Typhoon*** IV 4
[Coiling the rope on Aonach Mor, 2 kb]The direct line up the left facing chimney/groove on the right side of the front face of Central Buttress.

Photo: Coiling the rope on Aonach Mor © alan wilson
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

magik_bob - 2nd - 04/Feb/14

Felt pretty hard. Buried, with thin poor ice underneath. A fantastic day tho.
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/13 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/13 with mik

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 10/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead - 10/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Feb/12

Liam FLeming - 03/Feb/12

Lean and Tricky
guy757 - Lead - 27/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jan/12

Great route! Good protection on the right wall, with the odd patch of good ice for screws. Crux was good fun!
Ken Applegate - Lead - 17/Feb/11 with Jorge, Fabien

did whist working. good climbing never hard and good belays. Took an hour or so.
akhughes - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

colenn - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Peter Britton

Did this in 4 pitches, Matt led slabby P1, James chimney, buldge to belay P2 then James again P3 up corner to base of snowy top out P4.
bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with Matt Freear, James Yip

Record for late start. 3:15 at first pitch. Climbed mostly in the dark. Good mixed climbing with well protected crux. Should have use 60m ropes would have saved 1 pitch.
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with Matt Freear, Bridget Hall

Hidden - 2011

luckyjim - AltLd - 2011 with tom ballard

Owen1984 - 2nd O/S - 31/Dec/10

The route was thawing but still climbable, though the ice and neve were getting dodgy in places. Tom did P1 on ice that sounded worryingly hollow. I got the mixed P2, which was meant to have been followed by a steep ice pitch but instead there was more mixed ground. In the end did a 40 metre pitch to just below the end of the difficulties, belaying on a fairly steep section as I had run out of quickdraws and slings by that stage and couldn't see any belay points higher up. There were several cruxy sections, probably made harder by the conditions. Certainly good 5 but probably only IV as generally well protected by rock gear. Tom finished off on easy ground. Had to leg it down to the gondola station.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/10 with Tom

Unevenly iced slabs and difficult chimney/groove leading to a steep but more thickly iced corner with good protection in the rock. Third pitch is the crux, climbable this time via the LH groove, and made more difficult by spindrift pouring down. A splendid tough West Coast classic!
John Carney - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/10 with Rob Jarvis

1 screw at middle of steep overhanging corner bit, no cornice.
alan wilson - Lead - Jan/09 with n smith

Hidden - 2nd - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/00

Hidden - AltLd - 2000

Introduction to Mark`s rack, 2 wires only!
Dave Almond - AltLd - 1999 with Mark Edwards

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adamski1986, lou_rankine, Dustin, andybuckley, Watty

Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard V0 of 6
V0 of 6
easy V1 of 6
hard IV3 of 6
IV1 of 6
easy IV1 of 6
hard III0 of 6
III0 of 6
easy III0 of 6
hard 50 of 6
50 of 6
easy 55 of 6
hard 40 of 6
41 of 6
easy 40 of 6
hard 30 of 6
30 of 6
easy 30 of 6
3 Stars4 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star1 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
dnf