The Dark Half*** 8a
[The Dark Half, 2 kb]18m.

Rockfax Description
One of the most popular of the 8a routes in the quarries, and rightly so. The correct sequence of shapes, grunts and ferocious pulls will lead you to the lower-off. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Start right of 'Green Ernie' up the line of bolts. Desparate but good.

N Harms 01/Dec/1990

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Classic UK F7s, Top class slate sport 7b-8a, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 8's & 9, Slate Sport.

Photo: The Dark Half © david morse
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Wooo hooo! 1st go to put clips in.Came down with elbows crippled by tendonitis. Knew I only had one more go. 2nd go with brand new unbroken shoes, smashed it!
dswansonlow - Lead RP - 08/Jun/15

Fully on redpoint now. 1st go - foot slipped from crux, 2nd go - foot not right on crux 3rd go - foot slipped on crux 4th go - rained off mid-crux, took clips out 5th go - clips back in but foot wasn't right on crux
dswansonlow - Lead dog - 06/Jun/15 with Darren McMaster

Managed the inital layback sequence and the rockover. Couldn't do the crux moves this time (either way)....
shed_hed - Lead dog - 06/Jun/15 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Managed to go from the big rock over and get to the rest after the crux in one go. Got two possible methods of doing crux, both equally hard but different, need to decide which one I like best! Tricky, tricky, tricky but happy to have got somewhere on it.
shed_hed - TR dog - 10/Sep/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Been over a year since I last tried but still couldn't do any of the moves without a bit of rope assistance.
shed_hed - TR dog - 03/Sep/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Finally got around to having another go on this. Just as cool as I remember. I go it from just off the floor to the post-crux jug. So I need to get back to send it!
dswansonlow - TR dog - 03/Sep/14 with TC, Darren McMaster

I have pretty much all the moves sussed now but am a long way from having the power to link them all. Amazing route. So much fun!
dswansonlow - TR dog - 25/Jun/13 with Darren McMaster

Couldn't do the moves like Dougie...need more power!
shed_hed - TR dog - 25/Jun/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

ksjs - Lead dog - 01/May/13 with jo

ksjs - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13 with Joe C

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Jul/12

NickHarms - 2012

Awesome! Good session on it the other day then 2 redpoints today. First 8a! (its 8a in the new guide, I'm taking it!)
Luke Brooks - Lead RP - 23/Nov/11

Amazing, can't quite believe it. Such awesome moves. Got it 2nd rpt after 3 days spread over two years figuring out moves on toprope. My first 8a..I'm taking the latest grade consensus in the new guide! New shoes made a big difference. Finding the right sequence is the key
Glyn - Lead RP - 20/Nov/11 with Iona, Luke

New shoe is the key
barni - Lead RP - 08/Mar/11 with andy Psyche

barni - Lead dog - 05/Mar/11 with andy Psyche

ksjs - TR dog - 02/Mar/11 with Matt

from start to move just before jug
barni - TR dog - 22/Feb/11 with Cal

can do all move first time just need to get FIT
barni - Lead dog - 20/Feb/11 with Glyn

2 gos, cold and new shoes needed. all moves done cept move to triangular block. bit of a masterpiece really
ksjs - TR dog - 20/Feb/11 with Matt

clean to crux , done crux
barni - Lead dog - 18/Feb/11 with andy Psyche, Glyn

can do all move and linked upto the cruxs. gd hold pretty much all the way just powerful
barni - 2nd dog - 10/Feb/11 with Liam fleming

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

tough, 2 gos: managed to do all moves up to crux and that felt like a result! addictive puzzle. will be back...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/10 with phil

dav - Lead RP - 12/May/10 with Gill B

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jul/09

Hidden - 2003

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dan724, MischaHY, UnkArl, dswansonlow, Mike Goldthorp, samrad

Total votes cast 20
hard 8a+0 of 11
8a+0 of 11
easy 8a+0 of 11
hard 8a0 of 11
8a0 of 11
easy 8a9 of 11
hard 7c+2 of 11
7c+0 of 11
easy 7c+0 of 11
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
Clean RP