The direct line up the left facing chimney/groove on the right side of the front face of Central Buttress.

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter, Top Mid-Grade Scottish Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
guy757 04/Mar -
Andy Moles 27/Feb Lead O/S

Moving together

with Calum Muskett
TheFatClimber 12/Feb/15 2nd
andymcronald 11/Feb/15 2nd

With Louisa Reynolds, Abacus Mountaineering and Ritchie Slessor. Abseiled 60m down into Easy Gully from Plateau, then traversed around to the foot of Typhoon. Great conditions although some bulging ice and tricky sections. Usually graded IV, Guide believed it was more like grade V. Bear Grylls was also filming near easy gully for National Geographic.

Hidden 04/Jan/15 AltLd dnf
Dougbart 04/Jan/15 AltLd dnf

Abbed of after second pitch, gully not complete and very thin ice. Good climbing though

with Iain
bandersnatch ??/2015 -
with Mairi B
Palindrome 30/Dec/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/14 Lead O/S
magik_bob 04/Feb/14 2nd
mikedelderfield 17/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Felt pretty hard. Buried, with thin poor ice underneath. A fantastic day tho.

ste_d 17/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with mik
adie84 ??/2013 -
Hidden 10/Feb/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 10/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Liam FLeming 03/Feb/12 -
guy757 27/Jan/12 Lead

Lean and Tricky

Hidden 27/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Ken Applegate 17/Feb/11 Lead

Great route! Good protection on the right wall, with the odd patch of good ice for screws. Crux was good fun!

with Jorge, Fabien
akhughes 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S

did whist working. good climbing never hard and good belays. Took an hour or so.

colenn 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Peter Britton
bridget143 01/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Did this in 4 pitches, Matt led slabby P1, James chimney, buldge to belay P2 then James again P3 up corner to base of snowy top out P4.

with Matt Freear, James Yip
jamestheyip 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Record for late start. 3:15 at first pitch. Climbed mostly in the dark. Good mixed climbing with well protected crux. Should have use 60m ropes would have saved 1 pitch.

with Matt Freear, Bridget Hall
Hidden ??/2011 -
luckyjim ??/2011 AltLd
with tom ballard
Spongebob 31/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Misha 03/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

The route was thawing but still climbable, though the ice and neve were getting dodgy in places. Tom did P1 on ice that sounded worryingly hollow. I got the mixed P2, which was meant to have been followed by a steep ice pitch but instead there was more mixed ground. In the end did a 40 metre pitch to just below the end of the difficulties, belaying on a fairly steep section as I had run out of quickdraws and slings by that stage and couldn't see any belay points higher up. There were several cruxy sections, probably made harder by the conditions. Certainly good 5 but probably only IV as generally well protected by rock gear. Tom finished off on easy ground. Had to leg it down to the gondola station.

with Tom
John Carney 11/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Unevenly iced slabs and difficult chimney/groove leading to a steep but more thickly iced corner with good protection in the rock. Third pitch is the crux, climbable this time via the LH groove, and made more difficult by spindrift pouring down. A splendid tough West Coast classic!

with Rob Jarvis
lost.arrow 14/Feb/10 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
alan wilson ?/Jan/09 Lead

1 screw at middle of steep overhanging corner bit, no cornice.

with n smith
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 24/Mar/08 Lead
DavidBarraclough ?/Mar/07 -
Hidden ?/Feb/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd
Dave Almond ??/1999 AltLd

Introduction to Mark`s rack, 2 wires only!

with Mark Edwards
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
joe hallam, Gazlynn, Hidden, Hidden, Debbie Lee, iksander, mmmhumous, Adamski1986, lou_rankine, Hidden, Hidden, Dustin, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, Watty
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 8
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set