Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
The centre of the huge roof via the prominent diagonal crack-line. This is gained via a traverse in from the left with the crux at the very lip. Abseil descent from here is now the best option since the second pitch (which is 6a) has ivy growing on it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious line throught the roof right of Durbin 2. Most of the gear is in situ, but a thorough cleaning is required to return it to classic status. The second pitch is rarely done and most abseil off after the lip to avoid the vegetation. Gain the hanging corner right of Durbin Two, Watson Nil from the right and follow it to the roof, PR. Traverse right to gain a crack leading out to the lip. Gain this, PR, and in situ nuts to make a long move to gain the lip (good Friend). Turn the lip, BR and pull up easily to a slight niche and belay or ab off. The second pitch takes the groove above past several PRs.
P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 1pt 26.06.1983
Martin Crocker Roy Thomas 14/Jun/1988.
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Logged Ascents
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The Sistine Ceiling
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)