Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
Technical and balancy climbing in the mid-section, starting from an undercut in the overlap on the right of the arete itself. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the face immediately right of the arete up to a good left hold at the base of the bulge. Lay back the left hand side of the bulge to the slab above and finish as for Not The Arete.
Ticklists
Bristol area road to 7b , 7As with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 26 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First time I used crack on the right. which I think is wrong as too far right for 7a+. This cannot be in? For emphasis I have looked at the route diagram and suggest that up to the proud jug for the right hand the crack can be used, but once past this its out of bounds. Thats my thought as it defo is stiffer and requires a set sequence and to pull hard on crimps when going left for bolt clipping. Hopefully this is right? Next attempts worked out a techy sequence and pulled like dammit to gain greater height. Paul was laughing his head off at my 'talking to'. I think this route will go. Great day out anyways. Not bad for a late November - warm, dry and no wind. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: First time I used crack on the right. which I think is wrong as too far right for 7a+. This cannot be in? For emphasis I have looked at the route diagram and suggest that up to the proud jug for the right hand the crack can be used, but once past this its out of bounds. Thats my thought as it defo is stiffer and requires a set sequence and to pull hard on crimps when going left for bolt clipping. Hopefully this is right? Next attempts worked out a techy sequence and pulled like dammit to gain greater height. Paul was laughing his head off at my 'talking to'. I think this route will go. Great day out anyways. Not bad for a late November - warm, dry and no wind. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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