King's Arete** E4 5c
[Looking down P1 of King's Arete., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Steep climbing in great positions on Il Duce's right arete. The climbing becomes easier but the rock deteriorates in quality as height is gained. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seaward below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 10m. Traverse left and take a belay on a protruding ledge.
2) 5c, 40m. Climb straight up to a small ledge at 7m using positive holds but with minimal gear. Move diagonally left to the arete and ascend it to a narrow ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge (possible belay) then diagonally back left to the arete again. Follow this to a short steep crack on the right which leads to a belay in a niche.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb steeply on good holds to the right then move back left towards the arete and continue up to reach an easy traverse-line (junction with Il Duce). Follow this rightwards to a fault-line that leads up to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: Looking down P1 of King's Arete. © Mike Waters
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This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

This felt extremely serious - a fall by the leader on pitch 3 could easily result in belay failure and death in the foaming Atlantic below. It is given E3 in the guide but I would have no quarrel with XS or E5.
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 17/Feb/04 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Aug/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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hard E50 of 1
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