UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
Another old trad line up the flake has been much changed and is probably harder than the grade assigned. Reported to be loose. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow the corner left of Draper's Henchmen until the crack it contains blanks out. Move left and follow the flake to the top.

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 1
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Finale Groove

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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