The Mau Mau*** E4 6a
[Matt Cousins celebrates his flash of The Mau Mau, 2 kb]22m.

Rockfax Description
Seriously strenuous climbing. Start at the dog-leg crack. The crack is easy to the ledge at 10m, after which it is much harder and sustained. Eventually you are forced out onto the wall on the left. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the bow shaped crack. Now the hard bit - step back left to go up the remainder of the crack to finally get to good holds.

P Williams 20/May/1986

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, a State of Slate, Ian's Slate E4's for 2014, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Matt Cousins celebrates his flash of The Mau Mau © Mark Alderson
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 178 logbooks, and on 70 wishlists.

breed - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/15

Awesome line there is loads of gear but very strenuous to place. A few 6a moves & hell'a pumpy climbing, the whole wall is slightly over vertical when you look from the other side......very well protected deserves e4 6a
scott quinn - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Tom Priestley

Out of sequence + pumpy, will return for the lead.
Tom.Priestley - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/14 with Scott Quinn

What a mare haha! Haven't climbed slate for ages and hadn't warmed up. Abbed to get stuck gear after, then dropped the head torch too.
mynyddresident - Lead - 22/Sep/14 with KP

Good to settle an old grudge. Great route!
dswansonlow - Lead RP - 30/Jul/14 with Andrew Cherry

Dan Vaj - 2nd dog - 13/Jul/14 with Khalid, James Machaffie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14

A brilliant line. I'm quite disappointed to have fallen off it but one day I will lead it clean.
khalidq - 2nd dog - 13/Jul/14 with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic

Good job there's holds out left...I hate laybacking
wi11 - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Owen Samuels

duncandarnell - Lead dog - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/14

mes32 - 2nd - 27/May/14 with Wilki

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

First 'proper' E4.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with James Moneypenny

Maseballs.. Crux lower than expected, more rests, more crimps, less laybacking, less pumpy. Worth the wait
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Alexis

John Gale - 2nd dog - 03/May/14

Kazza91 - Lead - May/14

Hidden - TR dnf - Apr/14

Don't care if everyone says this is an easy touch E4 - Seconded it clean! Woop woop! Excellent lead by Mark.
Jelly - 2nd O/S - Apr/14

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/13

Went past good nut runner on the upper section, which scrambled my mind when i had to place small cams, down climbed back throue the crux to place the wire, this blue the onsite for me, gutted:-( must chill out:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 22/Sep/13

Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/13

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/13 with bwestwood

Tough escape route
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/13 with Rich

Had top roped it in the 90's with Tunny and then took a fall near the top, got it next go.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 12/Jul/13

Stefan_Morris - Lead β - 06/Jul/13 with jenny

Jen 'Banksy' Banks - 2nd β - 06/Jul/13 with StefanMorris

tim newton - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with stuart lade

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with alice thompson

Alice Thompson - Lead β - 15/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson

Simon Allcock - 2nd O/S - 30/May/13 with Mary, Wilki

mes32 - 2nd - 29/May/13 with Simon Allcock, Wilki

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

Thought this was E3 5c when I led it felt much harder today!
Dangerous Dave - 2nd rpt - 23/May/13 with Russ Birkett

Not sure if this is E4.... very well protected, just a building pump.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave Ogden

Russell Birkett - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave Cowan

miastacey - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Bob Smith

dswansonlow - Lead dog - 30/Apr/13 with Darren McMaster

shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Seymore Butt - 2013

soph - Lead - 23/Sep/12 with Ben Tibbetts, jon morgan

Awesome route, very slippery moves, nervous about pigging off near the top.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Andy

Good lead. What will he be capable of when he gets psyched? ; )
Ed Babs - 2nd β - 04/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12

Dibdawg - Lead dog - 01/Sep/12 with Dean Merchant

Bennykr - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Alex mason

After blowing it on the lead, i managed it on second, one to come back too.
Dean177 - 2nd RP - Aug/12 with Alan Dibben

Dean177 - Lead dnf - Aug/12 with Alan Dibben

ksjs - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/12 with owen

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jul/12

Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Andy Benson

Lovely. Not any harder than Stroll On or Quasar(E3 6a), but without the 6a. E3 5c.
zero six - Lead O/S - May/12

Owain Llewelyn - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/12 with Gareth E

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/12

NickHarms - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

AndrewJamesCherry - 2nd - 2012

Heather had a go and lowered off from halfway then I raced up it before it got dark. A rock 5 is now possibly in-situ just after the resting ledge...
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 03/Aug/11 with Steve

Jen Crook - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/11 with Rob Patchett

First E4 and proudest lead to date!
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with ben peake

Eetu - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Olli

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 25/Jun/11 with Dylan Williams, Andy Woolston

williamsd79 - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/11 with Mark Freestone, Andy Woolston

awesome route.
centurion05 - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/11

Good route but E3 5c
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Wild Beast

Tom Livingstone - Lead β - 01/Jun/11 with Heather Florence

On my own gear this time. felt harder even though i found the crimps this time.
willoates - Lead rpt - 25/May/11 with Dan Butler

harder for short and if you have sausage fingers too then good luck. took a fall onto a half-in small insitu cam which held.
dan ely - Lead dog - 12/Apr/11 with greg kane, jason

barni - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/11 with Liam fleming

clean hooray
Liam FLeming - Lead - 21/Mar/11 with barni

cold, 2 rests
ksjs - TR dog - 20/Feb/11 with Matt

Marti999 - TR O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Dave

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

So close! This went well till I barn-doored off the top crack after missing the holds out left. Nasty upside down fall with my leg behind the rope. Pretty sure if I'd seen the holds it would have been in the bag. Gutted. Thanks to the chaps who gave me a tope rope to finish it off!
petellis - Lead dog - 16/Oct/10 with Cleric James Koran

ian caton - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/10 with Abi

mux - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with frost

frost - 2nd β - 22/Aug/10 with D Garry

gforce - Lead - 18/Aug/10 with Kath

first e4, got to go and onsight one now...
david morse - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/10 with owain

lead it after david on his gear, although bi think i could have placed it my self, got to go back and find out now.
willoates - Lead β - 13/Jul/10 with david morse

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Jul/10

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Jonnie Stocking

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with LukeW

was really nice climbing on good holds. low E4/E3
samrad - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with james G

Used motly Sam's gear. Great climb. Glad to get it done. Much easier this time as I didn't try and layback the whole top section. Brilliant!
farmus21 - Lead RP - 10/Jun/10 with Sam Radcliffe

London Luke - 2nd O/S - Jun/10

harvie - Lead - 31/May/10

morganator - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Ross Hewitt, Andy Houseman

RachelP - 2nd - 20/May/10 with Geth, Jamie

barni - 2nd rpt - 17/May/10 with luke, Sam

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 17/May/10 with Barni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/May/10

Pleased to get up this as a warm up - thought it would be despearte to repeat - can't be going that bad then Matt!
mattyork2 - TR - 03/May/10 with John Vincent

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Feb/10

vinspin - 2nd dnf - 2010 with owen jones

Jus - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09 with Will Boxen

billb - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Jus

Liam FLeming - 2nd - 05/Aug/09 with glyn

Glyn - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/09 with Liam Fleming

Ows - 2nd - Jul/09

nige - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/09 with ewan mccallum

benchwarmer - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/09 with Owen Barnicott

barni - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09 with Ewan

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/09 with Ben Alsford

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/09 with Tom Ripley

hans solo - Jan/09

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dave Morse

A great last trad route to seal up the year. Fantastic, somewhat technical climbing I thought. 600th route! A really nice day out too.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/08 with Ally Smith and Emily Goodman

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Dec/08

rained off / wimped off upper crack.
lukea - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/08 with felix

Previously 2nded on 13.05.08
Brown - Lead β - 13/Sep/08 with Henry

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/08 with woody

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jul/08

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with sophie wilmes

sonnenstern - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Will Malcolm

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08

kieranrex - Lead O/S - 19/May/08

barni - Lead - 22/Apr/08 with Si

Hidden - Lead - Feb/08

good gear, classic crack climb.
mr mills - Lead rpt - Feb/08 with ioan d

jeffmcd56 - Lead β - 2008 with Rob

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with reeve

awesome route, comes at you at just when you think you cant go any further theres huge jugs out on the wall!! tricky moves leaving the ledge.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Aug/07

First E4! Not as gnarly as i expected and there is a decent rest on the top bit to put in gear.
Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Gareth

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/07 with gareth

that was an effort! totally brilliant, bit of an arm-melter peering into the crack to place gear (friends a definite advantage here but you can get great large nuts in). loved the bit where i wanted to stop but couldnt as that would have meant a fall so i had no choice but to continue :) perfect trad!
ksjs - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07 with goosebump

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Joe Bawden

Dringo - 2007

doable first section then it gets hard well hard!
fran04 - TR - 2007 with ian rowell

Bern - Jun/06

lx - Lead O/S - May/06

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Easiest E4 slate tick around
nicholas Barrowclough - 2nd - 07/Jul/04 with Mark

Gus - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

spidey - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

Mark Riley - TR O/S - Sep/00

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1999

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/98 with mik

slip slip slippy
Si Clapham - 2nd - 1998 with Alun Richardson

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/97

Ched - TR - 1997

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/96

Totally overgraded.
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/95 with Matt Hirst

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 03/Apr/95 with Martin Reynard

photo somewhere
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - Jan/95 with Alan Holden

adi bryant - Lead O/S - Jun/94 with Ollie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

mark-abz - TR - 21/Aug/93 with Simon K

jamiev - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/93 with Adrian Berry

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/92 with Paul Tanton

channinga - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/91

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 26/May/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90

Billg - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/90 with Jon Barton

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/89

Mike Owen - 03/Jul/88 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 2nd - 1988

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/Aug/87 with Andrew Jackson

sadams - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/87 with Guy Townsend

Paul Clarke - 2nd - 1987 with Paul Greenland

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Total votes cast 125
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