Swansea > Three Cliffs Bay >
Under Milk Wood VS 4a

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[david(13) about to head squeeze into the cave., 2 kb]21m. Starts at the inset slab on the right under the arch. Climb to the roof and move left to gain the slab on the other side (crux) then diagonally up to the chimney/hole. Wriggle upwards to the final tight squeeze out into the daylight.
R.McElligott, R.Hoare 1984

Ticklists: The troglodyte squeeze specials, Through Routes!.

Photo: david(13) about to head squeeze into the cave. © steve2006
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This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Jo sumner - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with Chris Andrews

Dylantl - 2nd rpt - Apr/14

DaveFidler - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

couldn't fit though, no matter which way I turned myself!
Dr Toph - Solo dnf - 10/Sep/13

Real struggle to control claustrophobia. Took helmet off and felt much better.
stonemikey - Lead - 01/Sep/13 with Mark Ward

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13

David Walker - 2nd dnf - 22/Jun/13 with James Carpenter

James led but didn't fit through the squeeze so lowered off. I seconded up to the threads and then led from there. Very tight squeeze, with a fair amount of guano, but good fun nonetheless. Jon seconded as the only person willing and able to follow!
MariaT - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Jonathan Whiting, James Carpenter, David Walker

whiting.jp - 2nd - 22/Jun/13 with MariaT

JamesBurton - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Corinne, Alistair Everett

Nigel R Lewis - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Christian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

partz - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Tom Dudley

Alex Wade - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Zeanne Thomas

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Mar/13

pearson9596 - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with James Cowley

The cave is a squash!
JHC - Lead - 24/Feb/13

mauricechetwyndwoods1 - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Leo Grabowski

clarky_two - 2013

justaddpowder - Lead - 2013

Huw Mithan - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Hannah Scott, Olivier Goury

maddy92 - Lead - 22/Sep/12

ejohnson - 2nd - 22/Sep/12

Hannahjscott - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Huw Mithan

i.fish2000 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12

ejohnson - 2nd - 20/Sep/12

lloyd - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12

was wet, found the gear, left it there incase someone needed to ab off if they don't fit...
Matthew Edwards - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/12 with Dave Sperring

davesperring - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Matthew Edwards

Hidden - Solo - 22/Jul/12

partz - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12 with Ed

Managed to do it a lot quicker this time, was bone dry, finally done it clean!
Matthew Edwards - Lead rpt - 27/May/12 with Matt Everett

Couldn't squeeze my rib cage through the tunnel entrance, so sacrificed gear and lowered off. :( Also, did the crux move onto the overhang with only a couple of dodgy wires below me - couldn't find the thread (which I'm sure used to be a really obvious bit of conglomerate at the overhang) - has it fallen off or am I going blind?
Steve Hill - Lead dnf - 27/May/12 with Melinda Morrell, Liz Corcoran

twodada - Lead - 20/May/12 with Paul O-T

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12

Pete Randall - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with John H

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/12

Strictly speaking this is a repeat, but it must be more than 20 years since I last did it. I didn't recognise the start point, and the tunnel was narrower and longer than anything I remember. It's a route with great character, I'm delighted that the new guidebook has given it a star and I love the extra detail and biting humour of the updated description. For the record - I'm never doing this route again, ever. It reminded me of why I never got into caving.
Sarah Welsh - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Emma Grant

Ana Broad - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Sarah Welsh, Emma

Well, led until the squeeze but was too fat to get through so lowered off
steveprice.exmouth - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Eike Mueller

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Mar/12

wont forget this anytime soon. had to move my gear around my harness a bit, but got through in the end
steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Ana Broad - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11

Alex Wade - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Gregory Jones

Nickfoulds - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11

Rick Ashton - Lead - 27/Aug/11 with Fiona Dalton

Tighter and longer than I was expecting - don't take loads of gear!
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Ali

I am not a big person but it was a squeeze.
steve2006 - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with david moore(13)

Ali - 2nd - Aug/11 with Karl

josh1905 - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - 2011

SianR - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Cora & Simon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

at the thread, couldn't work out where to go, and got tired so rested there, cntinued up, hard getting through the narrow part at the start of the cave, spent an age moving an inch at a time, fun, would like to do it again! Hopefully when a bit dryer!
Matthew Edwards - Lead dog - 21/May/10 with Matt Everett

partz - 2nd O/S - 21/May/10 with Ed

Climbed the wet slab alright, got into the cave alright, got stuck. Load of rubbish.
JamieGreig - Lead dnf - 21/May/10

eclipse - Lead dog - 15/May/10 with David Beynon

Couldn't get my shoulders through the tunnel at the top, so I was forced to retreat.
davidbeynon - 2nd dnf - 15/May/10 with Tim

With a bit of an audience below! Initial slab is straightforward with good gear. Tricky move is getting into the cave, which again is well protected. Great route overall
TomWebber - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Hannah Buckland

tdudley - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Tom Webber

mattshort - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Tash

Brilliant climb, makes Lockwood's Chimney and Avernus seem spacious!
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Jeff Escosio, Craig Shelley

mrfeebus - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/09

Steve Hill - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Hywel Edwards

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Steve Hill

dave657 - 2nd rpt - 10/May/09 with Alys

Ewan Richards - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Owen

owenrhyswilliams - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Ewan, Gareth Protheroe

An amazing route
Browny - Lead dog - 01/Feb/09

jbutler - Lead O/S - 2009

summo - 2009

Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Conor

Woohooo! This is the best route I've ever done! Really good fun VS with interesting overhang as you head up into the blackness! Excellent gear - superb threads!First bit of the tunnel is the narrowest - I got someone to lower a rope to haul up the excess gear, chalk bag etc. Quite a long session of wriggling before I broke through to daylight again.
SianR - Lead - 20/Jul/08 with Tara

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/08

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/07

jon clayton - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with cherry

Fantastic route (if you're thin enough!). New guide gives it VS 4a. Move over the overlap is a bit tricky for 4a I think though. First VS, maybe given because of the dire consequences of getting stuck in the tunnel!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with Pete D

Easy climbing did it in a hell of a wind
atthedropofahat - TR - 02/Aug/06 with Jason

Hidden - Lead - Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/06

irish paul - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Mel,Mike,ffitch

best route on the crag!
dave657 - Lead O/S - Oct/04

Alan thought he was too big to fit through the hole, I just thought it was too manky, so we backed off
Howard J - 2nd dnf - 30/May/04 with Alan Kemp

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - May/02 with Rob Gleeson

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/02 with Roy Thomas

Gilgar - Lead O/S - 1999 with Andy Freem

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/98

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/98

NeilGriffiths - 01/May/93

turl - 1992

don't carry a big rack - you will get stuck !
andrewlegg - Lead O/S - 1988

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jamiet297, andrewmcleod, cdpuk, beakerburgess, JonnyW, Diane, Hidden, mloskot, Hidden, dansmonkeytroubles, Danhan, eclipse, tdudley, Andy White, Thomas L, Simon Caldwell

Total votes cast 39
hard HVS0 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard VS0 of 16
VS6 of 16
easy VS5 of 16
hard HS5 of 16
HS0 of 16
easy HS0 of 16
hard 4b0 of 9
4b1 of 9
easy 4b3 of 9
hard 4a1 of 9
4a4 of 9
easy 4a0 of 9
hard 3c0 of 9
3c0 of 9
easy 3c0 of 9
3 Stars8 of 14
2 Stars4 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars2 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 103 (3.9%)
Lead59 of 103 (57.3%)
Followed31 of 103 (30.1%)
Toproped1 of 103 (1.0%)
Alt Leads1 of 103 (1.0%)
Unknown7 of 103 (6.8%)

'Climbed'34 of 103 (33.0%)
clean O/S50 of 103 (48.5%)
clean β1 of 103 (1.0%)
clean rpt8 of 103 (7.8%)
dogged3 of 103 (2.9%)
dnf7 of 103 (6.8%)