A very sustained and imposing line that weaves its way up the wall left of the corner of Il Duce. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.1) 5a, 35m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner.2) 5c, 20m. From the left end of the ledge, follow a chimney/groove through the overhangs until it pinches out. Climb diagonally rightwards to a narrow ledge, then move back up and left to a ledge and belay.3) 5c, 20m. Climb up rightwards on compact rock, heading for the prominent overlap. Follow this until it closes, and make tricky moves up to a ledge. Follow this rightwards, past an overlap to a belay.4) 5a, 10m. The corner above leads to a bulge, where moves on the bulging rib to the right gain ledges leading rightwards to a stance on Il Duce.5) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Serious! don't rely on the peg mentioned in the North Cornwall guide, its so rotten you would'nt hang your coat on it!