Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
A direct line with a hard sequence to leave Spain at mid-height. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just just right of Harlem. Climb to the roof and a tree stump, then make oddball moves through the roof, TR and BR, to a slippery arete, BR. Gain Spain at the TRs, good rest. Pull into the groove of Spain, then swing left round the arete (crux) level with a ring bolt. If successful gain good holds and a BR. It may be advisable to lower off the last BR rather than climb the unstable (but easy) upper section to the TB.
Gary Gibson, Roy Thomas 12/May/1991.
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Smashed Rat
Grade: 7c ***
(Dinas Rock)