Cornwall > Tintagel Head >
 
King's Arete** E5 5c

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The Republican Start (to King's Arete) >>
Steep climbing in great positions on Il Duce's right arete. The climbing becomes easier but the rock deteriorates in quality as height is gained. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seaward below the gearing-up spot.. 1) 5a, 10m. Traverse left and take a belay on a protruding ledge.. 2) 5c, 40m. Climb straight up to a small ledge at 7m using positive holds but with minimal gear. Move diagonally left to the arete and ascend it to a narrow ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge (possible belay) then diagonally back left to the arete again. Follow this to a short steep crack on the right which leads to a belay in a niche.. 3) 5b, 30m. Climb steeply on good holds to the right then move back left towards the arete and continue up to reach an easy traverse-line (junction with Il Duce). Follow this rightwards to a fault-line that leads up to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

This felt extremely serious - a fall by the leader on pitch 3 could easily result in belay failure and death in the foaming Atlantic below. It is given E3 in the guide but I would have no quarrel with XS or E5.
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 17/Feb/04 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Aug/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexjz

Voting
Total votes cast 2
hard E60 of 1
E60 of 1
easy E60 of 1
hard E50 of 1
E51 of 1
easy E50 of 1
hard E40 of 1
E40 of 1
easy E40 of 1
hard 6a0 of 1
6a0 of 1
easy 6a0 of 1
hard 5c0 of 1
5c1 of 1
easy 5c0 of 1
hard 5b0 of 1
5b0 of 1
easy 5b0 of 1
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