this hard, lost balance and grabbed qd
jon_ridley - Lead dog - 30/Sep/11 with Jess Marengo
Bede - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/11 with Mark Cunnington
Tried the "right of the bolts, left of the arete" as per the description. Start's straightforward if a bit athletic; if the rest of the climb was as fun it'd be worth a star.
Between the second and third bolt I wussed out and moved onto the arete. Gaining the belay station even using the RH arete was very touch-and-go nursing a damaged left hand - but I don't think it'd have been easier with everything at 100%. Having read some of the other descriptions I might have another crack at this including the traverse left after the third bolt.
(I've climbed easier things rated at 6b, but give this "hard 6a+" - no danger of popping off at any point.)
WRT the reachy clips: yes, they really are! I'm 5'7" and could get them, but it involved going a lot higher onto marginal stuff to get the QDs in.
jang - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Nic
xcomm - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11
aged_ape - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with IH
the reaches to the clips were long, I got to the last one following a mate who had but in quickdraws but again couldn't clip it straight as just a few millimetres short :-(
jimecallaw - Lead dog - 27/May/11 with Adam, Danny
Danhan - Lead - 22/May/11 with Gav
This is hard, climbed direct untill forced onto the right Arete high up but things didn't ease here. Easily 6b and clipping is very spicy for a 5',6" climber
SGD - Lead - 28/Feb/11 with Jonny WMC
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 29/Jan/11 with Clare
wildrover220 - TR β - 24/Oct/10 with Niall Lusby
I stayed on right arete the whole way up and found it hard for grade also with very reachy clips - luckily Nick (6ft3in) had already put them in
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Nick
Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Feb/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10
simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/10 with Luke Spiers, Tom Jewel
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/10
jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Peter and Paul
Ed Westwood - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/09 with Robyn Cassidy
Hard start then staying on the arete keeps the holds coming, but strangely bolted if that's the line.
DrGav - Lead RP - 04/Oct/09 with Wendy
Quite hard for the grade. Opinions seem to vary as to the line. I started directly under the bolts, made a move up the wall to clip the second bolt, then moved right and used some layaways off the arete.
bpmclimb - Lead RP - 20/Sep/09 with Clare
Right .. I reckon I know the way up this one.
Start on the right hand side of the climb, clip first bolt, move up staying right of the bolt line and using the good holds on the face and arete until you can clip the second and third bolts.
Now traverse left (the crux) to the left hand arete and climb to the lower off.
Even using both aretes like this it's a hard 6a+ route.
You could start on the left of the line of bolts and climb straight up but then you'd miss out on the moves on the right.
This time I started on the right, clipped the first and second bolts, went right onto the good holds, clipped third bolt and traversed left to the left arete and up to the lower off.
Dax - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Ward
Doable but hard for 6a+ assuming you climb up the bolt line and not the easier sides.
Philip de-Beger - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09
Fluffybunnyslippers - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/08 with Tim
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08
Sam W - Lead - 27/Jul/08 with Tom Bide
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead β - 12/Jul/08
Good, fun start but then the trouble kicks in after the first bolt. First thing: all of the bolts are very reachy to clip (and I'm 6ft tall). Second point: after the last bolt you need something from the arete cos the wall becomes blank .. unfortunately I couldn't see what it was giving .. so took a big ol' swinger. To get my gear back I heaved myself to the last bolt and used the left arete to make it to the belay station. I reckon this is one very confused route .. either the route description is wrong or it's sandbag? Be interested to hear how others climbed it. P.s. I "removed" some of the loose stuff just right of the arete - oops.
Dax - Lead dog - 19/Jun/08 with Adrian Bates
the rec - TR β - 19/Jun/08 with Darrell
Not sure how this route is meant to be done. The description mentions the arÍte but we weren't sure which arete. We ended up starting up the right arete and then doing a VERY delicate traverse at the 3rd bolt level across to the left arete.
Adrian Bates - 2nd - 19/Jun/08 with Ward
DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Christian
guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 28/Jan/08
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam
Didn't fancy the final moves - very blank up the slab, and loose stuff nearer the arete.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 22/Nov/07 with Mark