Via Kasnapoff*** V+
250m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb which, although not offering particularly striking situations, provides excellent climbing on predominantly good rock. There are numerous variations, some of which suggest a possible ascent at IV+, but it is worth being confident at upper grade V to find the best climbing following the line of highest quality rock. Reasonably well-pegged with equipped stances, but perhaps less fixed gear than on other classic mid-grade routes.
Start beneath the memorial plaque to Hans Plank.
1) IV-, 35m. Follow a rising rightwards diagonal line up a natural weakness to a large ledge just left of the arete to a 2-peg stance and a spike.
2) IV, 50m. Step right on good rock towards the arete. From the arete, climb direct, with a number of variations, to reach a 3-peg belay 5m left of arete.
3) IV, 40m. Step 3m right then climb a chimney with an awkward move to enter it, then after 12m follow a vegetated rocky ramp to a 2-peg stance.
4) V, 35m. Climb up for a few metres to a peg then traverse right on good rock (thread) to a stance by a yellow shattered niche.
4a) IV, 35m. Alternatively, carry on direct up the vegetated crack (often wet but easier) then traverse more easily right, thus avoiding the bulge of the next pitch.
5) V+, 30m. From the niche, move up and right to a peg and pull through a bulge on a hidden side-pull, then move right for 1m onto the arete. Climb a shallow corner-crack - smooth and tricky at first then easier - and continue to easier ground and a stance on a large grassy ledge.
6) V, 45m. There are several variations here. Either traverse 4m right to a shattered chimney and climb this, angling back towards the arete for 45m to a niche.
6a) VI-, Alternatively, go direct from the stance to a flake and climb this (harder but excellent climbing), which is bold but protectable with micro-cams, then continue in the same line just left of the arete on a series of well-worn pockets, to reach a white corner. Climb this to a stance in a niche.
6b) IV+, It is also possible to move further right around the arete then climb direct (easier but on less-solid rock).
7) V-, 40m. Follow the white rock right (ignoring tat that tempts you to move left) passing a mini-arete to reach the main arete. Climb direct through a bulge then continue with excellent climbing to a stance 1m left of the main arete.
8) IV-, 40m. Continue up the arete on nice pockets to a grassy ledge (intermediate belay at 15m) then continue diagonally left up a crack, trending left up a chimney to reach a terrace below the summit.
9) II, 50m. Follow the path left along the terrace to reach a notch between the second and third Sella Towers, then double back right to scramble to the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A lot of variations exist. Good days outing.
(250m, 9 pitches up to V+, or 300m, 11 pitches up to IV+, depending on guidebook)


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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 30 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

james1978 - AltLd - Sep/14 with pam

ian d f - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with Angus, Marion

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

burto - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with ferdia

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Burton

Climbed this early in the morning before the rain. I led the odd pitches, including the crux.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Stevo

Worth taking double ropes as some long wandering pitches. Although lots of options all on fairly similar grade. Picks up on the slab by yellow overhang, and a hidden piton. The crux on the next pitch is short, and the fun continues. P2,4,5,7,9
Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/13 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - AltLd - Aug/13 with Robin Brooke

CurlyStevo - AltLd - Aug/13 with Kirill S

Good route, as suggested seems like lots of possible variations...
jezb1 - AltLd - 27/Jul/12

Steep and juggy, fun climbing except when I took the wrong start to pitch 5 ...resulting in a terrifying 5b rockover move on horror choss. "Thanks" to the thoughtful person who placed the peg that led me that way! & sorry to the parties below as I couldn't help dislodging a stone or two ...honestly couldn't breathe without bits falling off!
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Jez

Second big route with Jack. We had intended to try the Messner route (VI) but was soaking wet and after a pitch decided it was wrong time of season to do it. one to do later. So moved to this V+ route. Got stuck behind a slow team so instead of doing the route completely as described we did a few alternative variations on some pitches, we think this made it slightly harder but more enjoyable. Great feeling at the top!
hlegge - AltLd O/S - Jun/12 with Jack Hodgson

P1,3,6,8
zach.stone - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Peter Hill

theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Zach Stone

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Harry

Kopo - Aug/09 with Emmi

Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with James McDowall

4.20 hrs
Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/08

paul79 - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

jcj - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/07

chris wyatt - 2007

abbed off after pitch 5. Didn't know the time and thought it was getting late. Had plenty of time in the end
WB - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06 with Guy

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Steptoe

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/00 with RGraves

tjekel - 1987

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/73 with TRE

eroica64 - AltLd - Jul/71 with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett

Seymore Butt - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Campbell42, ssstrick, Alex Munnery, zach.stone

Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard VI-0 of 4
VI-0 of 4
easy VI-0 of 4
hard V+0 of 4
V+2 of 4
easy V+2 of 4
hard V0 of 4
V0 of 4
easy V0 of 4
3 Stars1 of 4
2 Stars3 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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