Amazing route. Having never climbed abpve VS I was surprised by the grades listed on here. If you ignore the fall potential the climbing is not above a VS/HS standard and even allowing for the 'seriousness' of the climbing I cannot comprehend how it can be above a HVS (it is in old guide books)as: a) we never noticed a crux and had been falling of F6a the day before b) we finnished in the rain c) it's a shallow slab... . As an asside it is very hollow sounding and may be hiding large quantities of Nazi gold....Sam Husband - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ed
Definitely NOT an E1 or a 5b, found the route quite easy though great fun. Probably warrants a higher grade as it is such a serious undertaking. Took us 5hrs to complete and quite a horrible down climb. Great great fun though
Edward Hastrop - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Sam Husband
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12
Climbed first six pitches before abbing off due to weather closing in. Excellent climb.
Jim Brownlow - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
Don't believe the scaremongering, plenty of bolts and straightforward climbing. Epic route!
tombushell - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with John Bushell, Sam Husband, Ed Hastrop
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Sep/11
Brilliant climbing on small holds. Lead pitches 1,2, 9, and 11. It is run out but the friction was amazing never felt I was likely to peel off. decent is very steep and loose, but is protected by a chain handrail. Take your trainers.
The Mountain Goat - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Dom Sellers
A great climb, run out enough to make you think (10m ish between bolts) but never too much of a horror. Avoid if poor afternoon forecast as loads of big stones at the top ready to come down.
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Jon Miles
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/11
claregardiner - AltLd - 14/Sep/10
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 06/Aug/10 with Dad
run out but not too bad
John Roberts (JR) - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/09 with guy wilson
Didn't start till mid-afternoon. Earlier that day abandoned plans for route on Pyramide du Tacul as it was overcrowded, walked across Vallee Blanche, caught Helbronner back to Midi, came back down to campsite in Argentiere and drove round to Switzerland! Hot day and thought we'd fry on such an exposed piece of rock, but actually came into shade quite quickly. Superb bold climbing with some lovely technical slab work. Descent relatively straightforward now. Quite a long day!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Rob
Hidden - 25/Aug/08
The most run out climb I've ever done! Horribly placed bolts all around 10m+ apart and appearing generally AFTER the crux moves. French 6a in several spots. A shame abut the pro, since the climb itself was quite fun and highly recommended... as a follower!
Brian Birtle - AltLd RP - 15/Jul/08
Very serious with big fall potential. Not one to push the grade on.
Tobias at Home - AltLd dog - 15/Jul/08
shaun walby - AltLd - Jul/08 with Kev Groome
An excellent adventure. Didn't take a trad rack and had trouble finding bolts, sometimes only a single bolt found in 40m or so.
On pitch two a falling rock fell onto my leg resulting in a great deal of blood oozing from me. We decided to continue on, using a tourniquet to stop the blood squirting onto the rock everytime I lifted my leg.
Made good time and enjoyed the waterfall that slowly but surely makes things more and more interesting.
An adventure for sure, coming back to the car with dark black dried blood covered jeans made for quite a story with the rest of the people we were climbing with.
Silum - Aug/06 with Jamie Hill
Hidden - Sep/04
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/94 with Conor Boyd
alkira - 04/Aug/93 with bruce goodlad, harvey mullen
Hidden - Jul/89
mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/88 with Andy W
Scary, big run outs, descent was teriffying ..oh to still be young and fit!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tony Kartawick - Lead O/S - Aug/86 with Jan Kartawick
Hammy - AltLd - 22/Jul/85 with Colin Struthers, Jenny le Merle
Bad weather in the mountains took us here to find a mini glacier at the bottom and a waterfall down the line of the route. We climbed a line right of the normal route - but as this was totally unprotected we effectively soloed roped together. Only after several death-defying rope lengths did we make it back to the true line for a few wet belays whilst climbing up the technically more difficult left side of the route. Went too high and missed the path down. Back to the car at 11pm in the dark to guzzle our only available sustenance for the whole day - a jar of pickled cabbage vinegar! Very memorable day.
KRB - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/80 with Mike Bridges
Back then no bolts or gear. Just belay rings/bolts/pegs. No holds either. Easy angle. Desparate descent to r.
Rope was too short between stances on one pitch so we had to 'move together' and not just the bowels either.
jmr - AltLd - Jul/77 with An unknown 16-year old
Pleasant climb, then protected by a few in situ pegs, the rest bt small wires
Lesdavmor - 10/Aug/76 with Grace Morris, Steve & Bronwen Blake