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Under Milk Wood VS 4a

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[Climbing or Caving?  Diane picks an interesting choice for her first ever VS lead.  'Under Milk Wood' at 3 Cliffs Bay, Gower, 3 kb]21m. Starts at the inset slab on the right under the arch. Climb to the roof and move left to gain the slab on the other side (crux) then diagonally up to the chimney/hole. Wriggle upwards to the final tight squeeze out into the daylight.
R.McElligott, R.Hoare 1984

Ticklists: The troglodyte squeeze specials, Through Routes!.

Photo: Climbing or Caving? Diane picks an interesting choice for her first ever VS lead. 'Under Milk Wood' at 3 Cliffs Bay, Gower © Stephen Bartle
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 134 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Took my ever first lead fall at the overhang but had already clipped the thread. Proceeded to take an ungodly amount of time to get through the tunnel, fitting required dumping gear and copious amounts of "encouragement" from sam and gen. Not really enjoyable.
Keelan McNulty - Lead dog - 28/Sep/14 with Callum Jepps

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Linus Whitmarsh

It was a squeeze, David and Elli were fine.
steve2006 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with david moore

This should have at least 2 stars just for the originality/ banterous nature of it, thought it was pretty tight even by caving standards.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Martin Bazley

Mike Hood - Lead - 07/Aug/14 with Cora

cmjones2 - 2nd - 07/Aug/14 with Mike

Hilarious climb! Unfortunately laughing so much hurt once stuck...
stujamac - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Jenny Yate

However skinny you are, your bum WILL look big in this.
JClimb - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Stuart MacLachlin

4a? Not really - thought the overhang should be worth 4b? Was close to giving up on the squeeze, but onlookers from above sucessfully provided encouragement. Fun? Not sure.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Mike

Couldn't get out of the upper section, tried a few options, just got stuck.
Mayaculpa - 2nd dnf - 14/Jun/14 with Peter

Amazing :P
andrewmcleod - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Chris Sergent, Rosa Williams, David Amundsen

Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) - 2nd β - 14/Jun/14 with Bernard Stricker

Steve Bartle - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/14

silviac - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Jamie Trump

So much fun! Don't believe the hype, cave is spacious if you take minimal gear :)
Jamiet297 - Lead β - 17/May/14 with Silvia Candia

What a squeeze!
helen.baldwin - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

Took several goes to get through first part of cave, resulting in bruised chest and damaged t-shirt. John managed to get through after several goes. Sam didn't make it so was lowered.
Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with John Sheenam, Sam Bugller

Laughed as I bruised through, finally. Breath in and your tightly wedged; breath out and you're still tightly wedged!
John Sheehan - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Neil Rigiani

Cheekie Selfie in the tunnel!
Sutherland J - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Huw Mithan, Helen Baldwin

Last climb of the day, tide coming in to add a bit of pressure, a few tense moments in the squeeze. A very fine caving climb!
LovelyMrTom - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Joe

VS 4B in selected rock climbs guide. First half was good, it then got damp, then it got very very tight! And I mean very tight! 32" waist medium build with no rack on my harness and I only just got through!
BStar - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Phil?

Henry Brown - Lead - 03/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

partz - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Rhi Rhi - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Matt

mrobinson81568 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14

Jo sumner - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with Chris Andrews

chris687 - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with Jo Sumner

Dylantl - 2nd rpt - Apr/14

DaveFidler - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

edjenkins - Lead - 05/Oct/13

couldn't fit though, no matter which way I turned myself!
Dr Toph - Solo dnf - 10/Sep/13

Real struggle to control claustrophobia. Took helmet off and felt much better.
stonemikey - Lead - 01/Sep/13 with Mark Ward

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13

David Walker - 2nd dnf - 22/Jun/13 with James Carpenter

James led but didn't fit through the squeeze so lowered off. I seconded up to the threads and then led from there. Very tight squeeze, with a fair amount of guano, but good fun nonetheless. Jon seconded as the only person willing and able to follow!
MariaT - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Jonathan Whiting, James Carpenter, David Walker

whiting.jp - 2nd - 22/Jun/13 with MariaT

JamesBurton - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Corinne, Alistair Everett

Nigel R Lewis - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Christian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

partz - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Tom Dudley

Alex Wade - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Zeanne Thomas

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Mar/13

pearson9596 - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with James Cowley

The cave is a squash!
JHC - Lead - 24/Feb/13

mauricechetwyndwoods1 - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Leo Grabowski

clarky_two - 2013

justaddpowder - Lead - 2013

Huw Mithan - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Hannah Scott, Olivier Goury

maddy92 - Lead - 22/Sep/12

ejohnson - 2nd - 22/Sep/12

Hannahjscott - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Huw Mithan

i.fish2000 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12

ejohnson - 2nd - 20/Sep/12

lloyd - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12

was wet, found the gear, left it there incase someone needed to ab off if they don't fit...
Matthew Edwards - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/12 with Dave Sperring

davesperring - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Matthew Edwards

Hidden - Solo - 22/Jul/12

toriwest - Jul/12

partz - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12 with Ed

Managed to do it a lot quicker this time, was bone dry, finally done it clean!
Matthew Edwards - Lead rpt - 27/May/12 with Matt Everett

Couldn't squeeze my rib cage through the tunnel entrance, so sacrificed gear and lowered off. :( Also, did the crux move onto the overhang with only a couple of dodgy wires below me - couldn't find the thread (which I'm sure used to be a really obvious bit of conglomerate at the overhang) - has it fallen off or am I going blind?
Steve Hill - Lead dnf - 27/May/12 with Melinda Hill, Liz Corcoran

twodada - Lead - 20/May/12 with Paul O-T

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12

:)
Pete Randall - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with John H

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/12

Strictly speaking this is a repeat, but it must be more than 20 years since I last did it. I didn't recognise the start point, and the tunnel was narrower and longer than anything I remember. It's a route with great character, I'm delighted that the new guidebook has given it a star and I love the extra detail and biting humour of the updated description. For the record - I'm never doing this route again, ever. It reminded me of why I never got into caving.
Sarah Welsh - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Emma Grant

Ana Broad - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Sarah Welsh, Emma

Well, led until the squeeze but was too fat to get through so lowered off
steveprice.exmouth - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Eike Mueller

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Mar/12

wont forget this anytime soon. had to move my gear around my harness a bit, but got through in the end
steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Ana Broad - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11

Alex Wade - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Gregory Jones

Nickfoulds - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11

Rick Ashton - Lead - 27/Aug/11 with Fiona Dalton

Tighter and longer than I was expecting - don't take loads of gear!
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Ali

I am not a big person but it was a squeeze.
steve2006 - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with david moore(13)

Ali - 2nd - Aug/11 with Karl

josh1905 - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - 2011

SianR - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Cora & Simon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

at the thread, couldn't work out where to go, and got tired so rested there, cntinued up, hard getting through the narrow part at the start of the cave, spent an age moving an inch at a time, fun, would like to do it again! Hopefully when a bit dryer!
Matthew Edwards - Lead dog - 21/May/10 with Matt Everett

partz - 2nd O/S - 21/May/10 with Ed

Climbed the wet slab alright, got into the cave alright, got stuck. Load of rubbish.
JamieGreig - Lead dnf - 21/May/10

eclipse - Lead dog - 15/May/10 with David Beynon

Couldn't get my shoulders through the tunnel at the top, so I was forced to retreat.
davidbeynon - 2nd dnf - 15/May/10 with Tim

With a bit of an audience below! Initial slab is straightforward with good gear. Tricky move is getting into the cave, which again is well protected. Great route overall
TomWebber - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Hannah Buckland

tdudley - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Tom Webber

mattshort - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Tash

Brilliant climb, makes Lockwood's Chimney and Avernus seem spacious!
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Jeff Escosio, Craig Shelley

Hidden - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/09

Steve Hill - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Hywel Edwards

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Steve Hill

dave657 - 2nd rpt - 10/May/09 with Alys

Ewan Richards - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Owen

owenrhyswilliams - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Ewan, Gareth Protheroe

An amazing route
Browny - Lead dog - 01/Feb/09

jbutler - Lead O/S - 2009

summo - 2009

Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Conor

Woohooo! This is the best route I've ever done! Really good fun VS with interesting overhang as you head up into the blackness! Excellent gear - superb threads!First bit of the tunnel is the narrowest - I got someone to lower a rope to haul up the excess gear, chalk bag etc. Quite a long session of wriggling before I broke through to daylight again.
SianR - Lead - 20/Jul/08 with Tara

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/08

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/07

jon clayton - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with cherry

Fantastic route (if you're thin enough!). New guide gives it VS 4a. Move over the overlap is a bit tricky for 4a I think though. First VS, maybe given because of the dire consequences of getting stuck in the tunnel!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with Pete D

Hidden - Lead - Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/06

irish paul - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Mel,Mike,ffitch

best route on the crag!
dave657 - Lead O/S - Oct/04

Alan thought he was too big to fit through the hole, I just thought it was too manky, so we backed off
Howard J - 2nd dnf - 30/May/04 with Alan Kemp

Climbed to the entrance, assessed, downclimbed, ditched the harness and gear and went with a sling-harness, re-climbed to the entrance and did the worm until back in the sunlight. Adventurous and very cosy. 3*.
Will Gordon - Lead O/S - May/02 with Rob Gleeson

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/02 with Roy Thomas

Gilgar - Lead O/S - 1999 with Andy Freem

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/98

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/98

NeilGriffiths - 01/May/93

turl - 1992

don't carry a big rack - you will get stuck !
andrewlegg - Lead O/S - 1988

Removed harness and pushed it in front of me to exit hole.
RichardMc - Lead O/S - 1984 with Rupert Hoare

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andrewmcleod, cdpuk, beakerburgess, JonnyW, Hidden, Hidden, mloskot, Hidden, dansmonkeytroubles, Danhan, eclipse, tdudley, Andy White, Thomas L, Simon Caldwell

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard HVS0 of 24
HVS0 of 24
easy HVS0 of 24
hard VS0 of 24
VS9 of 24
easy VS10 of 24
hard HS5 of 24
HS0 of 24
easy HS0 of 24
hard 4b0 of 17
4b7 of 17
easy 4b5 of 17
hard 4a1 of 17
4a4 of 17
easy 4a0 of 17
hard 3c0 of 17
3c0 of 17
easy 3c0 of 17
3 Stars14 of 24
2 Stars5 of 24
1 Star2 of 24
0 Stars2 of 24
Bag of .....1 of 24
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 134 (3.7%)
Lead76 of 134 (56.7%)
Followed44 of 134 (32.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 134 (0.7%)
Unknown8 of 134 (6.0%)

'Climbed'41 of 134 (30.6%)
clean O/S70 of 134 (52.2%)
clean β3 of 134 (2.2%)
clean rpt8 of 134 (6.0%)
dogged4 of 134 (3.0%)
dnf8 of 134 (6.0%)