|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Adam Sage, Ross Stephenson
Sabrina Motzkus, Gabrielle Bignell, Ben Cole
Fannied about working the start out, rested 5 minutes then smashed it.
|rhys mence||07/Mar||Lead O/S|
Straight up the arete - good but 6b at least!
Did it correctly this time - traverse to the crack on the left between the second and third bolt. Makes this a pretty decent route and 6a+ seems about right actually.
On peter's advice i opted to traverse the face and layback the crack. Couple of nice moves and avoids the muddy right arete.
Greg Clarke, Clare
Crawled my way up it using hands, feet, knees, teeth and quite a bit of cheating. Definitely harder than 6a+.
Interesting first couple of moves to access the enticing looking slab, but then unless you climb considerably harder than the given grade you are forced to either head for the grotty arete on the right or the vegetated crack on the left. Not as good as it looks. I took the arete, my second the crack.
really fun bouldery start, the rest of it is still quite hard but pretty crappy - the bolts are in the blank wall on the left, most of the climbing I did was on the right-hand arete or even sometimes grabbing a hold in the somewhat dirty crack to the right of it (couldn't have done it without at approximately F6a+ in the upper part). Reading older descriptions, I might have missed that traverse to the left arete, guidebook description might be a bit misleading here...
Tricky to get over the bulges!
|Mark Salter||19/Jul/12||Lead β||
Found this hard, lost balance and grabbed qd
Tried the "right of the bolts, left of the arete" as per the description. Start's straightforward if a bit athletic; if the rest of the climb was as fun it'd be worth a star. Between the second and third bolt I wussed out and moved onto the arete. Gaining the belay station even using the RH arete was very touch-and-go nursing a damaged left hand - but I don't think it'd have been easier with everything at 100%. Having read some of the other descriptions I might have another crack at this including the traverse left after the third bolt. (I've climbed easier things rated at 6b, but give this "hard 6a+" - no danger of popping off at any point.) WRT the reachy clips: yes, they really are! I'm 5'7" and could get them, but it involved going a lot higher onto marginal stuff to get the QDs in.
the reaches to the clips were long, I got to the last one following a mate who had but in quickdraws but again couldn't clip it straight as just a few millimetres short :-(
This is hard, climbed direct untill forced onto the right Arete high up but things didn't ease here. Easily 6b and clipping is very spicy for a 5',6" climber
I stayed on right arete the whole way up and found it hard for grade also with very reachy clips - luckily Nick (6ft3in) had already put them in
Luke Spiers, Tom Jewel
Peter and Paul
|Ed Westwood||10/Dec/09||Lead O/S||
Hard start then staying on the arete keeps the holds coming, but strangely bolted if that's the line.
Quite hard for the grade. Opinions seem to vary as to the line. I started directly under the bolts, made a move up the wall to clip the second bolt, then moved right and used some layaways off the arete.
Right .. I reckon I know the way up this one.
|Philip de-Beger||07/Mar/09||Lead O/S||
Doable but hard for 6a+ assuming you climb up the bolt line and not the easier sides.
Good, fun start but then the trouble kicks in after the first bolt. First thing: all of the bolts are very reachy to clip (and I'm 6ft tall). Second point: after the last bolt you need something from the arete cos the wall becomes blank .. unfortunately I couldn't see what it was giving .. so took a big ol' swinger. To get my gear back I heaved myself to the last bolt and used the left arete to make it to the belay station. I reckon this is one very confused route .. either the route description is wrong or it's sandbag? Be interested to hear how others climbed it. P.s. I "removed" some of the loose stuff just right of the arete - oops.
|the rec||19/Jun/08||TR β|
Not sure how this route is meant to be done. The description mentions the arÍte but we weren't sure which arete. We ended up starting up the right arete and then doing a VERY delicate traverse at the 3rd bolt level across to the left arete.
|guy xavier percival||28/Jan/08||Solo O/S|
Didn't fancy the final moves - very blank up the slab, and loose stuff nearer the arete.